D5 185bhp boost issues

[Scruffd5]

Hi,
I’m after some advice or direction where to go with my Volvo v70. I’ve recently developed a boost problem with my car which in turn is making it go into limp mode. On acceleration the turbo stops boosting and comes up with the engine system service message on the dashboard, I’ve had the car plugged in and it came up with the following codes
1507 turbo control too low pressure
1320 air mass faulty
1330 air mass faulty
135f mass airflow sensor faulty signal
56ff oil quality temperature sensor faulty signal.
The car also has the thumping noise through the air box which I’m led to believe is faulty lifters.
I took the car to a local garage( not a Volvo specialist) who plugged the car in again and said that the dpf level of soot was 29.98g. Their thinking was the dpf was blocked not allowing the engine to breathe in or out resulting in the Maf sensor not reading right. When they went to clear the codes the only one that remained was the level sensor which was reading a minus figure. They managed to do a forced regen which worked by reducing the soot level down to 14g and the thumping noise had disappeared when the revs are picked up but return when it goes back to idle.
After spending £400 on the car £200 for sensor and the rest labour the car is still going into limp mode on boost and the above faults returning.
Any help would be great as I’m at a loss and £400 lighter in the pocket

[stegreg]

have you checked the turbo inlet rubber hose, make sure it hasn't gone super soft and torn.. also try blocking off the vac hose for the engine mounts, just incase you're loosing vac pressure due to a duff mount too. I have 2 duff engine mounts on mine, but until I can get to replace them, ive simply blocked off the vac supply to the mounts [remove hose from T piece] and don't get issues that way. couple of ideas.

[Scruffd5]

I’ve checked the pipe work no visible splits or signs of oil I’ve blanked off one engine mount when I first had the car 2 years ago only due to the popping noise I had from the rocker cover, I’ll check the rear one tomorrow.
When the car is boosting you can hear a hissing sound but as it’s gone into limp mode I can’t get the car to boost as I cannot cancel the codes.
I changed the bottom hose of the turbo from the resonator box to a hose but that seems to be ok as it’s been on the car well before the problem started.
Don’t know wether to buy a new mag sensor to see if that cures it.

[camturbo]

Have you checked that the turbo actuator is working and the turbo vanes aren't sticking.

[The Landshark]

Have a look at the turbo resonator seals under the engine at the back, mine blew out and gave similar codes, maf too high and pressure too low,
the resonator lives on the back of the pipe coming forward from under the engine to the intercooler, its worth looking at the intercooler too.
the hissing noise you hear may be escaping air.
You have other problems too but what that is I don't know.

[Scruffd5]

Originally Posted by camturbo

Have you checked that the turbo actuator is working and the turbo vanes aren't sticking.

I haven’t checked the actuator on the turbo as it’s a electronic one not a vacuum operated type.
Is there a way to check by pulling the module off or disconnecting something on the turbo to see if I can move it by hand?

[Scruffd5]

Originally Posted by The Landshark

Have a look at the turbo resonator seals under the engine at the back, mine blew out and gave similar codes, maf too high and pressure too low,
the resonator lives on the back of the pipe coming forward from under the engine to the intercooler, its worth looking at the intercooler too.
the hissing noise you hear may be escaping air.
You have other problems too but what that is I don't know.

I’ve changed the resonator box to a hose as I had that problem previously.
I’ve had a look at the hose and can see no visible signs of splits in it, I can’t check with the engine running as it’s in limp mode and don’t have the box to plug in to cancel the codes.

[camturbo]

Yep its electronic same as mine. I had 1507 on mine,the actuator is held on by 3 bolts I think and a small circlip which holds the actuator to the arm. The electronic part of mine was goosed which was making engine work harder causing more soot etc. Becareful removing circlip as ut may ping off into engine. Least you can see if the vanes are free. I'm only going on my issues yours may be different. Hopefully someone with more knowledge than me might be able to further assist.

[Scruffd5]

Originally Posted by camturbo

Yep its electronic same as mine. I had 1507 on mine,the actuator is held on by 3 bolts I think and a small circlip which holds the actuator to the arm. The electronic part of mine was goosed which was making engine work harder causing more soot etc. Becareful removing circlip as ut may ping off into engine. Least you can see if the vanes are free. I'm only going on my issues yours may be different. Hopefully someone with more knowledge than me might be able to further assist.

Cheers for that I’ll give it a go tomorrow. Clutching at straws at the minute as I’m not sure if it’s one fault causing all the problems or a combination of a few different things.

[JE Jr]

Hi! Go for a leak check on the intake side.

A friend had issues with intercooler being bad and leaked. Hard to spot with out pressure/smoke test complete intake or removing intercooler to check it.