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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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removing rubber carpet from around accelerator pedalViews : 1171 Replies : 4Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 19th, 2015, 20:16 | #1 |
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Last Online: Apr 30th, 2023 15:34
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Location: Bristol
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removing rubber carpet from around accelerator pedal
Hello
just as the title says really - I'm having lots of welding done and need to take the rubber 'carpet' out, but got to the accelerator pedal and thought I would ask around before I start taking things apart - I've learned that things often come apart simply but just wanted to check? anyone done this before?? Thanks
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just the one - 1970 144DL Auto |
Oct 20th, 2015, 09:27 | #2 |
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Last Online: Nov 25th, 2015 20:37
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Stockport
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Just done this lately.
The gas pedal pulls off the rod at the top and then you must push the full pedal sideways to release it from the two clip fittings that attach it to the floor. You can then remove the carpet with the rubber footpanel attached in one go. When you put the pedal back, press the bottom of the pedal on to the two clip fasteners that are fixed to the floor then fasten the top of the pedal to the rod. Can be a bit frustrating if there is a lot of dust or crud around the bottom of the pedal, but its got to come off if you are taking the carpet out. |
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Oct 22nd, 2015, 10:50 | #3 |
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Last Online: Apr 30th, 2023 15:34
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Bristol
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that worked so thanks very much. was a bugger to pop the rubber socket back onto the balls, but got there with some brute force
I had to remove the metal ball hinge plate too, so I could slide out the (galvanised?) trays - luckily a bit of plus-gas worked the nuts free underneath as well as the sills and arches, I'm getting the holes in each footwell (except the OS rear which is untouched for some weird reason) plated as they have expanded shall we say. A small hole by the NS jacking point too but other than that it is surprisingly un-rusty; especially as the windscreen leaks thanks again
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just the one - 1970 144DL Auto |
Oct 30th, 2015, 10:41 | #4 |
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Last Online: Nov 25th, 2015 20:37
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Billy.. you have got to get the windshield sealed after you have done the welding.
Nearly all the floor rust problems on the 140 series are caused by leaking windscreens. I have been very lucky with mine, It had a bad chip in it, but it did not fail the mot. I decided to replace it anyway during my big refurb this year, it must have been on the point of leaking as there was a lot of damp under the rubber. I fitted a new screen from a 1992.. 240.. perfect fit and has a rubber seal already bonded to the glass on the inside.. pretty easy to fit as well.. Ok .. I now have a rubber lip all the way round the outside, but we did manage to put the chrome trim over the top with a bit of fernagling of the fixing tabs.. looks good now. |
Oct 30th, 2015, 10:52 | #5 | |
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Last Online: Apr 30th, 2023 15:34
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Bristol
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Thanks Kirkie
You're right, I really do need to do the windscreen, plus lots of other stuff really. It's okay if I park the car on the level or front down hill, which is fine as it's very hilly where I live. I pick my car up tomorrow morning - it had 2 blokes on it, one each side. so once the lower wishbone poly-bushes are done, it's legal for another year. got some NOS wings to paint and fit, wheel wells are knackered as is the front panel, so should be tidy by about 2020!!! but it's so reliable and I'm attached to the car now - I know every nook and cranny - and to me that means a lot. Thanks Quote:
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just the one - 1970 144DL Auto |
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