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Fuel filter

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Old Mar 22nd, 2024, 07:34   #11
Gazdkw
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Going to do this today,

What is the socket size for the housing?

What's the torque for the housing and drain plug?

For priming, do you just leave in position 2 or do you keep turning it off and back to position 2? I have read conflicting information.

Once you have drained the fuel? Do you put it back somehow?
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Old Mar 22nd, 2024, 09:53   #12
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This isn't happening today. I can't get a socket and wrench on the housing. I have tried bending it but I still csnt get onto it and I don't want to force it and break it creating a much bigger problem.

I will grab one of those removal tools
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Old Mar 22nd, 2024, 10:18   #13
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The rear rollbar gets in the way. It can be done with a socket and wrench, but you need extensions and possibly a swivel socket. I found a ring spanner works just as well, but you aren’t going to find a spanner that big in a standard socket set. I think its 32mm if I recall.

You don’t need to add fuel to the new filter. Press and hold the start switch with your foot off the brake to prime the filter. You’ll hear the pump activate and fuel flowing into the new filter. Do it a few times before you start. Remember not to put your foot on the brake.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2024, 10:49   #14
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A 32mm offset spanner should do the job

offset.jpg
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Old Mar 22nd, 2024, 10:54   #15
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Yep, one of those should do the trick.

Make sure you put a new sealing ring in the housing of the filter. Your new filter should come with one.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2024, 11:44   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazdkw View Post

For priming, do you just leave in position 2 or do you keep turning it off and back to position 2? I have read conflicting information.

Once you have drained the fuel? Do you put it back somehow?
For priming switch it onto position 2 for a few seconds, then off, and repeat 3-4 times. The fuel pump will only run for a few seconds each time you do this. You should hear it and you should hear it change pitch once it is actually pushing fuel all the way to the front

I would discard any fuel that you drain, as it will be dirty, it's not a huge amount.

When removing the fuel filter lid, if you have a 4 wheel drive model, you wont actually be able to fully remove the lid without squashing it by 1-2mm. It might not seem possible as it is quite hard plastic, but you can squash it with your hand just enough for it to be fully removed
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Old Mar 22nd, 2024, 13:49   #17
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The problem with a spanner is you cannot tighten to the correct torque? I think I do have a 32mm spanner but the torque issue put me off
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Old Mar 22nd, 2024, 14:07   #18
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Quote:
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The problem with a spanner is you cannot tighten to the correct torque? I think I do have a 32mm spanner but the torque issue put me off
It'll be obvious when its tight. When the housing stops turning as you screw it into place by hand, just give it a little "nip" with the spanner and that's it. You don't want to go too crazy tightening, as you could crack the plastic housing and "pinch" the rubber seal.

I've never seen anyone use a torque wrench on the fuel filter. I've never used on on the fuel filter either and never had an issue.

Prime the filter before you start the engine (as explained above), then start the engine and get back underneath to check for leaks. If no leaks, you're good to go.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2024, 21:53   #19
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I bought the special tool for the fuel filter from Ebay for a good price not the genuine volvo one but good quality and it definitely made the job a lot easier it's for a 3/8 socket link here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265740896...mis&media=COPY
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Old Mar 23rd, 2024, 08:31   #20
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It only needs to be nipped tight it’s the seal that does the sealing not how tight it is. They seal themselves on over time anyhow and you want to be able to get it off easily next time
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