Want more power.

[lukas]

After driving my 240 glt 87 for a few months now, and thouroughly enjoying it i might add, i would like to know what performance mods are out there and how effective they are. Idealy i would like the same driving enjoyment in dry conditions as i can have in the wet. Any recomendations?

[Mike_Brace]

I've covered this one before and have attached our handling mods info. The biggest improvement in handling particularly in wet is tyres and going larger I always run on Stunners which perform exceptionally in the wet. The larger width is very inportant. As regards performance mods, the engine as standard in good condition and tune performs well (remember to dump the rev limiter rotor for a pre 1980 one). The first direction is to fit a Jetex sports system which helps the gas flow better and improves fuel economy by 1-2mpg. The difference we have found is that many motorway hills when towing can be cleared in a higher gear. After this you are looking at things such as headwork to achieve any further power. If you want to go down this route after the exhaust go to www.turbobricks.com - that's where all us rwd redblock nuts hang out. Use the search facility and you should find anything you want. Over here in the UK I am probably one of those with the most 240 knowledge and am always happy to talk Volvo with any fellow enthusiast. All our 240s are modded and well respected locally. Hope this points you in the right direction



Classic Swede

Tally Ho! Rhosgoch, Anglesey, LL66 0AB

01407 832290


240 Suspension Upgrade

Below are listed are recommendations for upgrading the handling of a Volvo 240:

1) The single easiest greatest improvement comes from changing to alloys such as the GLT 5 spokes. These should be fitted with a 205/60R15 H rated tyre. The quality of tyre is important - some of the ones on the market can be crap in the wet.

2) Replacing shocks and springs. Our experience show that attention to this area also produces great improvements. We have tried various set-ups over the years and found the following to be best:
Front - lowering springs combined with the Bilstein monotube shocks.
Rear - progressive standard height ‘cargo’ springs with Spax adjustable shocks.
This set-up really improves front end feel and stick ability whilst maintaining load and towing ability.

3) Anti-roll bars - it pays to fit a good anti-roll bar - standard GLT is quite good but obviously a set up such as the IPD will give some further improvements.

4) Re-bushing - It is important to ensure that all front and rear bushing including anti roll bar is in good condition. Standard rubber bushing is quite good but there are obviously gains to be achieved from going to polybushes. At this time I always recommend renewing engine and gearbox mount. A poly gearbox mount with genuine Volvo diesel engine mounts seem to work well to ensure that engine and box stay in place long term.

For value for money the first three items are essential whilst the IPD anti-roll bars and polybushing are quite a lot of money for a lesser gain. There are also benefits to be had from strut and chassis bracing.

Our own vehicles are set up on lowering as per spec with GLT anti-roll bars and new rubber bushing (except anti-roll bar link rods which are poly). This set up provides very good handling whilst retaining good comfort and towing capabilities. Our experience is that few other cars can take the twisties as rapidly as our vehicles. Indeed on one occasion one of our cars seriously outhandled an unmarked police T5 through bends and our GLT was also regularly closing on a motorbike through the bends.

If you require further information including costs please contact us.


Mike

[TheJoyOfSix]

Aye, I'd have to agree with Mike there - it's a toss up between him and Ravennexus as to who has the most 240 knowledge here (Ravens' car is one sweet, quick 240).

Re getting more out of a redblock, turbobricks is indeed the best resource for you - you can '+t' (ie add a turbo) to yours quite easily. Equally if you want to go the normally aspirated route Raven and Foggyjames both have uprated redblocks with Foggy getting 140bhp out of his 2.0litre on twin carbs and he's yet to improve the ignition side of things

[T240]

Hi,

The very best site regarding 240 mods (particularly useful, and intense on the suspension front)with links to everywhere, is: http://wwwrsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh110/turbo_world.htm

Otherwise known as Anthony Hyde's Volvo Turbo World.

I'm afraid I have to disagree with Mike on the tyre size; apart from other potential problems (more anon)if you go to 205/60 15 the rolling radius is all wrong, and you need the speedo recalibrating; for the miniscule gain made in going 10mm wider in section, it's not worth the hassle anyway.
That said, I do agree that you should never ever fool yourself into believing cheap tyres are the equal of quality brands - they emphatically are NOT!

The formula for working out correct tyre sizes is as follows:

If sticking with the original rim diameter, you go up 2 sections, and down a profile. i.e. for a 240 GLT on 195/60 15 that would mean going to 215/50 15 which quite apart from being too wide for a 6 inch rim (larger than 195 section tyres on a 6 inch rim have actually been proven to roll on the rim - not very helpful when pressing on to say the least!)it isn't an available size anyway.

More normal practice is to use the second part of the formula:

Go up 1 rim size, up 1 tyre section, and down 1 profile.

i.e. for a GLT on a 6x15 rim = 7x16 and 205/50 16
or 7x17 and 215/40 17

Both of which will give the same rolling radius as the original; but you should remember that for every profile dropped there is a deterioration in the ride quality as the side walls from 50 series downwards is progressively hard to immovable (that's how you get the manifold gain in grip as the stiffer side wall forces the tread down flat onto the tarmac) - particularly when uprating the shock abosorber, spring and anti-roll bar rates. Deterioration is even more marked when you replace ALL the bushes with the polyurethane items available.

The best way around the deterioration in ride quality problem is to go the Lotus route: (relatively) soft, but shorter springs, and harder shock abosrbers. A very good compromise for road use is to get new springs made up of the standard rate, but 35mm shorter (any shorter and you run into major geometry problems), then get a good set of adjustable shock absorbers/struts. Koni are the very best, and are the only ones which are adjustable without having to remove them.

As for bushes, for road use it's best to go the partial poly route, and replace the rest with the hard rubber originals; one or two of the poly bushes available aren't a direct replacement anyway.

It's a good starting point.

T