steel fuel pipe replacement help please

Alasdair1 · Jan 30th, 2015, 13:57

Last year the MOT guy mentioned corrosion on fuel lines from tank to filter and also the return. Yesterday noticed stink of petrol and found the return has a hole in it. The supply then snapped when I was checking it. They are both well past it although the ends that have the flared connections are ok for about 15cm. Can I replace the steel ones with rubber hoses and jubilee clip them to the good ends as theres no way of getting new steel ones in place without dismantling half the car. I thought of fitting a couple of 8mm compression olives on the ends of the old pipe and pushing the rubber hose over them for a better seal. Question is if I can use rubber (8mm internal diameter) what hose should I use. It would have to be flexible enough to bend around the many angles etc and not too large an external diameter. I had a look at rigid plastic fuel pipe but it kinks when trying to bend it 90 degrees.
Any suggestions welcome.

Alasdair

Steve940estate · Jan 30th, 2015, 16:00

I have swapped the pipes on my car. Early cars have the under floor fuel pump and later have the single in tank one. The difference is that the late in tank pump is high pressure so you need suitable pipework right from the back.

I managed to to it without much being remove although at the time I don't think I had refitted the exhaust, not sure about the propshaft. As I was just swapping I didn't need to bend then it was just a case of threading them through things, still not easy though.

What age is your car ?

Alasdair1 · Jan 30th, 2015, 17:32

Its a 98 LPT. Looks as if I will have to remove exhaust and prop to get the pipes in. May even have to remove rear suspension as well . Its got the in tank pump. I was thinking along the lines of high pressure fuel injection hose. Been researching it and SAE 30R9 7.6mm internal diameter is suitable for modern unleaded due to the ethanol content. It has a working pressure of around 100psi and burst 300psi+. Another possibility is to use 8mm copper tubing like central heating pipe with compression fittings though theres a lot of bends in the pipes. When you did yours did you get the pipes from Volvo and can you remember roughly the cost.
Just checked and 8mm central heating copper microbore is 66bar max pressure at 65 centigrade.

Alasdair

Steve940estate · Jan 30th, 2015, 21:50

It's a late one so it will have the high pressure pipe from the tank. The actual pipes looked the same it was just the style of fitting used to connect it to the tank. It's a push fit of some sort.
I wonder is you could use some sort of braided motorsport style hose ?

Another possibility would be to use a short length of the original pipe with the tank fitting and get the end of the pipe flared to take some sort of compression fitting.

Alasdair1 · Jan 30th, 2015, 22:29

I'm thinking of using the 8mm central heating copper microbore and compression fittings . I used it for the oil cooler pipes on my import Toyota lucida and they seem perfect. The pressuere on the fuel line may be a bit higher but the pipe should take it no problem. It may have to be a combination of high pressure rubber hose and copper pipe judging by the number of 90 degree angles. I will be able to join onto the existing ends with compression fittings but will check from Volvo a price on new pipes first. Can't see them being cheap though. Will post how I get on. On good thing is I just fitted a new exhaust so it should be fairly easy to remove and put back. Hope I don't have to remove prop or drop rear axle though. I now know why fuel lines are part of the MOT now. The leak wasn't very far away from the exhaust. If it had been the main feed not the return it would have sprayed petrol everywhere.

Alasdair

Alasdair1 · Feb 1st, 2015, 10:29

A quick update on my progress. The condition of the original fuel pipes was really bad. tried to remove them in one piece and they both snapped in three places due to corrosion. God knows what was holding them together. Spoke to Volvo mechanic and he reckond I wouldn't get the new pipes in in one piece without removing a fair bit so managed to save the ends which were in good condition and discovered that 8mm central heating copper microbore and compression fittings are an exact size match. Have managed to run two new pipes bending them as I go which is a nightmare as all I have is garage ramps. Dropped the exhaust but managed to feed them through past the propshaft and handbrake cable etc without removing them. Had to give up yesterday due to being so cold I couldn't think anymore. Going to finish it off today if I can and secure the new pipes as all the clips gave way as well. I wish now I could have driven it to my local garage but thought better of it due to losing a quarter tank in 5 miles.
I have a small pipe cutter which is great for cutting the pipes leaving a nice neat end and also a hand operated draper pipe bender which gives neat bends up to 90 degrees without kinking the pipe. I suppose that at 17 years old the old pipes weren't owing me anything but if only they used copper in the first place.

