v70 rad cooling fan not working.

stevek9815 · Mar 29th, 2019, 19:17

evening folks,

newbie signing in, sorry my first post is a cry for help.

just started having a problem with my V reg V70 2.4,
namely the radiator cooling fan does not appear to be kicking in,

symptoms are,

engine warms up quicker than normal,
i have to put the heater on full to keep it from running too hot,
no sign or sound of the fan kicking in/starting when it starts to get a little too hot for my liking.

so far i've done the following.

changed & flushed the cooling system as the "coolant" that was in there when i got the car was near enough just water.

flushed the cooling system out to clear out any crud/sediment left over,

checked the rad (all looks good), no leaks,
changed the thermostat in case it was sticking (open or closed)
changed the temperature sensor under the thermostat housing for a new one (again, in case it was on it's way out as it looked to be the original)
i changed the thermostat & temp sensor as a matter of precaution .

i know the water pump is in good condition as it was changed at the same time as the timing belt not long before i got the car,

so, does anyone know of a "how to" guide on how to test the fan?
an illustrated one would be fantastic,

the fan not kicking in/starting is the only this left i can thing of that would cause the car to run warm/hot but cool down a bit when i put the heaters on full.

so, does anyone have any ideas?

ASt85 · Mar 30th, 2019, 10:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevek9815

the fan not kicking in/starting is the only this left i can thing of that would cause the car to run warm/hot but cool down a bit when i put the heaters on full.

so, does anyone have any ideas?

Check the connections of the relay(s) located on the block connector on the underside of the upper radiator protector/cover, they slide in and out of position using the rail locators on their sides. As they slide out the relay connection fails.

Mine had a habit of sliding out slightly so working loose every few months.

There's a how to here with photographs at
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=37034

volvo again · Mar 30th, 2019, 10:46

Could be the fan motor has packed up...
Might have to remove it and rig it up to the battery to test, or remove plug from motor and check for voltage but the engine needs to at a temperature that will normally start the fan. If the supply is there, relay is working so I would suspect fan motor.

stevek9815 · Apr 1st, 2019, 13:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by ASt85

Check the connections of the relay(s) located on the block connector on the underside of the upper radiator protector/cover, they slide in and out of position using the rail locators on their sides. As they slide out the relay connection fails.

Mine had a habit of sliding out slightly so working loose every few months.

There's a how to here with photographs at
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=37034

well i've check both the fan & the big relay.

i put 12v straight to the fan & that span really (no grinding noise just a few sparks!!) so i know thats working,

i checked the really (again with 12V) & could only hear a very faint "click" which i struggled to hear first time,

got a new really on the way (from china, only place i could find one that didn't cost the earth) so that should be here in just over a week,

also, got a new temp sensor (under the thermostat housing so will change that tomorrow as the wiring & plug on the current one don't look to clever.

so, to me it looks like the relay could be the problem, what does anyone else think??

ASt85 · Apr 2nd, 2019, 10:47

If the relay is working when you apply a voltage to it, it means that either there is a fault in the connector block to the relay, the connections could be corroded or the wire from the sensor has a break in it - you need to check the continuity in the wire from the sensor to the connector - if there is no continuity the sensor can't pass sufficient current to trigger the relay. It might also mean that the contact points in the relay are burned.

Even though you have changed the sensor, it could be faulty or more likely that the connector might not be making good contact. I have never had to change the sensor so have no idea what sort of connection there wire(s) to it has or have. Have you tries cleaning all the connections with emery cloth or thin strips of emery board and then spraying with contact cleaner/propyl alcohol?

All the faults I encountered were at the relay end caused by vibration, corrosion and the connector block working loose.

stevek9815 · Apr 3rd, 2019, 10:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by ASt85

If the relay is working when you apply a voltage to it, it means that either there is a fault in the connector block to the relay, the connections could be corroded or the wire from the sensor has a break in it - you need to check the continuity in the wire from the sensor to the connector - if there is no continuity the sensor can't pass sufficient current to trigger the relay. It might also mean that the contact points in the relay are burned.

Even though you have changed the sensor, it could be faulty or more likely that the connector might not be making good contact. I have never had to change the sensor so have no idea what sort of connection there wire(s) to it has or have. Have you tries cleaning all the connections with emery cloth or thin strips of emery board and then spraying with contact cleaner/propyl alcohol?

