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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Brake light switchViews : 8772 Replies : 42Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Dec 28th, 2016, 11:30 | #21 |
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Sven;
Don't let Hyd Brk Lt Sw failure keep you from taking that ride! In the interim, you could implement some "Field Expedient Engineering" ...short term only though, please! See: http://www.sw-em.com/hydraulic%20bra...nt_engineering RHD kits are in stock. But it would be inappropriate to do business on this Forum. Please e-mail direct, through SW-EM site. Cheers |
Dec 28th, 2016, 13:50 | #22 |
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Many people have swapped these switches over and not rebled afterwards. You do have to be very quick and have the new one in the same hand you use to take the old one out! Fluid should flow out rather than air getting in. I don't want to tempt you to have someone put the very lightest of touches on the brake pedal to make sure fluid does flow because the pedal will tend to go to the floor fairly quickly when you remove the switch. Coming off the pedal before the switch is tight will tend to suck in air. Also a bit messy so the risk is up to you. Don't forget to top up the MC afterwards.
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Dec 28th, 2016, 14:36 | #23 |
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Derek;
I too have quickly removed and replaced these switches, and found afterwards that Brakes did not get totally spongy...I expect in that case only a very minor bubble of air gets introduced, which is easily overcome while depressing pedal, so not even noticed...if you can do it and get away with it, fine, but it's a bit of a trick and so not the first recommendation... ...but having someone apply even only minor pressure on the pedal to assure no air enters is even trickier, because the moment that switch is removed, the system is open and even minor pressure in the system will force fluid out maybe uncontrollably...a "feather touch" is called for here! Cheers |
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Dec 28th, 2016, 18:39 | #24 |
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Thanks Derek and Ron – I popped into our local motor factors today and they have a switch, Intermotor 51600, which would seem to fit, can either of you confirm that? If it would fit, I'll have a bash at doing it myself, and pay £6 from the local place, rather than $13+ VAT and delivery from a Volvo specialist, and then £45+ VAT to get the garage to fit it!
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Dec 28th, 2016, 20:22 | #25 |
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Sven;
Yes that looks like it will fit...I just hope it is not one of the ones from the aftermarket with terrible reliability (see earlier in this thread)...but it likely is...doing it yourself inexpensively is worth a try...work fast!...question is: How long will it last? Good Hunting! |
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Dec 28th, 2016, 20:34 | #26 |
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There will be a small hole at the threaded end of the new switch. Fill that with brake fluid before fitting - it will only take a drop! - to increase your chances of avoiding having to bleed the brakes afterwards.
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Dec 29th, 2016, 18:09 | #27 |
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Well, folks, a bit of good news! Went round to the garage today, went under the hood and just made sure the electric connections to the pedal switch were good and tight, and the brake lights now work again!
It's been pretty darn cold the past coupla days, so could the seeming failure of the switch, as it goes on brake fluid pressure, be connected to the low temperatures? On another point, our local mech sorted the carbs out in the spring, as a serious amount of gunk had come down the line and fouled everything up. Sven now runs really well, but even in warmer weather, starting from cold with full choke, we've had trouble with the car puttering to a halt when my wife takes her foot off the gas pedal, coming out of the sidestreet where our rented garage is, and down to the main road junction. This was really pronounced today, when it was cold, and as you can imagine, stalling at a busy junction isn't fun! I think our mech must have set the idling/tickover when the engine was already warm, which would account for the petering out, as there's no problem after the engine warms up and it restarts first go after it stalls due to lack of revs. How easy is it to 'up' the idling speed? Tempted to just drive Sven back over and get him to sort it for free... |
Dec 29th, 2016, 20:29 | #28 |
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Stalling
Just leave the choke out a bit until you are properly on the move.If it's ok when warm I would leave it alone.
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Dec 29th, 2016, 20:39 | #29 |
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The problem is that, even with the choke out, if my wife takes her foot off the accelerator, the engine sputters out/stalls, which is why I think that the idling/tickover is too low. We sat there getting the engine warm, after starting with full choke, which is always easy enough, for a good five minutes. Then, leaving the choke out about half way, it still sputters out/stalls at the first junction. The roads are very busy here, so that isn't ideal!
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Dec 29th, 2016, 21:25 | #30 |
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Stalling
Check the adjustment of this screw. It should have a gap of about 1mm between the screw and the cam (that's what it is on my car, anyway). This increases the idle when the choke is pulled out.
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