Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > S40 / V40 '96-'04 General

Notices

S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004.

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

99 s40 lower balljoint replacement-pitfalls

Views : 1654

Replies : 9

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Aug 22nd, 2015, 11:28   #1
Miketwovolvos
Miketwovolvos
 

Last Online: Jun 5th, 2022 14:54
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Birmingham
Default 99 s40 lower balljoint replacement-pitfalls

Just passing this on for the benefit of those with a clunking front end over speed bumps and play in the lower control arm balljoint. Haynes says you can't replace them, but they are pressed into the control arm and the balljoints are available cheap 8 quid or so or better 12-14 quid. In my experience with Chinese-made stuff, don't go cheap. My first prob was that my Chinese-made balljoint scissor type splitter snapped, so I struggled to remove the joint. You can only use an open ended spanner to undo the bolt (19mm)on the balljoint, which is not that easy as it has a plastic threadlock type thing in it. Improvised a tool to crack open the balljoint and then its obvious why the control arm has to come off to get the balljpoint out, there is no space to work around the hub/strut assembly. The pivot bolt at the top of the control arm is a 17 mm long nut and bolt and its torqued at 66 so its not too hard to remove, although you might have to remove the bottom engine cover to get at the nut. The back bolts that (17 again I think, 66 torque)fit to the car body just go into captive threads in the body so they are not too hard to remove. The problems start when you try to remove the balljoint. I tried pressing it out with the vice, but no chance. A hydraulic press is ideal, but you can whack it repeatedly with an old socket (over it) with a lump hammer. Support the edge of the control arm on some wood. Eventually it comes off, but a bit of heat to the end of the arm really helps this plus some WD40. Next, clean up the arm and check the bushings. If they are OK, I treated the control arm with phosphoric acid (40%) then some underbody paint. Youtube guys say you can tap the joints into the arm with a hammer-Ha Ha Ha, no you can't. If you measure the new balljoint it is slightly oversized, but it has little ridges on the edge which collapse when it is inserted to really grip the arm. This is definitely a once only insertion, so to speak. Indeed, pressing the joint in is not easy at all. I made a steel tube (from part of an old 940 exhaust) which fitted over and cleared the top of the joint and then used a thick washer on the bottom of the joint so I didn't distort the balljoint base . Then I put it in a vice. It is really a struggle to get it to go in straight, but with a little WD it will go in. Then getting the circlip on really finds your Chinese circlip pliers out...Next, get the rubber boot and degrease the inside. THen degrease the balljoint shaft and then fit the boot over the balljoint shank. This makes it easy to engage the balljoint shank with the hub without getting any grease in there, as it is a friction joint and no grease should be around. Then you can replace the control arm, by engaging the pivot first and getting the bolt through, followed by the back bolts. Then the balljoint, pivot bolt and rear bolts are all in finger tight, then its all torqued up. The balljoint nut should be 55 lbft but you can only get an open ended spanner in, as it will trap a ratchet ring spanner...(nasty) so that means just make it fairly tight. I use a Metrinch spanner, which does not stress the edges of the bolt, which really helps. Forgot to mention, that you shouldn't torque up fully the control arm pivot joint until the car is sitting settled on the road, which by the side of the road is a pain. I have to say that it was hard work without a hoist and I think its one of those jobs you do if you are a bit of a fanatic, have really good tools made by an organisation other than a Chinese factory or if you are a bit broke or marooned on a small island. I am sure many of you out there would do it quicker though!

Last edited by Miketwovolvos; Aug 22nd, 2015 at 14:17.
Miketwovolvos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Aug 23rd, 2015, 16:55   #2
ITSv40
VOC Member
 

Last Online: Today 15:19
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northampton
Default

Your description of the job is exactly as I imagined it would be, a right ball ache. That's the reason I have always dropped two complete arms on when needed. Makes it so much easier.
ITSv40 is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ITSv40 For This Useful Post:
Old Aug 23rd, 2015, 17:27   #3
kieran40
I've Been Banned
 

Last Online: Mar 4th, 2023 13:36
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: paignton
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ITSv40 View Post
Your description of the job is exactly as I imagined it would be, a right ball ache. That's the reason I have always dropped two complete arms on when needed. Makes it so much easier.
For the sake of just over £100 for two I would opt that way too I think.

A mate of mine just wacks the old ones out with a old hammer and pushes them in with a great big c clamp.
kieran40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Aug 23rd, 2015, 18:00   #4
ITSv40
VOC Member
 

Last Online: Today 15:19
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northampton
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kieran40 View Post
For the sake of just over £100 for two I would opt that way too I think.

A mate of mine just wacks the old ones out with a old hammer and pushes them in with a great big c clamp.
I know some people pay good money to have pain inflicted, but not me, I prefer to pay and leave the pain to others. Also I would worry that they might come loose, given the stresses on suspension parts.
ITSv40 is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ITSv40 For This Useful Post:
Old Aug 23rd, 2015, 21:15   #5
Slevin
Master Member
 
Slevin's Avatar
 

Last Online: Mar 25th, 2024 16:08
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: London
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ITSv40 View Post
I know some people pay good money to have pain inflicted, but not me, I prefer to pay and leave the pain to others. Also I would worry that they might come loose, given the stresses on suspension parts.
I did that once,it popped out on the test drive.I was lucky as i was driving slowly.Swapped the whole arms after that.
Slevin is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Slevin For This Useful Post:
Old Aug 25th, 2015, 22:41   #6
timmytarmac
Senior Member
 

