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S60 D5 2005 paper fuel filter change - leaking

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Old Jan 6th, 2018, 19:27   #11
GrahamBrown1
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Ignore me, I’ve found my old thread and the PU823x is the correct filter. The VW one I refered to is the pu820 which ecp gave me. The top of this filter didn’t press nicely into the housing as it should. I gave up with non gen ones after this and just bought volvo ones.

Appologies for the confusion.
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Old Jan 6th, 2018, 19:35   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McGandalf View Post
Isn't that the oil filter?

I hope it is - as I put a Mann HU 719/8x in my oil filter housing earlier this afternoon!

Correct! Did I mention that I get my pension next month. Senior moment.
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Old Jan 6th, 2018, 19:37   #13
McGandalf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrahamBrown1 View Post
Ignore me, I’ve found my old thread and the PU823x is the correct filter. The VW one I refered to is the pu820 which ecp gave me. The top of this filter didn’t press nicely into the housing as it should. I gave up with non gen ones after this and just bought volvo ones.

Appologies for the confusion.
No worries - it is the PU823X I've been using, and it does say Volvo (not VW) on the side. I actually read your previous thread when prepping for this job, so I made doubly sure I was buying the right one.
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Old Jan 6th, 2018, 21:48   #14
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The large o-ring seal needs to be carefully placed into its groove. If you roll it over the threads, you run the risk of twisting it. If this happens, the seal is unlikely to work. It needs to be 'square' in its groove.

Afterwards, run some additional diesel or engine oil around the seal and the housing threads. Not much is needed. If the plastic housing or cover is leaking at all, there's something wrong. Hairline cracks on the type of plastic in question can be difficult to spot, and can cause bad leaks as well as a non-starting situation. When tightening the cover back up, there will come a point where it will stop and go no further. Do not force it past this point. Then make sure to prime the system properly before cranking.

From recollection, the original fuel filter is made by Purflux, and it just pops into place on the housing. It should sit there without any drama once it's fitted.
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Old Jan 7th, 2018, 14:21   #15
Leyburn
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I use silicone to lubricate the plastic threads. Hand tight and no more. Mine probably needs changing again, it's done 50k miles
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Old Jan 7th, 2018, 14:49   #16
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Should the top of the cup be absolutely flush against the bottom lip of the housing? Or should there be a small gap where the cup hits the o-ring?

Is anyone able to take a photo of the finished example?

I tighten the cup up as far as it will reasonably go and then the threads seem to give up.
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Old Jan 7th, 2018, 15:08   #17
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Here's an ebay number for a new one. Type it into ebay and have a look to see exactly how it's meant to sit

321873965916
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Old Jan 7th, 2018, 16:06   #18
McGandalf
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Just had breakdown assist out and they managed to get the car running. I run the car 100 yards down the road, red light comes on the dashboard saying 'Engine System Service Urgent' and the engine cuts out.

The car won't fire up without a battery pack held against the terminals and the recovery driver squirting break cleaner into the airbox (?).

Plugged the car into VIDA and I get the following error codes:
ECM-2503 Fuel pressure - too low pressure
ECM-2505 Fuel pressure - too low pressure

Any thoughts?

(I'm not messing with the fuel filter again!!!)
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Old Jan 7th, 2018, 17:04   #19
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It has to be fuel filter related. Never spray brake cleaner/easystart or similar into the intake of a diesel. You could quickly end up with bent conrods. Also letting the fuel supply to the engine run out can damage the high pressure pump. The new large o-ring is obviously not sealing around the housing, or there's a crack in the housing/cup that's allowing air into the fuel system.
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Old Jan 7th, 2018, 17:32   #20
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Thanks. I'm admitting defeat and I'll let my friendly local garage look at it tomorrow AM.

Slightly alarmed about the brake cleaner in the air inlet now…! (Recovery driver's suggestion, not mine).
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