240 Fuel Pump Relay

[rtbcomp]

These might help

Fuel Pump Wiring 1986.jpg

Fuel Pump Wiring 1992.jpg

[rtbcomp]

I've re-posted the lost images for this thread here:

Fuel Pump Wiring 1992 MOD.jpg

Fusebox 02 Small.jpg

Fusebox 04 Small.jpg

Fusebox 05 Small.jpg

[Stephen Edwin]

Thank you rtb and I have inspected my fuses and the area around them.

I think these are the white stackable fuseholders you used https://www.beal.org.uk/electrical-p...fu2-fuses.html

and that company sell a black version, which seems to have the wiring connectors on the bottom https://www.beal.org.uk/electrical-p...fu2-fuses.html.

For anyone interested there is also a mounting plate available to be used with either of those fuseholders https://www.beal.org.uk/electrical-p...ers/fuses.html.

I duly removed the carpet trim in the footwell. Aside: I can see the white relay easily up behind the glove box and I guess that's the easiest way I would get at the relay if I need to.

I also removed the black plastic trim that covers between the door and the carpet trim. That was easy. Just pull away the snug trim around the edge of the door and manouvre the moulded plastic cover sheet out of the footwell. And it gives hugely more access.

Fuse 4 has two white and red wires on the load side, probably faded yellow and red.

Fuse 6 is interesting. There is as anticipated a thick red wire on the load side.

There is also a thinner red wire. That thinner wire goes to a blade fuseholder with a 30amp fuse. A doubly pointless modification I suspect. Why put a fuse let alone a 30amp fuse, on a fused supply of lower rating? That wire goes to a black outer insulation which has also an earthed black wire in it. That two core cable wanders off to the centre console and possibly/probably beyond. The 30amp fuse will I hope be OK made history.

I'm thinking of taking power from the power input of fuses 4 and 6 using insulated crimped piggy back connectors. I have a CK ratcheting crimp tool.

[rtbcomp]

Try and find where that thin red wire goes to and retain the extra fuse holder and fit a lower value fuse.

Choose the fuse rating to protect the wire.

With the 30A fuse if whatever it connects to shorts out it would blow the pump fuse leading to a potentially dangerous situation.

NB Fuse 4 doesn't have a live input, you need to take the live from fuse 6

[Stephen Edwin]

Yes I'm planning a lower rate fuse specifically to protect only that thinner wire.

So, where does fuse 4 get power from now? Or of course I should get the test lamp out and find out...

[rtbcomp]

It's shown in Post #11

The yellow/Red wire from RL2

[Stephen Edwin]

And that power comes from fuse 6...

And I can take that same power supply from the Y/R wire from RL2 for my inline fuseholders in place of fuse 4....

I think...

[rtbcomp]

That's right, the wires should just pull back, use the same crimp connectors.

The 1st diagram in post #12 shows the original fuse 4 completely disconnected and the new fuse 4 is a blade type alongside the new fuse 6

[Nashsurecanpaint]

I can't wait to read this thread. I think this is the exact source of information I've been looking for, for the last month.

[Nashsurecanpaint]

My ECU is a pink labled -561, will all the information cover my ECU? From all my diagnosis I believe my problem is in my ECU.