Alasdair

Steve940estate · Feb 1st, 2015, 10:43

Well done for sorting them out. I found the tank fittings were different when swapping my engine and it was the last job to do. I only had ramps and it was raining and I remember getting very wet and cold.

Alasdair1 · Feb 1st, 2015, 12:29

Managed to salvage the tank ends and the filter return ends. Only problem got now is its a pain getting access join up the fittings. Should manage to get it though. Having a break to warm up. Will tackle it later.

Alasdair

Spookydave · May 13th, 2018, 23:36

I've been looking around and haven't so far found any technical info on this part of the fuel system
Does anyone know what size and thread pitch the section joiners are please?
Also Is there any reason I can't use stainless steel braided, teflon hose to replace the steel pipework? It's corroding quite badly now, as you'd expect on 26 year old car.

Many thanks in advance.

TonyS9 · May 14th, 2018, 13:16

I think you could use any pipe suitable for injection pressure, just make sure it compatible with high ethanol content fuel, and is a good tight fit on any clamp fittings. Also make sure its well secured and doesn't move around.

I would try and replicate the original design but perhaps in copper pipe.

Jan 30th, 2015, 13:57	#1
Alasdair1 Master Member Last Online: Jul 19th, 2017 12:38 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Inverness	steel fuel pipe replacement help please Last year the MOT guy mentioned corrosion on fuel lines from tank to filter and also the return. Yesterday noticed stink of petrol and found the return has a hole in it. The supply then snapped when I was checking it. They are both well past it although the ends that have the flared connections are ok for about 15cm. Can I replace the steel ones with rubber hoses and jubilee clip them to the good ends as theres no way of getting new steel ones in place without dismantling half the car. I thought of fitting a couple of 8mm compression olives on the ends of the old pipe and pushing the rubber hose over them for a better seal. Question is if I can use rubber (8mm internal diameter) what hose should I use. It would have to be flexible enough to bend around the many angles etc and not too large an external diameter. I had a look at rigid plastic fuel pipe but it kinks when trying to bend it 90 degrees. Any suggestions welcome. Alasdair

Jan 30th, 2015, 17:32	#3
Alasdair1 Master Member Last Online: Jul 19th, 2017 12:38 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Inverness	Its a 98 LPT. Looks as if I will have to remove exhaust and prop to get the pipes in. May even have to remove rear suspension as well . Its got the in tank pump. I was thinking along the lines of high pressure fuel injection hose. Been researching it and SAE 30R9 7.6mm internal diameter is suitable for modern unleaded due to the ethanol content. It has a working pressure of around 100psi and burst 300psi+. Another possibility is to use 8mm copper tubing like central heating pipe with compression fittings though theres a lot of bends in the pipes. When you did yours did you get the pipes from Volvo and can you remember roughly the cost. Just checked and 8mm central heating copper microbore is 66bar max pressure at 65 centigrade. Alasdair Last edited by Alasdair1; Jan 30th, 2015 at 17:35.

May 13th, 2018, 23:36	#9
Spookydave New Member Last Online: Jul 26th, 2023 20:33 Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Wallasey	'92 940 2.0l petrol Fuel Return Pipe. I've been looking around and haven't so far found any technical info on this part of the fuel system Does anyone know what size and thread pitch the section joiners are please? Also Is there any reason I can't use stainless steel braided, teflon hose to replace the steel pipework? It's corroding quite badly now, as you'd expect on 26 year old car. Many thanks in advance.

