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Oil Breathers / flame trap...

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Old Apr 27th, 2013, 10:52   #21
stephend
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FossilFish View Post
I think we can get away with removing box without disturbing the manifold just need a new o ring.
Depends which manifold you have. Unfortunately, if you have the older type with a flat top and the inlet pipes sloping down, the whole thing plus the K-jetronic assembly has to come off for access to the oil separator box. Not only is the separator box physically blocked by all these bits, from memory the bracket that holds the K-jet assembly has a bolt which secures both it and the oil separator to the block.
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Old Apr 27th, 2013, 17:41   #22
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Hi Guys
Thanks all for taking the trouble to post.
Don't know if it is just me, but can't seem to see the attachments when I open up the link to the previous post - any thoughts? This looks like a very useful post, but can't quite make out some of the notes provided on the pictures when I enlarge the photos in the post - as is mentioned I think I would need to be able to open separate attachments.

From what I can make out in the photos, I can't really recognise the fixing arrangements for the oil separator shown (two bolts in the block?) as being the same as my car, which is the B230FK. To be honest I've had my head stuck right in from all angles and can't see a bolt on arrangement like this, but the comment by Stephend - "the bracket that holds the K-jet assembly has a bolt which secures both it and the oil separator to the block", makes some sense - I think I can see this. However, this raises a couple of questions:

- is there then only the one bolt securing the box ie the one also holding the KJ assembly?

- does that then mean that I have a different set up from that described by Lamyewchoy and that removal of the box can only be done as described by Stephend ie removal of the manifold and the KJ assembly or can it still be done without all of this?

Having said all of that, having cleaned out the wee breather tubes, I did the "suction test" with the oil filler cap which seems to have been successful (I could feel the cap being pulled back inwards), so I'm thinking that the box must be reasonably clear at the moment? - but nonetheless would wish to get the knowledge of how to remove it for future reference (presumeably it is good practice to remove it from time to time and either clean or replace before it gets totally bunged?).

Apologies if I'm missing something obvious in all of this!

Thanks again for the advice.
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 01:01   #23
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Please ignore my comments about K-jet: now I've read your first post properly, I see yours isn't a K-jet type, so is different to what I was describing. Sorry!
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 09:56   #24
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This is a image of the oil box from above with manifold removed just to give you a idea







If you have a EGR valve this must be removed to get access to remove the box it has a 22 or 24 nut and must also remove piping to manifold like in lamyawchoys post here is where I found readable copy http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/lamyc/page11 should apply to the B230FK to but could be wrong.
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 11:55   #25
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For the benefit of anyone doing this job on a K-jet, the oil separator is identical to the one in the photos in Fossilfish's post, but the two bolts holding the oil separator into the block additionally secure a mounting bracket for the K-jet assembly. So the K-jet assembly does have to come out, on cars that have it, before you can remove the oil separator.

On cars with the flat-topped inlet manifold, I think there's probably space to remove the K-jet assembly without removing the manifold, after removing the rubber bellows that joins the two. You'd need to disconnect the fuel pipes to the injectors from the fuel distributor. But I haven't tried it this way, so can't be sure (I'd taken the head off on mine, so the manifold came off anyway).
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Old May 16th, 2018, 20:16   #26
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Right, I'm about to tackle the PCV system on my '96 LPT B230FK and stumbled across this thread

@PL1968, your attachment from page one won't load I don't suppose you (Or anyone else) have the part numbers for the o-ring that sits on the bottom of the separator box and also the 'Y' piece that you've pictured in your post?

Also, as my car is a late model will it be necessary to remove the EGR to get the separator box removed/off for cleaning?

TIA chaps!
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Old May 17th, 2018, 00:17   #27
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O-ring: 949659

Y-piece: 1332660

'96 FK might not even have EGR. But if it has than yah you need to remove it.
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Old May 17th, 2018, 00:34   #28
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I think EGR was deleted for 1997 model year as better catalytic converters made it redundant.
I have reattatched the original file.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 940 crankcase ventilation.pdf (115.8 KB, 24 views)
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Old May 17th, 2018, 07:59   #29
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^Thanks chaps, massively appreciate it

I've looked at the Y-piece connector and it appears the only ones available are overseas, also it seems to be listed for cars up to '95 only (Mine's a '96) so God only knows if mine uses/requires that part...

Also as a '96 I'd imagine mine has an EGR but I shall have a look to confirm... Can't imagine it's a massive job to remove it *Touches wooden things*

Last edited by LPTJoe; May 17th, 2018 at 08:15.
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Old May 17th, 2018, 10:44   #30
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The y piece (flame trap) is still available from Volvo. Only costs a few pounds as I remember. The pic in my attached pdf looks different but the part number is for the y piece.
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