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Water pump removal problems

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Old Oct 25th, 2015, 17:10   #1
Terzoed
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Default Water pump removal problems

The water pump needs replacing therefore I have spent a couple of hours today getting to the point when I can remove the pump. However I'm having difficulty trying to work out how to remove the (metal) pipe that comes out of the pump and into the right hand side of the block. I can't tell how it's secured into the pump.

Short of taking the pipe directly off from the block, which would mean removal of the manifold, I can't see how to remove the pipe.

Any help will be gratefully accepted
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Old Oct 25th, 2015, 18:23   #2
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Originally Posted by Terzoed View Post
The water pump needs replacing therefore I have spent a couple of hours today getting to the point when I can remove the pump. However I'm having difficulty trying to work out how to remove the (metal) pipe that comes out of the pump and into the right hand side of the block. I can't tell how it's secured into the pump.

Short of taking the pipe directly off from the block, which would mean removal of the manifold, I can't see how to remove the pipe.

Any help will be gratefully accepted
There should be a small nut and bolt securing the red heater return pipe to the back of the water pump .. maybe it is covered with dirt .
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Old Oct 25th, 2015, 18:50   #3
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There should be a small nut and bolt securing the red heater return pipe to the back of the water pump .. maybe it is covered with dirt .
Thanks ever so much, I'll have a look in the light
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Old Oct 25th, 2015, 19:12   #4
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The nut and bolt is used on the B21/23 engines. On the B20/B30 engines the heater pipe is held in by a bracket on the metal pipe which uses one of the water pump retaining bolts.
Remove all the pump bolts and and release the it away from the block and normally the pump can be released by twisting it on the heater pipe to release the rubber seal between the pipe and pump.
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Old Oct 25th, 2015, 22:26   #5
Terzoed
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The nut and bolt is used on the B21/23 engines. On the B20/B30 engines the heater pipe is held in by a bracket on the metal pipe which uses one of the water pump retaining bolts.
Remove all the pump bolts and and release the it away from the block and normally the pump can be released by twisting it on the heater pipe to release the rubber seal between the pipe and pump.
Likewise, thanks for your advice
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Old Oct 26th, 2015, 14:47   #6
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You will also have to remove the pipe which plugs into the pump from the bottom. There is a bolt through a tab into the block tucked away vertically under the pump adjacent to where the pipe turns a right angle.
A smear of silicone grease on the new seals will help when refitting.
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Old Oct 26th, 2015, 22:19   #7
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You will also have to remove the pipe which plugs into the pump from the bottom. There is a bolt through a tab into the block tucked away vertically under the pump adjacent to where the pipe turns a right angle.
A smear of silicone grease on the new seals will help when refitting.
Many thanks, I wasn't aware of the 2nd pipe so I'll look out for it.

Already got a new tube of Hylomar Blue on standby!!
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Old Oct 30th, 2015, 13:25   #8
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Default Ooooer....

Don't like the sound of Hylomar. I used to use that on my Austin A40. If grease doesn't work use a smear of high temp silicone gasket. This sets but remains soft and doesn't make it difficult to get things apart again.
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Old Oct 30th, 2015, 22:10   #9
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Don't like the sound of Hylomar. I used to use that on my Austin A40. If grease doesn't work use a smear of high temp silicone gasket. This sets but remains soft and doesn't make it difficult to get things apart again.
Hylomar is ideal actually, it is a tacky substance mainly used for metal to metal joints , developed by Rolls-Royce . It will stick the water pump gasket to the pump or block and hold it in place .
Silicon and grease can make the gasket slide out ! seen it happen before . also a paper gasket soaked with grease is going to compress more in the following months and might need the bolts nipping up again .
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Old Oct 30th, 2015, 23:05   #10
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Each to their own. What I like about Volvos is that the parts fit together so well that the recommended 'smear of grease' is usually enough to prevent leaks and the gaskets don't rip when things are taken apart, saving all that boring gasket scraping business.
Oh, I didn't mean silicone grease, I was referring to the silicone rubber instant gasket stuff. It's a great help on the rubber ring joints that Volvo use (eg water pump, thermostat) if the aluminium or steel surfaces are damaged by corrosion.
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Last edited by Volvorama; Oct 30th, 2015 at 23:08.
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