Front suspension overhaul

[Dr Phil]

Hi people,
I am looking for advice for the impending overhaul of the front suspension on our '91 240 estate - the suspension is soft, and squeaky.
Before I get started, i have a couple of specific questions:
(i) Where is the best place to place jack and axle stands when working on the front end?
(ii) Does the noise indicate that the bushes need replacing?
(iii) I think I have all the right tools, and it doesn't look too bad in Haynes, but does anyone have any tips learnt from experience?
(iv) Apart from issues with tyre wear and a reduction in braking efficiency, am I doing any other damage by not getting on with the job?

Thanks for any help!!

Dr Phil

[Citizen.Agfa]

Hi, Dr Phil! (too much Simpsons.)

(iii) Just the usual caution with regard to coil spring compressors; space them equally around the unit and treat the compressed unit rather on a par with an unexploded bomb i.e. safe in the right hands and treat gently.

(iv) Not damage as such, but increased level of risk; a weak shocker will allow reduced road contact by the wheel thereby, obviously, reducing levels of grip; should you have to take violent evasive action the car might not respond in the predictable manner.

Best regards, Nick H.

[boxman]

Hi There
I have been having similar problems with my 92 240 estate (see previous threads entitled "suspension woes"). My problem was different in so much that my front suspension was very hard at low speeds and I thought my front shockers and bushes needed upgrading. I wouldn't automatically assume that there are big problems because of the symptoms you describe.
After many trips to local garages, with no joy, I took the car to my volvo dealer who did a full inspection and report and at the same time replaced a "missing" bolt holding the front wishbone to the chassis (sorry no more technical than that). They assured me that the various bushes etc were fine. The car still seems overly firm, but at least I am confident no major problems are there.
The moral of my story is that it is so easy to spend time and money before knowing the extent of your problem - for the few pounds it costs get an expert (probably volvo) to tell you exactly what needs done, then plan your attack. With areas such as bushing / suspension something very simple could be the problem, and cheap to fix.

Good luck !
John

[Clifford Pope]

I agree with that.
Get some expert advice (comes free at the MOT if you get on good terms with the tester), and do some elementary probing yourself.
Things I'd look at before jumping to any conclusions would include:

1) Anti-roll bar bushes and linkages. Very easy to check, very easy to replace if worn or squeaking.
2) Put jack under the end of the wishbone so that the suspension is kept compressed, and try to waggle the wheel top to bottom. If there is any wobble, it is either wheel bearing, or the ball joint at the bottom of the strut, or the strut itself.
Wheel bearings can be adjusted, or are quite easy to replace.
The bottom ball joint is easy to replace - the whole unit unbolts, there is nothing awkward to press out unlike on some cars.
Struts are more difficult. Look for movement, leakage, and do the ordinary bouncing on the bumper test.

3) Wishbone inner bushes. Again with the suspension compressed (not dangling, because that stretches the joints tight and hides any movement)try levering with a big screwdriver or crowbar. The bushes are easy to extract and replace.

4) The other bush - location bar or whatever it is called . A sort of rubber doughnut thing inside a housing bolted on to the chassis. Try levering it to establish wear.
This one's more difficult, especially on the right because the exhaust gets in the way. Unbolt the whole assembly and then extract the bush. That needs extreme ingenuity, or a proper press, or a garage.
Caution - I found the bolts into the chassis box section tended to rip when undone. Squirt in lots of WD40 first, and go slowly backwards and forwards a bit at a time.

5) Track rod ends, and steering rack joints and bushes.
Quite easy to establish wear, with an assistant. The TREs are straightforward to replace.

I hope this helps,
Cliff Pope

[Mike_Brace]

One other thing that also affects handling is steering geometry which benefits from laser setting. A car can seem to wander and feel imprecise with the geometry not correctly set. This is the last job after replacing any worn bushes or steering parts and is often neglected.

Mike

[Dr Phil]

Thank you folks!