All the faults I encountered were at the relay end caused by vibration, corrosion and the connector block working loose.

well when i changed the sensor under the thermostat i checked the wiring & the connections, the engine loom side looked a bit grubby, so i cleaned it up before fitting the new sensor,

also visually checked the wiring & connections to the fan & couldn't see anything, will get my power probe out later & go along the wires to see if they are all ok,

just got the new relay & fitted that so lets see if that does any good.

stevek9815 · Apr 4th, 2019, 15:06

well i think i'be better add a fair bit more to this,

so far the issue is running warm,

changed the coolant as what was in there seemed to be only water, car still ran slightly warm after that,

tested the fan, found to be working,
tested the relay for the fan, found to be faulty (no audible "click") swapped for a know working 2nd hand one (new one on the way), car ran still ran slighty warm after that.

emptied the coolant out then replaced both the thermostat & the temp sensor underneath for brand new ones (87c thermostat instead of 90c), refilled the coolant with the same amount that came out.

took the car for a run round town (a couple of miles) on the way back the coolant light came on, had the interior heater fan on full & it never went above 3/4 on the gauge. pulled on to the drive & shut the engine off.

checked the coolant level & found there was only a dribble in the expansion tank,

both the hose from the thermostat & the bottom rad hose were warm.

all in all leads me to think there were two problems.

1, air lock in the cooling system.
2, knackered thermostat.

i'm leaning towards the thermostat being knackered as it had to use both hands to see if the spring would move (didnt have a chance to test i in boiling water), it took considerable strength/force to squeeze it down were as with the new thermostat i was able to squeeze the spring with my thumb & finger.

will take the car out again later & see how it goes,
fingers crossed the problem has been solved.

DaveNP · Apr 4th, 2019, 15:19

It's a horrendous bodge but, when I bought my V70 it always ran a bit cool, figuring it was the thermostat I bought a new one and went to fit it. It turned out someone in the past had taken the previous thermostat and cut out the middle of it then reassembled the housing with just the rim of the thermostat to make the seal. If you've got a thermostat that is knackered you could try that, if it starts running a bit cool rather than a bit hot you could have an answer.
edit .. and then fit a good thermostat.

stevek9815 · Apr 4th, 2019, 15:21

forgot to add,

the main reason i'm leaning towards it being thermostat is this.

when i first changed the coolant the level never dropped after "bleeding" the system.

yet this time when i change the thermostat & refill & bleed the system the coolant level drops down enough to cause the low coolant light to come on.

makes me this the thermostat was not opening allowing the coolant through to the rad,

i guess only time will tell.

stevek9815 · Apr 4th, 2019, 15:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveNP

It's a horrendous bodge but, when I bought my V70 it always ran a bit cool, figuring it was the thermostat I bought a new one and went to fit it. It turned out someone in the past had taken the previous thermostat and cut out the middle of it then reassembled the housing with just the rim of the thermostat to make the seal. If you've got a thermostat that is knackered you could try that, if it starts running a bit cool rather than a bit hot you could have an answer.
edit .. and then fit a good thermostat.

i know what you mean about bodge jobs, seen quite a few over the years, hopefully it was just the T/stat that was knackered,

only time will tell.

Mar 29th, 2019, 19:17	#1
stevek9815 New Member Last Online: May 12th, 2019 09:01 Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: shirebrook	v70 rad cooling fan not working. evening folks, newbie signing in, sorry my first post is a cry for help. just started having a problem with my V reg V70 2.4, namely the radiator cooling fan does not appear to be kicking in, symptoms are, engine warms up quicker than normal, i have to put the heater on full to keep it from running too hot, no sign or sound of the fan kicking in/starting when it starts to get a little too hot for my liking. so far i've done the following. changed & flushed the cooling system as the "coolant" that was in there when i got the car was near enough just water. flushed the cooling system out to clear out any crud/sediment left over, checked the rad (all looks good), no leaks, changed the thermostat in case it was sticking (open or closed) changed the temperature sensor under the thermostat housing for a new one (again, in case it was on it's way out as it looked to be the original) i changed the thermostat & temp sensor as a matter of precaution . i know the water pump is in good condition as it was changed at the same time as the timing belt not long before i got the car, so, does anyone know of a "how to" guide on how to test the fan? an illustrated one would be fantastic, the fan not kicking in/starting is the only this left i can thing of that would cause the car to run warm/hot but cool down a bit when i put the heaters on full. so, does anyone have any ideas?

