Removing doors

[Billy Smalls]

Hi
I need to take off all my doors soon, as I’m having the outer sills replaced. The Haynes manual says you need to undo the door-stays from inside the door.
I’d rather not take off the door cards, as they aren’t the strongest.
I did notice that they are held to the A post with bolts, so are these screwed into captive nuts in the post?
Also, what’s the best – door removed from hinge? Door and hinge removed from post? Hinge split (if that’s even possible?)
Many Thanks

[blownvolvo]

Front doors are behind dash cluster and kick panel rear doors are in b piller
There are two ways to do it
1st remove the four bolts on hinge to rear door ? Easy on rear doors as can do with door shut so dosnt drop so easy to remove and refit
Front doors Easyer with door shut and do the inner six bolts as that way you can do with door shut

This is all in my opinion the way I've done it in past ??

Next tip is to drill two 1/8th holes in top and bottom hinges so to make it Easyer to aline on refitting

Al

[blownvolvo]

Oops not captive nuts

[Lou Ferrigno]

Doors are very heavy.
When I first removed a car door, it surprised me.
A block of wood beneath the door resting on a trolley jack is a useful tip but I think it needs 2 people.
Sorry if you already know this - just trying to be helpful.

[Billy Smalls]

Hi Al

Top man, thanks for getting back on this.

So un-bolting with the doors shut PLUS the 2 holes drilled right through the hinges ensures it aligns? unbolt from inside the pillars?

and in the drilled holes - stick an old drill bit through before inserting bolts?? so no weight on the threads?

is that the idea??
cheers mate

Originally Posted by blownvolvo

Front doors are behind dash cluster and kick panel rear doors are in b piller
There are two ways to do it
1st remove the four bolts on hinge to rear door ? Easy on rear doors as can do with door shut so dosnt drop so easy to remove and refit
Front doors Easyer with door shut and do the inner six bolts as that way you can do with door shut

This is all in my opinion the way I've done it in past ??

Next tip is to drill two 1/8th holes in top and bottom hinges so to make it Easyer to aline on refitting

Al

[Billy Smalls]

Thanks Lou - that's a very helpful hint, cheers

Originally Posted by Lou Ferrigno

Doors are very heavy.
When I first removed a car door, it surprised me.
A block of wood beneath the door resting on a trolley jack is a useful tip but I think it needs 2 people.
Sorry if you already know this - just trying to be helpful.

[chris s]

Hello Billy,

Just a tip before fitting the new sills, it may be wise to leave the doors in situ to ensure the gaps are OK.
It may not make that much difference to a 144 due to their sturdy construction but it is something to keep in mind.

Chris.

[Billy Smalls]

Thanks Chris

I'm not doing the work, only removing stuff to reduce the welding costs!! but I will suggest this to my man

He'd have to sort of slide the sills along 'under' the doors, which I'm not sure would work???

cheers

Originally Posted by chris s

Hello Billy,

Just a tip before fitting the new sills, it may be wise to leave the doors in situ to ensure the gaps are OK.
It may not make that much difference to a 144 due to their sturdy construction but it is something to keep in mind.

Chris.

[blownvolvo]

Yep that's the idea the dril bits are only for realigning doors Srew the bolts snug .i used to have a screw driver ground to a point to use like a podger ?
Note make sure if your drilling with door open make sure you don't run the drill bit up the outside off door
As said aline seals with doors shut
And yes there weight a ton ( funny thou two door door weight less per door)