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Help with a modified B230FT stalling

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Old Nov 24th, 2020, 23:16   #1
yambox142
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Default Help with a modified B230FT stalling

Okay folks, I don't usually ask for help here but I have reached the limit of my knowledge.
I have a 1971 142E (not important) with a 2.3 liter B230FT (from a 1993 940) M46 trans swap.
Modifications:
- iPD turbo cam
- TD04-19T ← this is new (still need to truly break it in, boost is set super low)
- Larger intercooler
- Upgraded fuel injectors (newer Bosch design for improved atomization) and fuel pump (high flowing).
- Tuning chip (not the stage 3 chip, where you need the “big greens” and 3 inch MAF)
- Cone filter (brand new)
- 3'' down pipe (running a straight pipe at the moment, haven't gotten to the exhaust yet).
Replaced/Cleaned:
- Distributor cap and rotor
- New oil separation box and all associated hoses.
- MAF cleaned
- New plugs
- Replaced almost every hose in the car
- Throttle body cleaned
- Reset the ECU, more times than I can count.
Diagnostics:
- Smoke test (smoke leak from the throttle body spring and base of dipstick)
- Boost leak test (I only get air from the dip stick, when I pull the dipstick and plug the hole I don't hear air leaking form any other location. When I release my finger from the dipstick a whoosh of air comes out.

My car starts without any issues, idles fine (wideband reads 14.1- 14.5), and feels great when accelerating, BUT when I abruptly take my foot off the gas from acceleration the engine almost stalls, or completely stalls. The car idles fine, it drives so strong I just cannot figure out why it keeps stalling. The next part to be replaced is the “idle air valve.” I feel like I keep replacing parts but I get no closer to solving the problem. My love for this car is starting to turn into resentment.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old Nov 25th, 2020, 00:11   #2
Laird Scooby
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Are you still using the original analogue speedo? Is there any speed sensor for the ECU to read road speed?
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Old Nov 25th, 2020, 12:04   #3
Rversteeg
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Did you check the setting and function of the Throttle Position Switch? If the ECU is not aware that you have taken your foot off the gas it might be too slow in responding / anticipating by opening the idle air valve. The engine speed then drops below 800 rpm (to around 500 tpm if the throttle has been set correctly) before opening the idle air valve.
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Old Nov 25th, 2020, 14:58   #4
TonyS9
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Thats exactly the fault you get when the dump valve isn't working.

What have you done regards dumping?
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Old Nov 25th, 2020, 17:51   #5
mhuk
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I had the same.

Car does not like dome filter

Recirc valve has split? One vac line from recirc valve to inlet only.
Having had the same as you before I then went recently and attempted to tidy my vac hoses. What a mistake. I need up stalling .
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Old Dec 1st, 2020, 20:09   #6
yambox142
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Update.
First off, I want to say thanks for all the suggestions. I did everything that was suggested here and I am happy to announce that the stall is no longer. I dialed in the throttle body (it blows my mind how precise this engine needs the throttle body to be, and the task of getting the throttle plate / switch just right was not hard, once I read the convoluted instruction ten times). After the throttle plate / switch adjustment the stall mostly went away.
When I took apart my CBV (I believe it was referred to as a dump valve) cleaned/lubed, things got even better. Finally I received my new Idle Air Control Valve (and associated hoses) and the beast was alive. Thanks again for all the help.

Yam
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Old Dec 2nd, 2020, 12:09   #7
TonyS9
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Indeed it is quite fussy, the ECU assumes a precise air flow from the throttle body and doesn't learn a new one except when running. Why it forgets this when it turned off and not fuel trims is not understood, but I feel it is just bad programming/bad algorithm, there are a few other examples of bad programming in the LH2.4 system. Dirty throttle bodies also cause stalling after start up but not usually stalling after acceleration.

The CBV is the proper name for the dump valve. Compressed air is dumped out the the air filter and not "recirculated because its already measured" as many people think. Recirculation happens during idle, it just means the valve remains open during idle (as opposed to aftermarket ones that let air out directly, that close after dumping). This misinformation was one problem I had to overcome when first diagnosing a faulty dump valve after a 3rd party had worked on my sisters car many years ago. The Engine stalls because the mixture is too weak, caused by too much air entering the cylinders, caused by too much pressure and air entering mostly via the IACV. The ECU is either assuming air flow from a fixed IACV setting or using the maf (slow response and inaccurate at low rates), it cannot use the O2 system to add this much fuel and it is also too slow. The MAF is reading zero with a closed dump valve and a pressurised system trying to idle. Later MAP systems are better at managing this.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2020, 15:30   #8
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^^lol no
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Old Dec 3rd, 2020, 15:40   #9
Clan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yambox142 View Post
Okay folks, I don't usually ask for help here but I have reached the limit of my knowledge.
I have a 1971 142E (not important) with a 2.3 liter B230FT (from a 1993 940) M46 trans swap.
Modifications:
- iPD turbo cam
- TD04-19T ← this is new (still need to truly break it in, boost is set super low)
- Larger intercooler
- Upgraded fuel injectors (newer Bosch design for improved atomization) and fuel pump (high flowing).
- Tuning chip (not the stage 3 chip, where you need the “big greens” and 3 inch MAF)
- Cone filter (brand new)
- 3'' down pipe (running a straight pipe at the moment, haven't gotten to the exhaust yet).
Replaced/Cleaned:
- Distributor cap and rotor
- New oil separation box and all associated hoses.
- MAF cleaned
- New plugs
- Replaced almost every hose in the car
- Throttle body cleaned
- Reset the ECU, more times than I can count.
Diagnostics:
- Smoke test (smoke leak from the throttle body spring and base of dipstick)
- Boost leak test (I only get air from the dip stick, when I pull the dipstick and plug the hole I don't hear air leaking form any other location. When I release my finger from the dipstick a whoosh of air comes out.

My car starts without any issues, idles fine (wideband reads 14.1- 14.5), and feels great when accelerating, BUT when I abruptly take my foot off the gas from acceleration the engine almost stalls, or completely stalls. The car idles fine, it drives so strong I just cannot figure out why it keeps stalling. The next part to be replaced is the “idle air valve.” I feel like I keep replacing parts but I get no closer to solving the problem. My love for this car is starting to turn into resentment.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I assume the turbocharger still has the By-Pass valve?
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Old Dec 3rd, 2020, 16:03   #10
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Originally Posted by baggy798 View Post
^^lol no
I can't claim to have 100% understanding of the LH2.4 software but I am an Engineer and do understand basic physics. If you have something to add that wil further our knowledge I'm sure everyone would like to know.
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