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Volvo 940 wont start.

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Old Apr 17th, 2018, 23:08   #11
Lolvo 940
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Hi yes just fitted the one from my other running 940.
Made no difference. Turned ignition on fuel pump primes then just cranks and cranks. And when you turn ignition on again doesn't prime???
Can only think its something silly? Would the rsr relay cause issues?
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Old Apr 17th, 2018, 23:15   #12
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what is the pressure at the fuel rail?
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Old Apr 17th, 2018, 23:15   #13
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I'd start checking for bad earths in that case.

As for the RSR relay, no, the fuel pump and it's relay are supplied from before the RSR, the RSR supplies the injectors.

Could be worth double-checking it in case though, someone may have had problems in the past and changed the wiring.
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Old Apr 17th, 2018, 23:31   #14
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Pass wouldn't know. Dont really have any way of checking with a gauge anyways?
Could the fuel pump itself be at fault?
Will check all earth's tomorrow. Are there any sensors that would stop the fuel pump?
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Old Apr 17th, 2018, 23:58   #15
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Possibly but if the car has been laid up a while, it's worth checking all the earths are good anyway. If one is getting warm when you turn the engine over, it might still have enough resistance to prevent the power getting through the second time of priming.
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Old Apr 18th, 2018, 04:24   #16
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The car isn't starting. This comes down to one of three things, fuel, spark, or compression. All three have relatively simple tests. None of these tests utilise your hearing as a diagnostic tool.

You will need one of these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Car-Truck-E...d=263028303905

and one of these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOMOTIV...sAAOSwG4xa1kVx

and one of these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIGITAL-M...sAAOSwujBZ2L~U

It helps to understand the engine systems. There are some very good documents available on this site that explain at both high level and detail level the operation of the 2.4 system. I strongly recommend making yourself familiar with them.
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Old Apr 18th, 2018, 11:32   #17
Laird Scooby
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I'd change the last item for this Ash - for an extra tenner you gain dwell and tach functions, duty cycle and a 20A high current range.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONGDA-HD...4AAOSwslRauI-j

Given that most meters of this sort are now made in China and are pretty much generic with simple brand (and maybe case colour) changes, unless i was using it everyday as part of my work i wouldn't bother going for a known brand, not when they're this cheap!

I've got a digital automotive multimeter lurking in my shed that i've had for some 25-30 years now, think it was made by Megger but might be AVO or Fluke but those three are all pretty much the same anyway, probably one of the first digital automotive meters. Cost me a lot when i bought it secondhand and i found the original purchase receipt for £380 + £70 for the leather case!

Shows how much they've come down in price!
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Old Apr 18th, 2018, 12:03   #18
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hiya dave - yeah I hate to think about what I used to have to pay for test kit bitd.

TBH, if I was going ot splash out a bit more, I'd look for a meter that had a graphing function (or even a digital scope as we've discussed before), but they are only useful if you know how to use it and what you are looking at. For most home mechanics a basic DVM is sufficient.

And a 20A option is just an invitation to melted test leads! I prefer my ammeters separate so I cant accidentally let smoke out. I get how they can be useful though.
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Old Apr 18th, 2018, 12:50   #19
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Its normal for 1997 to prime just once. It needs to be off for >10s before it will prime again. No idea why they did that its very annoying when diagnosing or opening the fuel system.

To check sparks, check that the rev counter is moving a little during cranking.

Priming once tends to mean fuel+relay is good.

If no rev counter flicker, then either crank sensor or ignition amp maybe.

Spark checkers (£16 in halfords) are handy to have.
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Old Apr 18th, 2018, 13:18   #20
Laird Scooby
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Test kit can be horrendously expensive Ash. About 20 ish years back i bought an insulation tester, RRP about £400 but i got it for £220 on a "trade deal".

Now you can pick them up new with an RRP of less than £100. Remember your first VHS video recorder? Probably the NZ equivalent of £4-600 ($8-1200?) and 10 years ago you could buy an el-cheapo version (because they were no longer desirable) that probably did all the very first ones did and more for £24.99 in the nearest Argos (a catalogue shop) but at the same time, their cheapest DVD player was only £39.99 (just reduced from £79.99) and came with 40 films on DVD as well!
Yes, the films were pretty carp but the kids loved them!

And yes, i paid £79.99 the previous week for that DVD player/film package!

Now they start at £19.99 in a choice of black or lurid pink!

http://www.argos.co.uk/browse/techno...pt/sort:price/

Meanwhile back in the real world................

a graphing function would be useful as would a 'scope. However even they can be bought cheaply as an add-on for a laptop :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TWF100-US...QAAOSw3q5aUx3n

That one also seems to be Android 4.0 or above compatible so arguably could be used on a smartphone.
Alternatively a dedicated hand-held 'scope with the option to upload to a laptop :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DS0150-TF...GsuaBi2wrwmUgQ

Granted they're entry level bits of kit but for the amount it would be used by the home mechanic, probably more than adequate.

Another way of doing it is to download an oscilloscope "freeware" program and use an audio-USB interface to connect to the latop :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-To-3-...0AAOSwal5YCISE

https://sound-card-oscilloscope.en.softonic.com/

It has a stereo mic input so that's 2 'scope channels and it protects your expensive laptop from unexpected over-voltage inputs.

Of course, neither will give the same results as a dedicated 'scope but if you're savvy enough to already know how to use one, it's a small step to using one of these and interpreting the results correctly.

For a novice it's a cheap way of finding out how they work and if it's possible to interpret results correctly.

For the keen electronics enthusiast, the humble LM3914, ten banks of 10 LEDs, a 555 timer and a 4017BE decade counter and some other associated components, a very simple, very basic 'scope could be built.

The 4017 would be arranged so that on the repeated clock impulses from the 555 the outputs would trigger the power to each LED array in turn, all of which would have their LED cathodes connected to the 3914 so as the voltage varied over time, the corresponding waveform would be displayed on the LEDs - crude but effective, especially for novices.

Here's a diagram that forms the basis of that circuit :



Instead of having two outputs "commoned" to feed one LED, have each output feeding the anode of each LED array so it's a continuous sweep instead of 1-6-1-6 up/down/up sweep.

Loads of options there for a "cheap" 'scope, some better than others!
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