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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Amp light full red on startup?Views : 5178 Replies : 30Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 1st, 2015, 15:17 | #11 |
Bigbunt
Last Online: Yesterday 02:20
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
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Took the top off the regulator with engine running but I can't say that I knew what I was looking for. All was dry and recent looking with no evidence of overheating or corrosion that I could see. My money's on the brushes...
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Oct 1st, 2015, 17:21 | #12 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 13:58
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
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Bb;
It's OK to remove VReg lid and have a look inside at the magic going on, maybe even watch and marvel at the action at various Revs and Elec Load conditions, but I recommend against attempting any adjustments unless you 1. are electrically qualified, 2. have the necessary test equipment and instrumentation and 3. follow the specific techniques and instructions spelled out in the factory green manual. Some carbonization of VReg internal working contacts will always be evident, and if excessive may cause contact closure problems...I suppose you might try burnishing these away gently (using a diamond micro-file) without changing contact adjustment (difficult!). Link to the absolutely best and most detailed/comprehensive explanation of VReg internal function for the Bosch Generator based Charging System I have seen (on-line translator required, if German is a problem for you!): http://www.kfz.josefscholz.de/Gleichstrom-Lima.html I don't believe the author simply copied it from Bosch publications...really good coverage here! Cheers Last edited by Ron Kwas; Oct 1st, 2015 at 17:31. |
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Oct 4th, 2015, 23:55 | #13 |
Bigbunt
Last Online: Yesterday 02:20
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
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Okay, so today I did the following... As mentioned earlier, I ordered a set of brushes for the generator from VP as recommended by Ron and removed and replaced existing, which were at least half gone and definitely ready or close to it... Alas it was not to be that easy so I did a couple more of Ron's tests, first of which was measuring output of generator and regulator together together and came up with 2.1-2.4 volts, so,far so good. Next I did the regulator bypass and got an output that was in the 18+-19+V neighborhood so unless I hear otherwise, I'm going to putting a new VR in there..
Sound right?! |
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Oct 8th, 2015, 00:22 | #14 |
Bigbunt
Last Online: Yesterday 02:20
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
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Alright, now I really am flummoxed... After the preceding diagnostic work, as I previously mentioned, I ordered a NOS Bosch regulator from a very highly rated eBay seller with the original paint glob on the screw to prove it was not messed around with and installed it. On startup, everything great! I got about a half mile down the road and...red light again! No change with engine revs, just a red light. Remembered that the battery switch connection was a bit wiggly and hoped that when I shut her down in the driveway and started it up again that I'd get nothing but, boom, started right up.
Short of the NOS regulator being bad, am I missing something? Murphy's Law at work? |
Oct 8th, 2015, 01:29 | #15 |
Bigbunt
Last Online: Yesterday 02:20
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
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To answer for myself, I guess I'm going to rerun all of Ron's tests again! My son coached me on checking for continuity by using the multimeter.
Any other thoughts would be appreciated. Seems like the VR being NG after half a mile is pretty dubious but what do I know?! |
Oct 8th, 2015, 16:45 | #16 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Today 14:59
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
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Check the top dumpy fuse. Failure of that will put your light on. If it looks OK carefully check the tips to see if they are intact. Spinning the fuses a lot can cut off the ends.
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Oct 8th, 2015, 19:00 | #17 |
Bigbunt
Last Online: Yesterday 02:20
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
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Well, it appears or have failed Ron's reciprocity test. Sparks when connecting to VR but no movement at dyno. So that's not good. There's a ghost in the machine cuz I tried the bypass test and wasn't getting voltage whereas the other day I had 18-19 volts. Does any of this make sense? Remember I replaced the VR...
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Oct 8th, 2015, 20:38 | #18 |
Bigbunt
Last Online: Yesterday 02:20
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
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I just put new brushes in... Possible loose wire inside Dyno?!
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Oct 8th, 2015, 21:21 | #19 |
Master Member
Last Online: Mar 27th, 2024 07:47
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Blackpool
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Evening , been reading your postings & trawled my fading memory . From my findings , i agree the brushes required changing , BUt you also need to clean the commutator . I use garryflex blocks & wash off the comm with brake cleaner as it leaves no residue , use the finest grit block gently , it will remove any dark marks & wear ridges on the commutator
http://www.axminster.co.uk/garryflex...cleaning-block I would also wash out the brush holders & springs as these can become very dirty and stop brushes from pressing on the comm properly and even bounce off when the comm spins at high speed .
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Oct 8th, 2015, 21:28 | #20 |
Bigbunt
Last Online: Yesterday 02:20
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
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Thank you sir. I'll try that next. Seems like a good explanation. The commutator wasn't shiny but it wasn't really dark either as I remember. And the brushes were way worn!
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amp light, charging system, generator |
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