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Disc and pad renewal

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Old May 17th, 2019, 11:32   #1
P156KWJ
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Default Disc and pad renewal

As I'm still new to maintaining cars (despite having worked on buses for 7 years), was wondering if anyone could give me some pointers regarding brake renewal on my S40.

I think the front discs are warped as there's the telltale sign of some steering wheel shake when slowing down from a high speed, and at a very low speed with the pedal steady, it feels as though when the wheels are still rotating, the pads grab slightly more on some parts of the disc than others. The rears are quite obviously getting ready as there's quite a prominent lip formed on the discs. Anyway...

Euro Car Parts and GSF are not exactly helpful with various options for my reg number although the rear axle seems to be easy enough for parts. The front axle there's various discs, although I believe it's the 281mm variant rather than the 256mm (short of waiting until I've stripped it all down and measuring the old disc). However, there's two variants of pads that are different sizes, and I'm not sure what exactly is compatible.

Volvo would like a fair amount more money than Euro, is it worth the extra just to avoid any potential hassle and just get the OE parts?

Any extra pointers or issues I may come across? Got plenty of tools, but is there anything special I may need?

Thanks in advance!
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Old May 17th, 2019, 22:39   #2
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If you have access to another vehicle the best option really is to strip it down and take a disc and set of pads with you to the car parts store so you can compare them whilst there to save any hassle. Common occurrence with some vehicles. Either make note of the discs and pads for next time or repeat taking the current ones with you. Warped discs are usually caused by one of the guide pins becoming seized. Remove the guide pins and give them a good inspection and clean. Use a good grease on them, I believe silicone grease is best for the application but I just used a tooth paste style tube of brake grease. Also clean out the receiving part for the guide pins on the caliper carrier. I personally remove it and place it in a vise and use a perfectly sized metal drill bit as a reamer to clean it out then a shot of brake cleaner in there and cotton buds to get it nice and clean. I squirt a reasonable amount of the brake grease on the guide pin and twist it whilst inserting it back into the caliper carrier. Give the parts where the shoulder of the pads slide along a good clean and apply some grease sparingly. I use an angle grinder with a wire cup to fully de-rust the wheel hub and apply a very thin layer of copper grease onto the hub before fitting the disc which stops the disc from becoming stuck to the hub in the future. Can also do this to where the disc and wheel meet which makes wheel removal easier when needed.

With the rear brakes you will need a caliper wind back tool, the one with the 2 knobs I believe. Best way is to break down the brakes, removing the disc and the pads then refit the caliper carrier and caliper to hold it securely for winding the caliper back in. Then patience is required for winding it back it and make sure you get it flush so that the dust cover looks fully in, you will know what i mean.

Clean and lubricate like said earlier for the rear. And give the brakes a good pump before you drive it. The handbrake will need a bit of time to self adjust but it will get there.
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Old May 18th, 2019, 12:48   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aldred309uk View Post
If you have access to another vehicle the best option really is to strip it down and take a disc and set of pads with you to the car parts store so you can compare them whilst there to save any hassle. Common occurrence with some vehicles. Either make note of the discs and pads for next time or repeat taking the current ones with you. Warped discs are usually caused by one of the guide pins becoming seized. Remove the guide pins and give them a good inspection and clean. Use a good grease on them, I believe silicone grease is best for the application but I just used a tooth paste style tube of brake grease. Also clean out the receiving part for the guide pins on the caliper carrier. I personally remove it and place it in a vise and use a perfectly sized metal drill bit as a reamer to clean it out then a shot of brake cleaner in there and cotton buds to get it nice and clean. I squirt a reasonable amount of the brake grease on the guide pin and twist it whilst inserting it back into the caliper carrier. Give the parts where the shoulder of the pads slide along a good clean and apply some grease sparingly. I use an angle grinder with a wire cup to fully de-rust the wheel hub and apply a very thin layer of copper grease onto the hub before fitting the disc which stops the disc from becoming stuck to the hub in the future. Can also do this to where the disc and wheel meet which makes wheel removal easier when needed.

With the rear brakes you will need a caliper wind back tool, the one with the 2 knobs I believe. Best way is to break down the brakes, removing the disc and the pads then refit the caliper carrier and caliper to hold it securely for winding the caliper back in. Then patience is required for winding it back it and make sure you get it flush so that the dust cover looks fully in, you will know what i mean.

Clean and lubricate like said earlier for the rear. And give the brakes a good pump before you drive it. The handbrake will need a bit of time to self adjust but it will get there.
Cheers for that, gives a lot of insight compared to the Haynes manual! The warped discs were a bit of a concern as of course you'd expect there to be an underlying cause for it.

We usually use copper grease for the buses but I'll consider buying something more specific. Thanks again for your insight!
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Old May 18th, 2019, 17:36   #4
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You would be surprised how many garages still use copper grease for all parts of the braking system. It should be silicone grease as stated earlier or a good high temperature grease will be ok for all the sliding parts. Copper grease will "swell" the rubber components. Copper grease is really an assembly compound. The lubricant dries out and leaves a small copper film. OK for threads etc but not good for a sliding application.
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Old May 18th, 2019, 18:56   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P156KWJ View Post
Cheers for that, gives a lot of insight compared to the Haynes manual! The warped discs were a bit of a concern as of course you'd expect there to be an underlying cause for it.

We usually use copper grease for the buses but I'll consider buying something more specific. Thanks again for your insight!
You may want to check run out on the front hubs. I went through three sets of discs before I finally figured out that the hubs were out of spec for lateral run out. Two wreckyard spindles and ANOTHER set of rotors did the trick.
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Old May 19th, 2019, 13:49   #6
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P156KWJ
Try putting your VIN in to https://www.skandix.de/en/vehicle-selection/?action=neu to get the right diameter for you discs.
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Old May 19th, 2019, 14:17   #7
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I've had a 2l phase 1, the P2 t4 and now a 2l P2, all the same disks so far, never even knew there were different options for these cars.
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Old May 19th, 2019, 15:14   #8
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P156KWJ
Try putting your VIN in to https://www.skandix.de/en/vehicle-selection/?action=neu to get the right diameter for you discs.
Cheers for that, confirmed my expectations and gave me a definite answer!

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I've had a 2l phase 1, the P2 t4 and now a 2l P2, all the same disks so far, never even knew there were different options for these cars.
Seems that GSF might have their knickers in a twist about the 256mm front discs, as I notice the part number they give contains 'MI' instead of 'VO' which makes me think it might either be for a Mitsubishi Carisma or early Phase 1 variants. Or both... also confusingly they don't keep their own branded discs in stock but do have their own pads!

81 for the lot from Euro Car Parts though which is excellent. Cheers everyone for your help.
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Old May 19th, 2019, 19:45   #9
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I've never had any difficulty buying brakes for any of the V40s I've owned either, except one time the supplier got in a mess and gave me a VW caliper.

I don't bother with all the flash options. The way I figure it, if they're good enough to trigger the ABS, they're good enough full-stop. Anything more is a waste. For around 100, you can spend all day saturday under your car and know you've got real stopping power at the end of it. Just go budget, good enough.
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Old May 20th, 2019, 19:45   #10
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Cheers for that, confirmed my expectations and gave me a definite answer!



Seems that GSF might have their knickers in a twist about the 256mm front discs, as I notice the part number they give contains 'MI' instead of 'VO' which makes me think it might either be for a Mitsubishi Carisma or early Phase 1 variants. Or both... also confusingly they don't keep their own branded discs in stock but do have their own pads!

81 for the lot from Euro Car Parts though which is excellent. Cheers everyone for your help.
Carparts4less is always worth a look!
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