Jan 30th, 2015, 16:00	#2
Steve940estate Steam Driven PC Owner. Last Online: Mar 4th, 2024 23:50 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Not sure.	I have swapped the pipes on my car. Early cars have the under floor fuel pump and later have the single in tank one. The difference is that the late in tank pump is high pressure so you need suitable pipework right from the back. I managed to to it without much being remove although at the time I don't think I had refitted the exhaust, not sure about the propshaft. As I was just swapping I didn't need to bend then it was just a case of threading them through things, still not easy though. What age is your car ?

Jan 30th, 2015, 21:50	#4
Steve940estate Steam Driven PC Owner. Last Online: Mar 4th, 2024 23:50 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Not sure.	It's a late one so it will have the high pressure pipe from the tank. The actual pipes looked the same it was just the style of fitting used to connect it to the tank. It's a push fit of some sort. I wonder is you could use some sort of braided motorsport style hose ? Another possibility would be to use a short length of the original pipe with the tank fitting and get the end of the pipe flared to take some sort of compression fitting.

Jan 30th, 2015, 22:29	#5
Alasdair1 Master Member Last Online: Jul 19th, 2017 12:38 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Inverness	I'm thinking of using the 8mm central heating copper microbore and compression fittings . I used it for the oil cooler pipes on my import Toyota lucida and they seem perfect. The pressuere on the fuel line may be a bit higher but the pipe should take it no problem. It may have to be a combination of high pressure rubber hose and copper pipe judging by the number of 90 degree angles. I will be able to join onto the existing ends with compression fittings but will check from Volvo a price on new pipes first. Can't see them being cheap though. Will post how I get on. On good thing is I just fitted a new exhaust so it should be fairly easy to remove and put back. Hope I don't have to remove prop or drop rear axle though. I now know why fuel lines are part of the MOT now. The leak wasn't very far away from the exhaust. If it had been the main feed not the return it would have sprayed petrol everywhere. Alasdair

Feb 1st, 2015, 10:29	#6
Alasdair1 Master Member Last Online: Jul 19th, 2017 12:38 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Inverness	A quick update on my progress. The condition of the original fuel pipes was really bad. tried to remove them in one piece and they both snapped in three places due to corrosion. God knows what was holding them together. Spoke to Volvo mechanic and he reckond I wouldn't get the new pipes in in one piece without removing a fair bit so managed to save the ends which were in good condition and discovered that 8mm central heating copper microbore and compression fittings are an exact size match. Have managed to run two new pipes bending them as I go which is a nightmare as all I have is garage ramps. Dropped the exhaust but managed to feed them through past the propshaft and handbrake cable etc without removing them. Had to give up yesterday due to being so cold I couldn't think anymore. Going to finish it off today if I can and secure the new pipes as all the clips gave way as well. I wish now I could have driven it to my local garage but thought better of it due to losing a quarter tank in 5 miles. I have a small pipe cutter which is great for cutting the pipes leaving a nice neat end and also a hand operated draper pipe bender which gives neat bends up to 90 degrees without kinking the pipe. I suppose that at 17 years old the old pipes weren't owing me anything but if only they used copper in the first place. Alasdair

Feb 1st, 2015, 10:43	#7
Steve940estate Steam Driven PC Owner. Last Online: Mar 4th, 2024 23:50 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Not sure.	Well done for sorting them out. I found the tank fittings were different when swapping my engine and it was the last job to do. I only had ramps and it was raining and I remember getting very wet and cold.

Feb 1st, 2015, 12:29	#8
Alasdair1 Master Member Last Online: Jul 19th, 2017 12:38 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Inverness	Managed to salvage the tank ends and the filter return ends. Only problem got now is its a pain getting access join up the fittings. Should manage to get it though. Having a break to warm up. Will tackle it later. Alasdair

May 14th, 2018, 13:16	#10
TonyS9 Premier Member Last Online: Apr 9th, 2024 21:44 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Holywood	I think you could use any pipe suitable for injection pressure, just make sure it compatible with high ethanol content fuel, and is a good tight fit on any clamp fittings. Also make sure its well secured and doesn't move around. I would try and replicate the original design but perhaps in copper pipe.

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