Apr 2nd, 2019, 10:47	#5
ASt85 Premier Member Last Online: Today 08:06 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Walderslade....Kent	If the relay is working when you apply a voltage to it, it means that either there is a fault in the connector block to the relay, the connections could be corroded or the wire from the sensor has a break in it - you need to check the continuity in the wire from the sensor to the connector - if there is no continuity the sensor can't pass sufficient current to trigger the relay. It might also mean that the contact points in the relay are burned. Even though you have changed the sensor, it could be faulty or more likely that the connector might not be making good contact. I have never had to change the sensor so have no idea what sort of connection there wire(s) to it has or have. Have you tries cleaning all the connections with emery cloth or thin strips of emery board and then spraying with contact cleaner/propyl alcohol? All the faults I encountered were at the relay end caused by vibration, corrosion and the connector block working loose. __________________ The saddest moment is when the one who gave you the best memories....becomes a MEMORY V70 SE 2004 2.3L T5 Geartronic, C70 2005 2.0T Automatic, Sold 2.4l 20 Valve Automatic Torslander Sold 854 GLT 20v Auto Last edited by ASt85; Apr 2nd, 2019 at 10:51.

Apr 4th, 2019, 15:19	#8
DaveNP Non VOC Member Last Online: Today 06:45 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Milton Keynes	It's a horrendous bodge but, when I bought my V70 it always ran a bit cool, figuring it was the thermostat I bought a new one and went to fit it. It turned out someone in the past had taken the previous thermostat and cut out the middle of it then reassembled the housing with just the rim of the thermostat to make the seal. If you've got a thermostat that is knackered you could try that, if it starts running a bit cool rather than a bit hot you could have an answer. edit .. and then fit a good thermostat. __________________ David V70 2.5 10v Torslanda Manual 98 Sreg

Mar 30th, 2019, 10:46	#3
volvo again Master Member Last Online: Yesterday 11:03 Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Presteigne, mid Wales	Could be the fan motor has packed up... Might have to remove it and rig it up to the battery to test, or remove plug from motor and check for voltage but the engine needs to at a temperature that will normally start the fan. If the supply is there, relay is working so I would suspect fan motor.

Apr 4th, 2019, 15:06	#7
stevek9815 New Member Last Online: May 12th, 2019 09:01 Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: shirebrook	well i think i'be better add a fair bit more to this, so far the issue is running warm, changed the coolant as what was in there seemed to be only water, car still ran slightly warm after that, tested the fan, found to be working, tested the relay for the fan, found to be faulty (no audible "click") swapped for a know working 2nd hand one (new one on the way), car ran still ran slighty warm after that. emptied the coolant out then replaced both the thermostat & the temp sensor underneath for brand new ones (87c thermostat instead of 90c), refilled the coolant with the same amount that came out. took the car for a run round town (a couple of miles) on the way back the coolant light came on, had the interior heater fan on full & it never went above 3/4 on the gauge. pulled on to the drive & shut the engine off. checked the coolant level & found there was only a dribble in the expansion tank, both the hose from the thermostat & the bottom rad hose were warm. all in all leads me to think there were two problems. 1, air lock in the cooling system. 2, knackered thermostat. i'm leaning towards the thermostat being knackered as it had to use both hands to see if the spring would move (didnt have a chance to test i in boiling water), it took considerable strength/force to squeeze it down were as with the new thermostat i was able to squeeze the spring with my thumb & finger. will take the car out again later & see how it goes, fingers crossed the problem has been solved.

Apr 4th, 2019, 15:21	#9
stevek9815 New Member Last Online: May 12th, 2019 09:01 Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: shirebrook	forgot to add, the main reason i'm leaning towards it being thermostat is this. when i first changed the coolant the level never dropped after "bleeding" the system. yet this time when i change the thermostat & refill & bleed the system the coolant level drops down enough to cause the low coolant light to come on. makes me this the thermostat was not opening allowing the coolant through to the rad, i guess only time will tell.

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