General: E46 Bi-Xenon (budget) retrofit

[T5R92011]

Originally Posted by domhart10

Hey guys, thinking of doing this now, but have absolutly no idea what to get really.

What is the difference between the DS2, H7 D1S? Is it just the standard H7 I need? Is it possible to convert the standard H7 headlights to have both the dipped and the full beam?

To keep it simple:

All three allow the dipped beam shutter to open, thus assisting the main beam (just plug the two wires into the main beam connector plug)

H7 is the safest most hassle free option. Bang in a couple of the best quality halogen bulbs you can find, adjust the height and you will have very good headlights that will be night and day better than the old worn headlamps. You can buy cheaper end HID kits with H7 HID bulbs, but the quality isnt as good as proper HID bulbs, though I can attest that they are still extremely bright, but you will find inconsistencies between two bulbs etc.

DS2 and D1S are HID bulb fitments for OEM HID bulb manufactuers like Philips, Osram etc. If you want to go hardcore and use expensive HID bulbs like Lizard has done then those are the fitments to go for. One problem with this route is that come MOT time, you will need to swap back to halogen projectors & bulbs or will likely be an MOT fail for the HID kit. It is also worth considering that if your HID kit fails while you are driving at night, you will be stuffed as you wont be able to throw in some halogens as a replacement.

It is worth noting that these cars (with regular halogen bulbs) run a pulse width modulation setup on the headlights which a lot of HID kits DO NOT LIKE, also the headlights share an earth with the windscreen wiper motor and it has been know that the PWM system can cause the windscreen wiper motor chip to burn out if a HID kit is fitted.

[Cornish Expat]

My retrofit labs h7 projectors arrived today and I’m going to be using them with halogens but wiring in the shutter, at risk of asking a really noddy question are the projectors left/right sided? The only difference in markings on them is one has a “1” embossed in a corner, the other has a “2” however everything else looks identical. The only writing on the boxes is from the quality checker.

[Sidonas]

No difference between them.

Tip: When screwing them in, apply some clockwise pressure before fully fastening the screws. From what I've seen, they always end up malrotated counterclockwise by a few degrees. I fixed mine by doing this.

[rxtian]

Originally Posted by Cornish Expat

My retrofit labs h7 projectors arrived today and I’m going to be using them with halogens but wiring in the shutter, at risk of asking a really noddy question are the projectors left/right sided? The only difference in markings on them is one has a “1” embossed in a corner, the other has a “2” however everything else looks identical. The only writing on the boxes is from the quality checker.

If you have the Volvo lenses with the little squares (not the fresnel lines), it’s worth swapping the lenses into the new projectors - see my thread about doing the same as you here: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=291829

[Bendolfc]

Just ordered a pair myself having put it off for the past year because I was going to get rid of the car but now changed my mind.

At 14 years old and 210K on the clock, they have got to the point where an unlit road is near impossible without high beam.

[wanamees]

Ill post some more detailed images tomorrow.

Received the projectors, ordered H7 ones as I had high quality led bulbs.
LED H7 bulbs do not fit with retrofit clips to e46 lens (at least these ones) - its too steep and led bulb has quite wide cooling fan area right after bulb.

Where theres a problem, there is a soltion. I used the original Volvo clips and swrewed them under the e46 projector clip holder ring (or whatever it is) - worked like a charm, although taking out a bulb now takes few minutes, instead of few seconds.

One of my original projectors was very much burned out, thus the really poor light output on left side. Other one was perfect, but still poor.

Only thing I can see immidieately is the much talked quite narrow beam (yes my lights need adjusting are are even more narrow than they should be). Will use fog lights or might try Volvo fresnel lenses at some point.

http://www.jipikaje.ee/volvo/e46bixenon.jpg

[Cornish Expat]

Originally Posted by rxtian

If you have the Volvo lenses with the little squares (not the fresnel lines), it’s worth swapping the lenses into the new projectors - see my thread about doing the same as you here: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=291829

I’ve got the pre face lift (2006) lenses unfortunately. I take it the only way to get the newer lenses is to get a pair of headlights from a FL car and bin everything else?

Having fitted the projectors I’m getting much more light on the road but the beam is narrower and I still need to adjust the headlights up. Definitely recommend ditching the old projectors.

Is it me being picky or should I be disappointed the high beam splitter ordered from RFL has a different plug from the shutter motor also ordered from RFL meaning its not plug and play?

[LizardOfBodom]

Interesting read, thanks guys for the pics of LEDs.
Heard of Hikari brand before, good to see the comparison between cheapos and those.

wanmees - narrow beam is an issue, yes, but DONT use fresnel lenses - your beam pattern with blurry cutoffs will become dangerous for other users as you will blind them as hell - those lenses were never designed for HIDs (OEM HIDs are different type, clear lenses) and will cause more harm than good.

cornish - I wouldnt worry much about the splitter, on my second retro I just did the cable splicing myself so you can easily mod the one you got. If you are really picky you can maybe contact RFL and ask for refund, but its probably not worth it.

[wanamees]

Here are some more pictures.
This is the difference with original H7 and retrofit H7 socket and clip.

http://www.jipikaje.ee/volvo/bmw01.jpg
http://www.jipikaje.ee/volvo/bmw02.jpg

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Original and reto projector side by side.
The original one on pictures is the good one (other is burnt out).

http://www.jipikaje.ee/volvo/bmw03.jpg
http://www.jipikaje.ee/volvo/bmw04.jpg
http://www.jipikaje.ee/volvo/bmw05.jpg

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Here is the burnt one, light from this one was very poor.
Years (300000 kilometers) of high output h7 halogens have burned them quite badly.

http://www.jipikaje.ee/volvo/burnt.jpg

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I still need the do the final adjustment, as I didnt have my measuring tape with me (still they show a bit too center). But overall very pleased with the result. Will try to do sone high quality photos and quick videos later.

So these images are with retrofitlab projector and hikari ultra leds (fogs are off - ordered leds to fogs also).
Im planning to polish the plastiv on lights also, as one of them is bacdly chipped and the other one is a bit better.

Although V50 has quite nice high beam in opinion from factory, it now seems quite weak compare to lowbeam I might try connectig bixenon functionality or just replace high beam bulbs at some point.

[LizardOfBodom]

Originally Posted by wanamees

...I might try connectig bixenon functionality or just replace high beam bulbs at some point.

Do both! Bi-xenon shutter is there for the reason, it wants to be connected!! FYI, I did some testing with bixenon ONLY (high-beam bulbs disabled) and althought it do work and release full beam, it provides less condensed and shorter light output than high-beam reflectors. It was clear that I am missing the hotspot shooting into distance and if I had to choose - would prefer single xenon + oem high beam, but fortunately we can have both.
I replaced high-beam bulbs with Osram Nightbreaker Laser. Didnt try LEDs there, but I actually find the "yellowish" tint helping, I think it works really well combined with bixenon cool white output. See the pics below:
low beam vs bi-xenon shutter opened vs bixenon opened+high beam