Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > Diesel Engines

Notices

Diesel Engines A forum dedicated to diesel engines fitted to Volvo cars. See the first post in this forum for a list of the diesel engines.

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

Information regarding EGR related problems and solutions.

Views : 227029

Replies : 49

Users Viewing This Thread :  

View Poll Results: Did this eliminated your problem?
No 5 21.74%
Sort of... 2 8.70%
Not completely, some problems persist.. 6 26.09%
Yes, everything is working fine now. 10 43.48%
Other option 0 0%
Voters: 23. You may not vote on this poll

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Feb 28th, 2013, 14:01   #11
jack3043
New Member
 

Last Online: Aug 29th, 2014 21:03
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: hartlepool
Wink EGR V50 2.0d

Hi good write up had same prob and it cost me £600.00 to get fixed by Volvo I will now remove the EGR and the air intake manifold and a good clean every 12000 miles or 1 year this is just a piece of mind and keep some money in my pocket THANKS
jack3043 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Apr 16th, 2013, 09:40   #12
Funky Diver
FD
 
Funky Diver's Avatar
 

Last Online: Aug 23rd, 2023 23:44
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Darlington
Default

Looks like I have a job on my list
Funky Diver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 16th, 2013, 18:43   #13
Dieselfan
I've Been Banned
 

Last Online: Jul 17th, 2013 01:37
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bournemouth
Smile

Great article with lots of nice pics.
If you want to avoid fouling up an EGR or Cat, there are two things that seem to help more than just using the correct gear. The first is to avoid cold starts, as the engine burns 2 to 3 times as much fuel when cold and it is during that warm up period that most of the Carbon gets deposited. Using a garage helps slightly, but the real good move is to pre heat the engine in winter. A 250W stick on sump heater cost about 70 pounds, plus perhaps another 30 pounds for the cable, plugs and timer. The cost of the electricity is about the same as the fuel you will save and it's nice to be able to get the heater working faster than normal.

The second thing is to make sure you get a few hours of steady motorway driving in at least every month, as that will help burn most of the deposits off. My V40 1.9D's EGR has been cleaned once in 120,000 miles.
Dieselfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Feb 15th, 2014, 00:50   #14
timmytarmac
Senior Member
 

Last Online: Mar 4th, 2020 01:01
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: surrey
Default Need help

Hi I am having some problems with my 2003 v40 diesel 115 bhp d4192t3 115,000miles.
I have a wooshing escaping air sound when changing gear almost like I have a dump valve and a hesitant boost (on off on off surging) around 2000 revs so it would almost appear I have a leak in the charge air hose's but have checked all of these and cant find any leaks there.

Last year I cleaned the egr valve, New charge air hose from the turbo, oil change (Castrol edge part synth), diesel filter, KN Panel filter, Oil Filter & Cabin filter, Top strut mounts, Alternator and belt, New coolant, New brake fluid plus more and I still have things to do.

Are the egr valve's meant to come apart as like others here mine didn't but should it to be cleaned properly how do you check the opperation?
What should I use as a gasket for the egr valve apart from the metal one?
The turbo boost valve is it also called N75 valve? Can it be checked/cleaned?
The wastegate on my turbo is rusty?
Pressure sensor can this be cleaned? could this be my problem?
I know I have alot of questions I do need saving Im in Redhill Surrey if anyone close that could have a look or give me some good pointers Thanks in advance Tim
timmytarmac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Feb 15th, 2014, 10:06   #15
skyship007
Premier Member
 
skyship007's Avatar
 

Last Online: May 2nd, 2018 09:14
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: DownSouth
Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by ciaranr View Post
Took mine apart and cleaned over the weekend, pre-cleaning pics attached. I reckon I got an egg-cup full of gunk out of the manifold, although the EGR valve itself wasn't too bad. Mine was impossible to separate, also.

I had the same experience as AAmbro, no turbo for a few minutes until suddenly it was back. It has stopped idling roughly, which was what I hoped for, but can't say I notice much other difference in the car, perhaps it's going a bit better below 1500 rpm though.

Some folks think it's a turbo fault, just the ECU/MAP adjusting the injection system settings, OR turbo boost rate to the new cleaner intake and EGR. The same odd behaviour happens when you change a MAF, CAT or real bad air filter element. I think it takes about 20 minutes to self adjust. After that you get slightly better MPG AND faster throttle response. Even more power if it was a real gunge job.

