Fuses

[Angie]

I hope this might be helpful, as I believe that genuine ceramic fuses are hard to come by. The fuses bought locally turned out to be plastic, and one of them actually melted. I was searching on Ebay and came across this - 332589247890. The seller was really helpful and provided four of each capacity, said he could make up any quantity required. Delivery was quick too, so I thought a mention here was deserved.

[Clifford Pope]

I posted a source of genuine fuses some while ago, perhaps this one, I can't remember.
I reported at the time that I had actually tested one - I held it in a gas flame until red hot, and it didn't burn or melt.

[Stephen Edwin]

Thank you Angie.

And that seller's listing is very informatively written. As well as specifically saying the fuse bodies are ceramic, it spells out the reasons for using ceramic AND spells out the reasons for using brass or copper wire in the fuses, if the fusebox contacts are brass or copper. PLUS a dielectric conversation.


EDIT TO CORRECT MY MISQUOTE: an informative dialectic on dielectrics! (From a certain MAF thread Angie.)


.

[Angie]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

Thank you Angie.


........... an informative dialectic on dielectrics!
.

I'd forgotten that little quote, Stephen, I must try to find an opportunity to make use of it!

[Angie]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

I posted a source of genuine fuses some while ago, perhaps this one, I can't remember.
I reported at the time that I had actually tested one - I held it in a gas flame until red hot, and it didn't burn or melt.

That's reassuring, Clifford, as I only had the sales pitch, albeit a very helpful one, on which to rely.

[Angie]

My main reason for sourcing these fuses was that fuse no. 12, dim/dip, had melted though the wire conductor was unaffected. I've now replaced with one of the ceramic type, and dim/dip duly functioned, but only for a short time. The fuse hadn't blown so I removed it and saw that the 'fixed' contact was very dirty, and had bits of the old aluminium conductor 'welded' to it. I scraped all that off, but the plastic around the fuse holder is quite black from overheating. I just wondered if the resistance of the old fuse could have caused that, perhaps because dim/dip is continuously on, unlike other components.

This doesn't matter too much as everything works as it should, but I have an enquiring mind, so any information from all you knowledgeable people here would be welcome. The new fuse is the correct 8 amp type, by the way; I can be a bit doolally but not that stoopid!

[nu11eaf]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_s...sacat=0&_oac=1
Just thought I would post the link to open it direct.

Speaking of fuses, thought this link might be of use to some. It has fuse box diagrams for many makes and models of cars
http://www.autogenius.info/category/volvo/244/

[Angie]

Originally Posted by nu11eaf

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_s...sacat=0&_oac=1
Just thought I would post the link to open it direct.

Why didn't I think of that, it's much easier!

[nu11eaf]

Originally Posted by Angie

Why didn't I think of that, it's much easier!

You did the hard bit by finding them and bringing them to our attention.