V70 Brakes: Front brake pipe routing / repairing

[aspireofbrixham]

So, I rushed home today as I had a shiny new OEM ATE rear calliper coming to replace my nearside rear which is sticking a bit.

Unfortunately the forces of evil conspired, firstly for Parcel Force to come while nobody was home, and secondly to then leave it at the village Post Office when it's half day closing.

Never mind, I could still make use of the time by replacing the front flexi-hoses, so set about it, on the drive, just as it started to spit rain and get a bit blowy. There was a bit of early stage cracking, especially on the nearside one. Passed the MOT but was an advisory.

Need the car first thing in the morning so can't afford any disasters. Brave or what given it's a 2007 and they have never been touched!

Nearside went OK. Jiggled the bleed screw free first of all to make sure it didn't shear. Important to start there in case one one of the unions won't budge, at least I should be able to tighten everything back up, bleed them down and drive away in the morning.

Got to the drivers side and the bleed nipple rounded a little but came free and was useable. Calliper connection of the flexi, likewise came free. Brake pipe connection came free OK but the pipe was siezed into the flare nut. Tried everything I could to get it moving but it was solid and scraping the plastic coating back revealed corrosion underneath. Couldn't give it the beans and risk shearing the pipe so had to retreat, tighten them all up, bleed off and go for a quick test drive to make sure all was well.

So now I need to replace the brake line to the driver's side front and wondered if anyone can advise where it is routed. It was getting dark and cold by this time and couldn't figure out where it goes, other than disappearing inside the wheel arch.

Any clues as to the price would be helpful. I'll probably have to buy a Volvo line so I have it ready to complete the job in one go, as I would probably struggle to take it off and get one made, given that I live out in the sticks.

Alternatively, I could have a go at replacing the end section. Basic flaring tools aren't too expensive and hopefully there will be enough good brake pipe to cut it back, reflare the end and fit a repair piece in.

Pointers from anyone who has done this would be equally welcome. Especially pipe size, union size, recommended cheapie flaring tool.

Oh, there is another scenario. The flexi will not turn at the brake pipe union. It sits in what looks like a sprung metal frame against the bracket that supports the fitting. While I can't see anything on the old or new pipes that would hold this in register to stop it turning, turn it will not, otherwise I could have just supported the seized union and removed the flexi. If anyone knows how to overcome this resistance, that would be a very valid way forward.

Though the seized brake pipe needs changing anyway now I've seen it!

[b1mcp]

"The flexi will not turn at the brake pipe union. It sits in what looks like a sprung metal frame against the bracket that supports the fitting."


The hex part of the flexi hose sits in a hex recess in the bracket. It is held in the recess by the spring clip that you mention. The spring clip is held in tension by the brake pipe fitting.

Joining a piece on to a brake pipe is perfectly acceptable and is the way I would normally do it where only a part of the pipe is corroded or damaged.

[aspireofbrixham]

Yeah, thanks for that. When I got to the rear callipers and flexi's yesterday I could actually see how it holds. At the chassis end, a spring on the solid side pulls the flexi it into a 12point hole which is handy to hold it tight. Shame the bracket is made of mush otherwise this arrangement would actually help the job along.

As you can only get a fraction of a turn on the flare nut, releasing the bracket was the only way to make enough space to be able to spanner the flare nut, 12th at a time, turning the spanner every time.

Bracket held on by a rusty 10mm which is about 25mm longer than it needs to be. Again, you can only get a fraction of a turn but at least you can get a ratchet spanner on that. Took me as long to release that as it did to swap the calliper.

So, RH rear all done, LH rear, done calliper but flare nut looks seized to pipe so still on old flexi.

Now have 2x pipes to renew so have an excuse to buy a lenghth of CuNi Kunifer pipe and a small, hand-held flaring tool.

It would be great if someone could state with cerainty what sizes I need, I've been searching around and it looks like I need:

4.75mm pipe. Is there such a thing or is it all 3/16?
Male M10 x 1mm short nuts.
Femail M10 x 1mm joints.
One of these which is clearly 4.75mm but I can't find any 4.75mm pipe!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-PIP...19.m1438.l2649

While I'm kitting up, the flare nuts at the ABS end look longer, are 2 sizes in use?

Any help very welcome.

Happy Daze!

[b1mcp]

4.75mm and 3/16 inch is for all intents and purposes the same size.

I have that tool (but the SAE version) and the die is stamped with 3/16 and 4.75.

The link you gave is for a DIN version which I think produces a different shape flare.

[aspireofbrixham]

So 3/16 with SAE flare is the spec I need?

Also can anyone confirm if there is just one size of male flare nut, and a good supplier of nuts that don't turn to mush. Loads of cheap stuff on the web but I prefer to make it last if possible.

Thanks