One problem with some EGR's is that although a good engine might not foul the intake OR EGR (A bad turbo seal fouls the intake and bad rings, injectors or valve guide oil seals foul the EGR, as the intake is more oil than C and the EGR is much more C than oil ash) for 100K km plus, IF the wrong retaining screws have been used (Volvo only) and if they have used a very common cheap brass looking hex head bolt insted, say your prayers before trying to remove the EGR, because if one of those bolts shears due to corrosion, you will have a real long PITA job to get it out. That's why I'm not trying to remove my EGR until I get symptoms. I am getting the intake cleaned every 50K km though.

Warning: Saturday rant follows, so don't read!

Changing tack slightly, if your cylinders get some Carbon deposits, they will burn off fairly easily, BUT it takes a lot longer to burn an EGR or CAT clean of both Carbon and burnt oil ash (Zinc related oil additives are a very slight negative for the exhaust system). I've seen some real life test results on very badly fouled EGR's on truck diesels AND they take at least 10 hours at max continuous power to get real clean, down to just some very minor baked oil ash. It's an Expo curve, so only an hour or two makes a big difference to the EGR and CAT (Some cheap CAT's fail from corrosion in the longer term) if you can get the engine to max continuous power (4th gear only helps, but a very early Sunday morning motorway trip in good weather is more effective).

There are 3 W letters important with diesel engines as follows:

W for WOT (Wide Open Throttle)
W for WTF do you use for oil & filters
W for Why are you starting with your big boots on the pedals (30 second rule)

AND a B for http://www.blackstone.com, as only a used oil analysis can give the best answer as to when to change the oil & filters for a particular block, detect early signs of an HG pin hole leak or the need to clean the injectors with a fuel additive (Might be never if you use good diesel fuel that has some Bio content). It will also warn you about bad types of oil (Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 5/40, which is a group 3 HC synthetic rated C3 by Acea, is one bad oil, as it doubled my wear rates, Oddly enough Castrol Magnetec 10/40 will give better results sometimes and even basic Mobil 10/40 will do better, so take pity on the poor DPF owners, whilst their exhaust system dumps fuel into their oil or runs up flame thrower fuel bills).
__________________
2003 V40 1.9TD Mods: Scratches, bent bumpers, raised REAR mats & internal mud guards.
SHELL ULTRA 5/40 & LIQUI MOLY CERATEC.

Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research)

Last edited by skyship007; Feb 15th, 2014 at 10:14.
skyship007 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to skyship007 For This Useful Post:
Old Feb 27th, 2014, 23:55   #16
skyship007
Premier Member
 
skyship007's Avatar
 

Last Online: May 2nd, 2018 09:14
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: DownSouth
Cool

Great pics, BUT there are a few differences from the Volvo Vadis program:

Firstly a special Volvo tool can be used to remove the EGR without splitting it in two. It is available from Volvo dealers or the main Online parts companies for around 60 quid, although the ones I checked had to order it from Scandy land first.

Secondly, when using the special hook spanner, Vadis says to drip rust solvent into the flange to try and help it move.

Thirdly, the torque settings for the retaining bolts are fairly low, so Vadis says to use Locktight on all the bolts, along with a new metal crush type gasket.

I've just ordered the special Volvo EGR hook spanner and will post a pic here in about a weeks time.
__________________
2003 V40 1.9TD Mods: Scratches, bent bumpers, raised REAR mats & internal mud guards.
SHELL ULTRA 5/40 & LIQUI MOLY CERATEC.

Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research)
skyship007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Mar 23rd, 2014, 23:00   #17
AlexandrePT
New Member
 

Last Online: Mar 23rd, 2014 23:00
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oporto
Default

I own a 2003 V40 1.9d with a little over 220.000kms and I gave it a go this afternoon, and the EGR was so stuck, I ended up breaking it.

The wood and the rubber hammer werent doing much, nor was full cans of sprayed penetrating oil, so I tried a little harder!
It did move a little but broke it in one corner...

So now I know I have to get a new one but honestly Im stuck in how to get the bloody old EGR out, because now it doesnt move either way!

