|
PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
Information |
|
tuning a b18aViews : 21270 Replies : 146Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
Nov 14th, 2009, 11:35 | #1 |
foot in mouth specialist
Last Online: Sep 6th, 2016 22:55
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Dublin, Ireland
|
tuning a b18a
gents,
i wonder if you can offer suggestion on the following? i'm starting to put together a plan to uprate the engine on my '66 b18a. i've been searching around on the web for the most appropriate jobs to do, and so far, i think,order to get up to about 130bhp, the things i might do are engine: 1. twin SU HS6 1.75's plus inlet manifold 2. 4-2-1 exhaust manifold 3. simonz sport exhaust 4. k cam (i believe this is an improved d cam) 5. mill the cylinder head down 2mm (for more compression and maybe convert to unleaded whilst it's out.) before i start collecting the parts for the Spring.. am i going the right way? any tips, suggestions, advice greatfully appreciated.. ta, Gareth |
Nov 14th, 2009, 13:24 | #2 |
Chief Bodger
Last Online: Today 05:59
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aberdeen
|
Hi Gareth,
I'm new to this but will give you a run down to what I know. Good gains to be had with porting and polishing the head and I think getting the inlet and outlet flowing better is the best idea. You're doing some improvements to the exhaust which is good and a 4 2 1 manifold is a good choice for a road car. A mild porting job can be done yourself or if you are to go further best to get someone with experience with the engine. One suggestion is to bore the engine to a B20, stick in B20 pistons and put a port and polished B20E head on. The B20E head will give you the gains you're after or if you really want to modify the head go for a B20F head but you shouldn't need to to get 130bhp. I'd suggest bronze valve guides, and good quality stainless exhaust valves with hardened seats for running normal unleaded with a B20E head with the higher compression. If you want you could put in larger inlet valve and deshroud the valves which will increase combustion chamber volume and lower the compression ratio a bit. Best to get a experienced shop to do this. You can make some improvements with the SU carbs, suggest buying; How to build and power tune SU carburettors and they will do the job for 130bhp. Regarding the cam, don't discount the standard cam for road use. I'd suggest first decide on what head, carb and exhaust modifications you want to make and then speak to someone about a choice of cam. KG trimning or Sten Parner in Sweden are two companies that have helped me out. Also Simon at Brookhouse is a really helpful guy. Mitch |
The Following User Says Thank You to Burdekin For This Useful Post: |
Nov 14th, 2009, 13:37 | #3 |
Experienced Member
Last Online: Today 11:30
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: L/H side
|
regarding camshafts in the 140 B20 tuning kit , that had great top end power but getting up a slope from the garage to the road made it hard going you had to take a run at it ! Running under 3000 rpm with a sporty camshaft is going to drink fuel . You would be surprised how nice a standard B20E engine is ...
__________________
My comments are only based on my opinions and vast experience . |
Nov 14th, 2009, 16:02 | #4 |
complete member
Last Online: Apr 25th, 2024 13:56
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Wootton, Bedfordshire
|
Gareth, the list of mods sounds good.. much the same as I did to my B18A, though my head was gasflowed, as was the inlet manifold. To be honest, I've never been too impressed with my K cam, if I was doing it again I would try another cam, maybe the D cam as a previous amazon I owned had this and went better for everyday driving, though the K goes well at high revs. A 123 dizzy could be worth a go from what I've heard.
I did have twin Weber 42 DCOE carbs which gave bags more torque over the SU's, I'd like to try either a single 45DCOE or 4 bike carbs and a Bog Bros made manifold.
__________________
'68 Ruddspeed tuned 121 |
Nov 14th, 2009, 17:03 | #5 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Dec 21st, 2021 12:24
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Hereford - Where the best cider comes from....
|
If you are thinking of changing the cam you should also consider changing the timing gear to steel rather than the fibre one. A bit noisier but much safer.
|
Nov 14th, 2009, 20:16 | #6 |
Master Member
|
Remember that the original cams are designed some 40 years ago. The're modern camgrinds at the market which do much better then the D&K cam. A drawback is the costs, think about twice as much as the old cams. I really like the TT5 cam. Drove an amazon B18 with twin SU's and a 4-2-1. Very impressive torque in the low revs that kept on going and going till 5500rpm.
This TT5 set costs €225. If you choose for the original cams I would advice the D instead of the K. D has more torque in the lower revs, the K has more power in the higher revs but not that much. In every day use the D is more fun. It's a pitty this dutch site isn't available in english; http://www.tinustechniek.nl/1-onderdelen-motor-int.html
__________________
|
The Following User Says Thank You to B20F For This Useful Post: |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|