Changing the clutch on a V40 2.0 L (2000) year model

Has anybody out there had the 'misfortune' to have changed the clutch on a V40 2.0 litre (2000 year)non turbo model.

Are there any pitfalls that I should be aware of?

It looks like I will have to purchase 2 special Volvo tools to release the self adjusting mechanism and the other to depress the diaphram. A Volvo tech has assured me that not using these tools will have a high chance of damaging the clutch friction plate, does anybody have these tools I could hire or buy?

Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated

P.H.

[Dickymint]

I have changed the clutch on my 1997 V40 with no problems, but certain models have a special clutch system, whereby you must replace the flywheel as well. This is a very expensive system and in a lot of cases, its cheaper to check out a gearbox repair centre, as they will replace the clutch usually for a lot less money!
If your car has the standard clutch assembly, its quite easy, and no special tools, except for an alignment tool are necessary.

RF

I know some models have a dual mass flywheel that has caused problems, especially on the AUDI A4. I am crossing my fingers that it won't need changing as they are in excess of £400.

PM !!

Not having much experience with forums, could you please explain what PM means?

Many thanks

P.H

Sorry,

Personal Message

Goto the user menu, then click on your inbox

hope it helps

[scottishvolvo]

How would you know if the car had one of those strange flywheels
Chris

I'm afraid I'm no expert, I found out by talking to the nice parts man at my local volvo dealer, he checked my chassis number on his magic telly and gave me the details (or bad news if its worn circa £450). if it needs replacing I'm going down the scrap yard.

I believe it works on the same principle as a motorcycle cush drive in the rear wheel, whats wrong with slipping the clutch to reduce shock loading to the gearbox? feats of new technology.

Hope this helps

P.H.

I have just taken delivery of the clutch diaphram compressor, this will save me time and possible damage to the new clutch as you can place the clutch housing onto the flywheel/friction plate straight away as it doesn't need slowly tightening the clutch housing to compress the diaphram slowly and evenly using the housing bolts, as recomended by some clutch installers.

Word of caution, do not over tighten tool compression as it can spring out and can damage the tool, your fingers and clutch housing.

The centering tool is a great help, as you can't fit a standard generic clutch centering tool as it won't fit inside the compression tool, canny fellows these Volvo designers.

I am attempting the clutch change next weekend weather permitting.

I have just finished changing the clutch, all went well and with my type of clutch the diaphram depression tool came in handy. The drive plate protrudes by 14 mm from the housing and the bolts are too short to compress the clutch. I could have used longer bolts to start the process off but it is quite easy to damage the friction plate doing this way as you have to tighten progressively to keep the pressure even.

I must say that it has been a pleasure to work on the Volvo, not one bolt seized, or sheared and no sign of corrsion rusting on any bolt.

It took the best part of 5 hours including filling the gearbox with oil which turned out to be most difficult thing to do (confined access) so it has saved me about £700 (including parts).

Many thanks to Alfonzobonzo for his help.