AlexandrePT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 4th, 2014, 12:16   #18
Alexjansen
Member
 
Alexjansen's Avatar
 

Last Online: Jan 19th, 2019 12:38
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Dijon
Default Warning about this tuto

First of all please forgive my imperfect english.
I'm having acceleration problems with my volvo S40 (D115 2003, 257000km), the turbo releases massive air flux and the acceleration has become uneven, does like "go, stop, go, stop, go..."

Turbo and durites are ok, so obviously the problem comes from the EGR valve. I Found this tutorial, well made, clear enough, this looked awesome. In fact, this tutorial can either be awesome or TERRIBLE depending on how lucky you are. I'm not lucky.
Biotoxic, you suggest to take off the EGR valve in 2 pieces, first the outer part and then the inner part. The thing is, it's a FATAL ERROR. You shouldn't try to disconnect your EGR valve in 2 pieces, but instead pull the whole out. There are some specific clamps to do it, and I think you could even do this with the chain/key that is used for oil filters.
Why that ? Simply because if your valve hasn't been worked out for years and like me more than 130 000km, the inner part will be completely stucked in the hose, impossible to take out or even make it turn a little, whatever massive tool or super carbcleaner you will use. And that's what's happening to me right now, and I can't find any professionnal willing to take the risk of helping me in that matter.

So, everyone, DON'T SEPARATE YOUR EGR VALVE IN 2 PIECES, but take it whole out with a clamp or something to grab the outer part of the egr valve. (by turning it little by little)
Alexjansen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 5th, 2014, 12:25   #19
Alexjansen
Member
 
Alexjansen's Avatar
 

Last Online: Jan 19th, 2019 12:38
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Dijon
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexjansen View Post
First of all please forgive my imperfect english.
I'm having acceleration problems with my volvo S40 (D115 2003, 257000km), the turbo releases massive air flux and the acceleration has become uneven, does like "go, stop, go, stop, go..."

Turbo and durites are ok, so obviously the problem comes from the EGR valve. I Found this tutorial, well made, clear enough, this looked awesome. In fact, this tutorial can either be awesome or TERRIBLE depending on how lucky you are. I'm not lucky.
Biotoxic, you suggest to take off the EGR valve in 2 pieces, first the outer part and then the inner part. The thing is, it's a FATAL ERROR. You shouldn't try to disconnect your EGR valve in 2 pieces, but instead pull the whole out. There are some specific clamps to do it, and I think you could even do this with the chain/key that is used for oil filters.
Why that ? Simply because if your valve hasn't been worked out for years and like me more than 130 000km, the inner part will be completely stucked in the hose, impossible to take out or even make it turn a little, whatever massive tool or super carbcleaner you will use. And that's what's happening to me right now, and I can't find any professionnal willing to take the risk of helping me in that matter.

So, everyone, DON'T SEPARATE YOUR EGR VALVE IN 2 PIECES, but take it whole out with a clamp or something to grab the outer part of the egr valve. (by turning it little by little)
EDIT: yesterday, I tried the car without the outer part of the egr valve. The acceleration problems have completely disappeared, so it's now real proof that it was the EGR causing trouble to the turbo. I still got some air flux "shhhh" when I accelerate, and less power than normal, so the inner part of the EGR is still a problem... and I really can't take it out.
Alexjansen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jul 25th, 2014, 01:07   #20
Biotoxic
Master Member
 
Biotoxic's Avatar
 

Last Online: Dec 30th, 2018 09:33
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Craigavon area
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexjansen View Post
...Biotoxic, you suggest to take off the EGR valve in 2 pieces, first the outer part and then the inner part. The thing is, it's a FATAL ERROR. You shouldn't try to disconnect your EGR valve in 2 pieces, but instead pull the whole out .... So, everyone, DON'T SEPARATE YOUR EGR VALVE IN 2 PIECES, but take it whole out with a clamp or something to grab the outer part of the egr valve. (by turning it little by little)
It comes in two versions, I had a version that is separated(comes in two parts), the other one comes welded or spot welded together. I didn't said that anyone should brake/split them apart if it is one unit
Biotoxic is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Biotoxic For This Useful Post:
Reply

Tags
egr problems, hesitating, sluggish, vaiotag


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 23:47.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.