Last Online: Mar 4th, 2020 01:01
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: surrey
Default

Same happened with me slevin I spent all that time naffing around with the ball joints and for them to drop out after a 5 minute drive. New arms from Febi wish I had just done that first. Well done for giving it a go and I hope they stay in place for you
__________________

Volvo V40 1.9 Diesel 121k.........
Black Sapphire Metallic
timmytarmac is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to timmytarmac For This Useful Post:
Old Jun 26th, 2017, 13:39   #7
Miketwovolvos
Miketwovolvos
 

Last Online: Jun 5th, 2022 14:54
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Birmingham
Default

16K miles later and its all good
Miketwovolvos is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Miketwovolvos For This Useful Post:
Old Jul 12th, 2019, 16:30   #8
Miketwovolvos
Miketwovolvos
 

Last Online: Jun 5th, 2022 14:54
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Birmingham
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Miketwovolvos View Post
Just passing this on for the benefit of those with a clunking front end over speed bumps and play in the lower control arm balljoint. Haynes says you can't replace them, but they are pressed into the control arm and the balljoints are available cheap 8 quid or so or better 12-14 quid. In my experience with Chinese-made stuff, don't go cheap. My first prob was that my Chinese-made balljoint scissor type splitter snapped, so I struggled to remove the joint. You can only use an open ended spanner to undo the bolt (19mm)on the balljoint, which is not that easy as it has a plastic threadlock type thing in it. Improvised a tool to crack open the balljoint and then its obvious why the control arm has to come off to get the balljpoint out, there is no space to work around the hub/strut assembly. The pivot bolt at the top of the control arm is a 17 mm long nut and bolt and its torqued at 66 so its not too hard to remove, although you might have to remove the bottom engine cover to get at the nut. The back bolts that (17 again I think, 66 torque)fit to the car body just go into captive threads in the body so they are not too hard to remove. The problems start when you try to remove the balljoint. I tried pressing it out with the vice, but no chance. A hydraulic press is ideal, but you can whack it repeatedly with an old socket (over it) with a lump hammer. Support the edge of the control arm on some wood. Eventually it comes off, but a bit of heat to the end of the arm really helps this plus some WD40. Next, clean up the arm and check the bushings. If they are OK, I treated the control arm with phosphoric acid (40%) then some underbody paint. Youtube guys say you can tap the joints into the arm with a hammer-Ha Ha Ha, no you can't. If you measure the new balljoint it is slightly oversized, but it has little ridges on the edge which collapse when it is inserted to really grip the arm. This is definitely a once only insertion, so to speak. Indeed, pressing the joint in is not easy at all. I made a steel tube (from part of an old 940 exhaust) which fitted over and cleared the top of the joint and then used a thick washer on the bottom of the joint so I didn't distort the balljoint base . Then I put it in a vice. It is really a struggle to get it to go in straight, but with a little WD it will go in. Then getting the circlip on really finds your Chinese circlip pliers out...Next, get the rubber boot and degrease the inside. THen degrease the balljoint shaft and then fit the boot over the balljoint shank. This makes it easy to engage the balljoint shank with the hub without getting any grease in there, as it is a friction joint and no grease should be around. Then you can replace the control arm, by engaging the pivot first and getting the bolt through, followed by the back bolts. Then the balljoint, pivot bolt and rear bolts are all in finger tight, then its all torqued up. The balljoint nut should be 55 lbft but you can only get an open ended spanner in, as it will trap a ratchet ring spanner...(nasty) so that means just make it fairly tight. I use a Metrinch spanner, which does not stress the edges of the bolt, which really helps. Forgot to mention, that you shouldn't torque up fully the control arm pivot joint until the car is sitting settled on the road, which by the side of the road is a pain. I have to say that it was hard work without a hoist and I think its one of those jobs you do if you are a bit of a fanatic, have really good tools made by an organisation other than a Chinese factory or if you are a bit broke or marooned on a small island. I am sure many of you out there would do it quicker though!


AAAAAREGGGHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ALL THIS HAS JUST HAPPENED TO ME AGAIN BUT WORSE AS THE BALLJOINT WAS TOO SMALL SO I HAD TO SHIM IT!!>>HAVE I LEARNED NOTHING IN 4 years?

Last edited by Miketwovolvos; Jul 12th, 2019 at 16:41.
Miketwovolvos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 12th, 2019, 16:35   #9
Miketwovolvos
Miketwovolvos
 

Last Online: Jun 5th, 2022 14:54
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Birmingham
Default

Have calmed down now...yes, many places want to sell you the whole arm with its two bushings and a balljoint. The annoying thing is that the bushings last forever if properly fitted (as the guy above did with the car down on its wheels) So the balljoint is the wear item. The arms are about 50-60 quid, but the joints are 10-15 quid depending on quality..if my point about the smaller balljoint diameters is true, then if my shimming efforts fail, it may well be a new control arm in the future its so much easier, apart from the pain in the backside to remove the balljoint from the hub
Miketwovolvos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 12th, 2019, 16:37   #10
Miketwovolvos
Miketwovolvos
 

Last Online: Jun 5th, 2022 14:54
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Birmingham
Default

in fact, a friend of mines Chinese balljoint spitter snapped on him too..their tools are rubbish..I bought a pickle fork which does the job. I love it when Edd China just whacks them with a hammer...I have never ever had a balljoint come off with that, it is always a terrible struggle

Last edited by Miketwovolvos; Jul 12th, 2019 at 16:40.
Miketwovolvos is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 15:32.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.