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Idle Adjustment

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Old Apr 23rd, 2012, 13:22   #1
Billy Smalls
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Default Idle Adjustment

Hi

I’ve noticed my idle isn’t quite as smooth as it could be and has got slightly lumpier recently. It is fine accelerating and doesn’t hunt as such but it doesn’t make the steering wheel vibrate quite a bit.

On my old Citroen (with Solex carb) it was easy to adjust the idle speed / mixture with a screwdriver in 30 seconds

Is it possible to tweak the single Stromberg? On a 1970 DL Auto….

I know to do a full on service, I need to be checking timing, compression etc. but I thought I’d start with a little tweak, if possible?

Cheers
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Old Apr 23rd, 2012, 13:49   #2
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Sorry billy but the LAST thing to adjust is the idle
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Old Apr 23rd, 2012, 14:02   #3
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Originally Posted by arcturus View Post
Sorry billy but the LAST thing to adjust is the idle
what's the first?

timing
tappets
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Old Apr 23rd, 2012, 14:03   #4
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As above, Billy-Man

There's so much that can cause bad idling and it's almost never anything to do with carb settings

Have a look at this How To thing about sorting out your distributor

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=136261

It's USUALLY points....

For the small cost of getting a new set of points and a condensor, it's worth changing them. You need to look at the last 3 numbers of your distributor number when you order parts - I expect the last numbers on yours are 077

Also, while you're down there. check the cap and the rotor (again, dead cheap) and check the vacuum can holds vacuum by sucking it and check the distributor shaft by grabbing it, twisiting it and checking that it springs back

Hey, you're only in Bristol. Tuning up old engines is my geeky hobby. So if you ever want to drive the hour-and-a-bit down to Exeter, I'd be delighted to show you how to get that running as sweet as a nut
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Old Apr 23rd, 2012, 16:12   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy Smalls View Post
what's the first?

timing
tappets
Tappets first.
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Old May 9th, 2012, 16:50   #6
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Originally Posted by swedishandgerman View Post
As above, Billy-Man

There's so much that can cause bad idling and it's almost never anything to do with carb settings

Have a look at this How To thing about sorting out your distributor

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=136261

It's USUALLY points....

For the small cost of getting a new set of points and a condensor, it's worth changing them. You need to look at the last 3 numbers of your distributor number when you order parts - I expect the last numbers on yours are 077

Also, while you're down there. check the cap and the rotor (again, dead cheap) and check the vacuum can holds vacuum by sucking it and check the distributor shaft by grabbing it, twisiting it and checking that it springs back

Hey, you're only in Bristol. Tuning up old engines is my geeky hobby. So if you ever want to drive the hour-and-a-bit down to Exeter, I'd be delighted to show you how to get that running as sweet as a nut
Hi There

Finally got round to looking at the points - one face has a tiny 'mountain' of metal, the other a tiny 'crevice' of metal - like a male / female connection!!!!!!

ordered some off Brookhouse, so will fit them whilst refrrign to your very handy guide, cheers.

And thanks for the offer of help - kind of you, cheers.

Last time I set points was about 17 years ago, so the guide is useful....
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Old May 10th, 2012, 13:08   #7
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Smile

Your points could well be very old. The pip and pit makes it difficult to set the gap. Used to be that you filed them flat again but easier to fit new ones. Best to fit a new condensor at the same time as this also minimises the sparking across the points that causes this problem.
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Old May 10th, 2012, 20:27   #8
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Bite the bullet and get electronic ignition. No more points setting
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Old May 10th, 2012, 21:27   #9
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Bite the bullet and get electronic ignition. No more points setting
Yeah, I've considered it. How much all in? and is it a simple case of inserting a 'unit' into the distributor cap.

I had 123-ignition on my old Citroen Ami and have to say it was nice to not even think about it...

but setting or replacing the points is a 10 minute job...did it tonight and it's running really well - at idle, under load, on compression (though it is auto. so that's not strictly true)...

cheers
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Old May 11th, 2012, 08:51   #10
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I think that the "123" is about as good as they come. They have been set up with a curve specifically for the B20b. Just google it. Easy installation
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