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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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Idle AdjustmentViews : 1963 Replies : 12Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 23rd, 2012, 13:22 | #1 |
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Last Online: Apr 30th, 2023 15:34
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Idle Adjustment
Hi
I’ve noticed my idle isn’t quite as smooth as it could be and has got slightly lumpier recently. It is fine accelerating and doesn’t hunt as such but it doesn’t make the steering wheel vibrate quite a bit. On my old Citroen (with Solex carb) it was easy to adjust the idle speed / mixture with a screwdriver in 30 seconds Is it possible to tweak the single Stromberg? On a 1970 DL Auto…. I know to do a full on service, I need to be checking timing, compression etc. but I thought I’d start with a little tweak, if possible? Cheers |
Apr 23rd, 2012, 13:49 | #2 |
arcturus
Last Online: Yesterday 08:17
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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Sorry billy but the LAST thing to adjust is the idle
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Apr 23rd, 2012, 14:02 | #3 |
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Apr 23rd, 2012, 14:03 | #4 |
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Last Online: Oct 23rd, 2023 21:39
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As above, Billy-Man
There's so much that can cause bad idling and it's almost never anything to do with carb settings Have a look at this How To thing about sorting out your distributor http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=136261 It's USUALLY points.... For the small cost of getting a new set of points and a condensor, it's worth changing them. You need to look at the last 3 numbers of your distributor number when you order parts - I expect the last numbers on yours are 077 Also, while you're down there. check the cap and the rotor (again, dead cheap) and check the vacuum can holds vacuum by sucking it and check the distributor shaft by grabbing it, twisiting it and checking that it springs back Hey, you're only in Bristol. Tuning up old engines is my geeky hobby. So if you ever want to drive the hour-and-a-bit down to Exeter, I'd be delighted to show you how to get that running as sweet as a nut
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2006 XC70 D5 Manual 1968 Amazon Estate, B18A + Overdrive 2019 V60 D3 Momentum Pro Manual 1970 Amazon 2-Door 1970 142DL |
Apr 23rd, 2012, 16:12 | #5 |
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May 9th, 2012, 16:50 | #6 | |
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Quote:
Finally got round to looking at the points - one face has a tiny 'mountain' of metal, the other a tiny 'crevice' of metal - like a male / female connection!!!!!! ordered some off Brookhouse, so will fit them whilst refrrign to your very handy guide, cheers. And thanks for the offer of help - kind of you, cheers. Last time I set points was about 17 years ago, so the guide is useful....
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just the one - 1970 144DL Auto |
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May 10th, 2012, 13:08 | #7 |
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Your points could well be very old. The pip and pit makes it difficult to set the gap. Used to be that you filed them flat again but easier to fit new ones. Best to fit a new condensor at the same time as this also minimises the sparking across the points that causes this problem.
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May 10th, 2012, 20:27 | #8 |
arcturus
Last Online: Yesterday 08:17
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Location: Sagres Portugal
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Bite the bullet and get electronic ignition. No more points setting
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May 10th, 2012, 21:27 | #9 | |
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Quote:
I had 123-ignition on my old Citroen Ami and have to say it was nice to not even think about it... but setting or replacing the points is a 10 minute job...did it tonight and it's running really well - at idle, under load, on compression (though it is auto. so that's not strictly true)... cheers
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just the one - 1970 144DL Auto |
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May 11th, 2012, 08:51 | #10 |
arcturus
Last Online: Yesterday 08:17
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I think that the "123" is about as good as they come. They have been set up with a curve specifically for the B20b. Just google it. Easy installation
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