Amazon: - Brake light switch - Page 5

SvenSomerset · Jan 15th, 2017, 15:39

As Derek suggested, I cleaned the connections on the brake light switch with some emory paper and used a pair of pliers to gently squeeze the female connectors a little, so they're a tight fit onto the male terminals. The brake lights are working A-OK now! Phew!

I also swapped over Sven's late-period grilles for the earlier type kindly supplied by Chris (Volvo131), and I think they look MUCH better! Consequently, I'll be listing the old grilles in the 'for sale' section, just to pass them on to someone who may need a reasonably straight set, will be asking £30 including UK postage, which is what Chris charged me for the earlier set. After all the kindness shown by board members, I don't think it's right to 'make' on spares you don't need!

SvenSomerset · Jan 17th, 2017, 17:55

Firstly, belated apologies for going OT with this thread... *embarrassed face*

Took Sven up to Jim at Weston Garages this evening, and he put the timing light on it, stuck the sensor up the exhaust to gauge emissions, checked the plugs for crud and that the carbs were balanced / correctly lubricated. The idle was sitting at just over 800 so he increased that to 900, to stop the car stalling out while relatively cold, when we're trying to get out of very busy junctions near our rented garage. Sven's now idling a lot smoother, but not so high that there's over-run when switching off. The charge? Nothing. He's a good chap! Thanks again for all the advice provided by VF members, it's sincerely appreciated!

Will take him out on Saturday, and just hope that the leak in the heater isn't the matrix, just the missing 'escape' pipe! Stuck an old plastic takeaway container under there and had the heater on tonite, fingers crossed that the liquid in there isn't coolant, just water...

Derek UK · Jan 18th, 2017, 14:09

If you have the early rad with no expansion bottle you do need to leave some space in the top tank for expansion. An inch below the bottom of the filler should do it. That's about half way down the visible core. The tap on the bottom of the rad, if fitted, will enable you to drain a bit if needed.

Jan 15th, 2017, 15:39	#41
SvenSomerset Member Last Online: Oct 10th, 2018 15:02 Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Somerset	As Derek suggested, I cleaned the connections on the brake light switch with some emory paper and used a pair of pliers to gently squeeze the female connectors a little, so they're a tight fit onto the male terminals. The brake lights are working A-OK now! Phew! I also swapped over Sven's late-period grilles for the earlier type kindly supplied by Chris (Volvo131), and I think they look MUCH better! Consequently, I'll be listing the old grilles in the 'for sale' section, just to pass them on to someone who may need a reasonably straight set, will be asking £30 including UK postage, which is what Chris charged me for the earlier set. After all the kindness shown by board members, I don't think it's right to 'make' on spares you don't need!

Jan 17th, 2017, 17:55	#42
SvenSomerset Member Last Online: Oct 10th, 2018 15:02 Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Somerset	Firstly, belated apologies for going OT with this thread... embarrassed face Took Sven up to Jim at Weston Garages this evening, and he put the timing light on it, stuck the sensor up the exhaust to gauge emissions, checked the plugs for crud and that the carbs were balanced / correctly lubricated. The idle was sitting at just over 800 so he increased that to 900, to stop the car stalling out while relatively cold, when we're trying to get out of very busy junctions near our rented garage. Sven's now idling a lot smoother, but not so high that there's over-run when switching off. The charge? Nothing. He's a good chap! Thanks again for all the advice provided by VF members, it's sincerely appreciated! Will take him out on Saturday, and just hope that the leak in the heater isn't the matrix, just the missing 'escape' pipe! Stuck an old plastic takeaway container under there and had the heater on tonite, fingers crossed that the liquid in there isn't coolant, just water...

Jan 18th, 2017, 14:09	#43
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 14:24 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	If you have the early rad with no expansion bottle you do need to leave some space in the top tank for expansion. An inch below the bottom of the filler should do it. That's about half way down the visible core. The tap on the bottom of the rad, if fitted, will enable you to drain a bit if needed.

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