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Power Steering Hose

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Old Feb 25th, 2012, 18:45   #1
In Reverse
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Default Power Steering Hose

Wondering if anybody has replaced the Power Steering Hose on their XC90.

Mines an 05 D5 AWD and has developed a leak in the power steering system. I've had a look and expected it to be split oil cooler, but found it to be a leak in the pipe that runs from the front of the pump and down the front of the engine, then under the engine and up to the steering rack. I can see it spaying out when steering on full lock.

The leak is at the crimped join where the flexible hose meets the lower metal pipe.

Has anybody changed this themselves or any idea of cost of part, had similar leak.
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Old Feb 26th, 2012, 17:26   #2
asahartz
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I did this job just last week!

It's a pain in the butt, but can be done diy. The hose is £126 from a Volvo specialist.

Remove the engine undertray and offside wheel. Here there is a small plastic & foam cover which is held in by the plastic nuts which retain the wheelarch splashguards. Once this is removed you can get access to the point where the hose connects to the rack. There's not much room for access down here! There is a locking clip over the connection which comes off with a 8mm socket on a long extension, it's just a self-tapping screw.

You'll need a 16mm spanner to slacken the connector, then it will probably unscrew with your fingers - a small amount of fluid will leak out so have something to catch it.

There is a small clip on the front crossmember which requires a 10mm socket to unscrew; it can be done from underneath but is easier with a long extension from the top.

At the top, there is another locking clip; you'll need a 12mm spanner to slacken (but not remove) the bolt behind the pulley for the locking clip to slide out, then your 16mm spanner will loosen the top connection. The other retaining clip halfway along the rubber is another 10mm socket.

To make it easier to manoevre the pipe in and out, remove the large metal block in the centre of the crossmember. I haven't a clue what this does as it has no wires or pipes to it! But it gets in the way; there are two large bolts (13/14mm socket, can't remember now) and a small one at the front (10mm socket).

Unclip the pipe under the car, then slide it forwards - you might need a screwdriver to lever it past the other pipe - to clear the rack end inside the subframe, pull it downwards then and backwards to clear the front. You might need to bend it very slightly to get it through; I tried not to wreck it just be be sure I could get the new one through the same route! It's useful to have an assistant to feed the rubber section down to you.

Replacement, as they say, is the exact reverse process! You may find the pipe has to be bent very slightly to get it back inside the subframe. This can make the thread alignment into the rack a little awkward and this part requires some patience. It also meant that it wouldn't stay in the plastic retaining clips and I resorted to tie-wraps here.

I also found that the lower metal section of my replacement pipe joined the bottom end of the rubber at a different angle from the original so the retaining clip in the middle of the rubber wouldn't reach, so I gently bent the pipe until it did.

Don't forget that you need the correct special PAS fluid from Volvo at £15 a bottle. Bleeding the PAS system is simple enough, run the engine then turn the steering from lock to lock a few times; recheck fluid level afterwards.

It's the working at arms length under the wheelarch that makes it a tricky job but I did it in an afternoon.
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Old Feb 26th, 2012, 18:07   #3
volvocamper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asahartz View Post
I did this job just last week!

It's a pain in the butt, but can be done diy. The hose is £126 from a Volvo specialist.

Remove the engine undertray and offside wheel. Here there is a small plastic & foam cover which is held in by the plastic nuts which retain the wheelarch splashguards. Once this is removed you can get access to the point where the hose connects to the rack. There's not much room for access down here! There is a locking clip over the connection which comes off with a 8mm socket on a long extension, it's just a self-tapping screw.

You'll need a 16mm spanner to slacken the connector, then it will probably unscrew with your fingers - a small amount of fluid will leak out so have something to catch it.

There is a small clip on the front crossmember which requires a 10mm socket to unscrew; it can be done from underneath but is easier with a long extension from the top.

At the top, there is another locking clip; you'll need a 12mm spanner to slacken (but not remove) the bolt behind the pulley for the locking clip to slide out, then your 16mm spanner will loosen the top connection. The other retaining clip halfway along the rubber is another 10mm socket.

