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S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models |
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Drivers Information Module (DIM) diy repairViews : 146831 Replies : 226Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 3rd, 2009, 16:53 | #1 |
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Last Online: May 23rd, 2024 21:22
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Andover
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Drivers Information Module (DIM) diy repair
Recently, thanks to Budulan, I've managed to repair my faulty DIM from my '03 S80 D5 SE Auto, and took photos whilst I had it apart. I had the SRS warning, occasional loss of green indicator arrows, and jittering un-readable dim display.
I firstly disconnected the battery and left for a good while before starting. To remove the dim on my car you firstly remove three screws from beneath the steering wheel housing and then carefully loosen the upper half. There are then two screws in the upper face of the dim surround. The two surrounds are connected and lift out together. There are then four screws holding the dim in place and one multiplug to remove once it's out. 185 shows the rear face of the dim on which I've marked the 7 scews to remove with a black blob. You can then lift off the white plastic back. You can see a further 8 screws each with a white marker square on the pcb. The pcb now lifts off as in 189, and turned over in 190. The chip with bad contacts is the one on the right with the blue varnish removed. I used acetone and cotton buds along each edge and on top of the chip to remove all the varnish. 198 shows the chip cleaned. I then simply worked my way along each side with a fine pointed soldering iron to re-set the joints. The first time I did it, I only did one side nearest the centre of the pcb and it cured some of the faults but not all. The second time I did all four sides much more systematically so that I know every joint was re-made. I used liquid flux and repeatedly tinned the tip to maintain good contact and to keep the tip clean. This is very difficult to do as you need a powerful magnifying glass to see and a steady hand on the iron. I then used self adhesive heat sinks as on 203 just in case overheating was the cause. After 200 miles it's all working correctly. I'm happy to help anyone with their dim - give me a ring on 01792 545880. |
Jun 3rd, 2009, 18:00 | #2 |
Volvo S80 SE Owner
Last Online: Jul 24th, 2023 18:57
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Westcliff on Sea
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I don't suppose you know what the SRS code that was stored was do you? Thanks very much for the info and pictures, it will be very helpful
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The Following User Says Thank You to jajrst For This Useful Post: |
Jun 3rd, 2009, 19:30 | #3 |
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Last Online: May 23rd, 2024 21:22
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Andover
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Stored codes
Yes - when I bought the car and started reading up about the faults I soon realised I wasn't going to resolve much without a code reader.
I bought the BSR one from Nordic and initially there were 21 fault codes stored, but all deleted and only 5 returned. The relevant ones are DIM 0006, orange warning lamp, and SRS 00D4 SRS, indicator lamp. The SRS warning and the light both disappeared after I soldered the side of the chip nearest the centre of the pcb at the first attempt, but the flickering readout and the missing green arrows made me take it out and do it again more thoroughly. I couldn't detect any loose or bad connection by eye, so I don't know how many there were, or where, but the method certainly works. Both the above fault codes deleted after re-fitting DIM and not recurring. |
Jun 3rd, 2009, 20:20 | #4 |
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Last Online: Oct 25th, 2011 21:27
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Location: Bedford
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cool, thought this deserved more than an automatics 'thanks' so - er.. THANKS!!
__________________
2003 (52) S60 D5 S |
Jun 3rd, 2009, 20:48 | #5 |
Volvo S80 SE Owner
Last Online: Jul 24th, 2023 18:57
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Westcliff on Sea
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Ah cool, thanks for the info. I'm trying to diagnose an air bag error, well have been for the last year or so lol. Mines' to do with the passenger air bag though (I bought the BSR too, What a great bit of kit!) so it can't be related unfortunately/fortunately. I have always thought it was a bad SRS module but the other day when it was 27 degrees, I reset the ABS light (I was cleaning the sensor and the engine light and ABS set permanently, all gone now) and the SRS light reset too much to my surprise, fine yesterday too, now its cooled down today, its back with a vengeance and won't reset. Must be a solder joint somewhere... more fiddling required
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Jun 3rd, 2009, 20:58 | #6 | |
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Last Online: Jan 26th, 2015 21:30
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Location: Billericay
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Quote:
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Jun 21st, 2009, 00:01 | #7 |
Senior Member
Last Online: May 23rd, 2024 21:22
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Andover
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DIY dim repair update
Well since I re-worked my dim I've covered about 2000 miles and it's still working ok. The only small problem I have is that occasionally the green turn lights and the clicking sound don't work even though the indicator lights are working correctly.
Does anyone know specifically which joints on the pcb might cause this problem? If so I'll have another go, but it's not a major problem. It happens say once a week. |
Aug 3rd, 2009, 17:36 | #8 |
Senior Member
Last Online: May 23rd, 2024 21:22
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Andover
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Further update on DIM repair
Well I've had to take it out again and have another go.
The green indicator lights and click gradually got worse until they stopped working altogether, although the indicators all continued to work. Also the orange warning triangle and SRS warning came back, and then finally the scrambled information screen. AAAAARRRRGGGHHHHH!!!!! So I spent a good four hours at the weekend and carefully re-soldered every joint on the pcb that I could get at. Fitted it back ........ and the clock and temp screen didn't work. Off again and eventually realised all that needed was a new bulb! So back in again and now all back together and working correctly. I hope it lasts longer than the last time. I've only done about 500 miles since the last post. This time I spent far longer on each of the joints and used more flux. I made absolutely sure that each joint was definitely melted. I was methodical and systematic. Last time I wasn't and may have missed a few or only partly did them. Some of the adjacent connections on the chip were soldered together (because my iron's a bit too big and spans the contacts) and so I had to use solder extractor and make sure they were separate before I moved along to the next one. I did nearly every joint on the board including the bigger ones that you'd think would be ok, so I'm now hoping that'll do the job. I'll update again in about a year! |
Aug 22nd, 2009, 21:59 | #9 |
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Last Online: Aug 25th, 2009 01:57
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: ogden, ut
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Lost it all
I got in my S80 T6. The the car started it. In runs fine but the entire dash is gone including the A/C. Any ideas?
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Sep 6th, 2009, 14:01 | #10 |
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Last Online: Oct 11th, 2019 21:59
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: West Kent
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I finally got around to resoldering my PCB yesterday. My clock, main beam light, seatbelt light and information module stopped working.
So I stripped off the blue gunk around the chip and then ran a soldering iron over the pins a few times to reset the solder. Well apart from a couple of blown bulbs (not new) it all seems to be working properly. Time will tell but it's encouraging! |
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