V70: TPS/Pedal Position Sensor Code P0225

[theonlyone]

Hi all,

I have a Volvo V70 Classic 140 (2000/W Reg). I had the throttle body clean and software update done in 2007 or so with good results. However, for the last 2 years I have intermittently had the orange ETS light and the PO225 diagnostic code which is "TPS/Pedal Position sensor/Switch C circuit malfunction". The car continues to run well (193K miles), but the light is mostly on now and I think I should do something about the code before I have a failure.

Is the TPS in the Throttle Body or is it by the pedal?

Regards,

Posted this separately as the P0225 code doesn't seem to be covered much in the forum.

[stuartggray]

TPS is in the throttle body. Sounds like it is time to have the contactless modification done.

[theonlyone]

Thank you. I have been in touch with Lucas and will send it to him. I am part way through removing the ETM and am now stuck trying to figure out how to get the connector block through the back.

Can any one offer a way out of this please? Pictures attached

Many thanks,

[mikealder]

There is no electrical connector on the ETM body, there is a flying lead with a plug on the end of it that connects to a socket mounted on the front subframe just aft of the radiator, the cable is trapped between the engine block and the starter motor, to get it out remove the starter motor steady bracket and this releases the cable - DO NOT try to take the cable off the ETM body as this will distroy the ETM - Disconnect your battery before messing with the starter steady bracket as you will be working blind under the inlet manifold where there are some large power cables that connect to the starter motor, you don't want to short them out - Mike

[theonlyone]

Mike,
Thank you very much. I thought briefly about disconnecting the lead at the ETM, but had seen enough pictures of it fixed that I thought better of it. I undid the battery -ve at the start. I'll go back out and continue ...

[theonlyone]

It worked. I didn't have to remove the bracket completely, which was good, because it would have been a pain reassembling various washers and guiding them in. I just slid it out as far as I could and there was enough play to negotiate the connector block around the back of the starter. There's a simple 12mm bolt not visible in the picture (would have been to the bottom left) which I did remove completely to allow the bracket to slide out on the long bolts.

I didn't remove the radiator or fan. It was tight, but I used a 10mm ratchet spanner and I have relatively slim hands.

Thanks again for the advice.