To make it easier to manoevre the pipe in and out, remove the large metal block in the centre of the crossmember. I haven't a clue what this does as it has no wires or pipes to it! But it gets in the way; there are two large bolts (13/14mm socket, can't remember now) and a small one at the front (10mm socket).

Unclip the pipe under the car, then slide it forwards - you might need a screwdriver to lever it past the other pipe - to clear the rack end inside the subframe, pull it downwards then and backwards to clear the front. You might need to bend it very slightly to get it through; I tried not to wreck it just be be sure I could get the new one through the same route! It's useful to have an assistant to feed the rubber section down to you.

Replacement, as they say, is the exact reverse process! You may find the pipe has to be bent very slightly to get it back inside the subframe. This can make the thread alignment into the rack a little awkward and this part requires some patience. It also meant that it wouldn't stay in the plastic retaining clips and I resorted to tie-wraps here.

I also found that the lower metal section of my replacement pipe joined the bottom end of the rubber at a different angle from the original so the retaining clip in the middle of the rubber wouldn't reach, so I gently bent the pipe until it did.

Don't forget that you need the correct special PAS fluid from Volvo at £15 a bottle. Bleeding the PAS system is simple enough, run the engine then turn the steering from lock to lock a few times; recheck fluid level afterwards.

It's the working at arms length under the wheelarch that makes it a tricky job but I did it in an afternoon.
Excellent write up ASAHARTZ, thank you.
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Old Feb 26th, 2012, 19:20   #4
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ASAHARTZ you are a legend.

That's a fantastic write up and just the kind of response I was hoping for. I did a bit of looking about today and see all the areas and points you mention. I'm game enough to take on most jobs, and you've encouraged me to do it myself. I'll get the part ordered tomorrow.

My only concern is that i'm now worried the pump might be knackered. It wasn't making any noises, but today I topped it up with fluid (Comma CHF 11S - all I could get on a Sat afternoon, but it lists it on the website as suitable and was twice price of normal fluid). Its now making a terrible racket, although only turned it on and then switched off. I'll change the hose and fill with the Volvo fluid and see how it goes.

Thanks again.
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Old Feb 26th, 2012, 20:45   #5
asahartz
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No problem; it was coincidental that I logged in to find out how to remove a door card and saw your post, so I described it in detail while it was fresh in my mind. I had half an idea to take photos as I did the job last week but didn't bother. But a good description is nearly as useful!
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Old Feb 27th, 2012, 23:29   #6
In Reverse
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I replaced this hose this evening. Took about 3 hrs, very fiddly as stated, but with a bit of patience and trial and error with routing the rigid part of the hose, all went in fine. The hose was £108 all in from my local Volvo dealer, who had it in stock.

Fitted and topped up with genuine fluid (only took approx 250ml)and all seems to run fine, no more noise from pump and no apparent leaks. It was slightly different to ASAHARTZ write up - different connections - but all in all very similar.

I'll run it and check for leaks and noises over next few days, but fingers crossed its looking good. Thanks again for the write up ASAHARTZ.
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Old Feb 28th, 2012, 00:57   #7
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Ah, yours is 05, mine's 53 which explains a few model differences.
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Old Feb 28th, 2012, 23:20   #8
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Yes, the part stated 05 on, so that would account for differences. Mine had a 10mm bolt holding pipe to rack at one end and another to pump at other. Just 3 more 10mm bolts for the hose clips around front of engine and rest of rigid hose clipped onto guides under the engine/subframe.

The noise from the pump has disappeared. I presume this was because with the leak, there was no pressure, causing lack of fluid getting through the pump. Hopefully all sorted and no need to look for a new pump.
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Old Jan 28th, 2013, 17:06   #9
donturkone
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Excellent writeup! I changed this hose previous week. Cost 180 Euro.
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Old Dec 9th, 2014, 17:02   #10
MisterWooley
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Excellent write up.
Tried this today on my XC90, 2004, but failed. I could not see how to release the clip on the rack end of the pipe.
The retaining screw was screwed in from the bulkhead side. Looks as if the subframe needs to be dropped at the rear to give access.
Am I missing something?
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