General 1999 V70 Diesel

[brickman]

There is a PDF floating about the internet that I found when typing in 'volvo 850 tdi timing' in a popular search engine. Its a Russian language version of the one already posted in this thread originally from VIDA I guess. Its got all the key info.

Main thing is of course the timing marks to observe, the one on the wrong side of the fuel pumps location makes more sense when you are doing a cam belt then when you are doing a fuel pump belt. Also found in the flywheel on a manual there are two marks, one is the real mark, the other is a hole to gain access to two sump bolts, don't get them confused as they are only a few teeth apart!

For undoing and redoing up the camshaft pulleys would strongly recommend making a tool (angle iron with two holes in it, then I put two M14 or M16 bolts through it to counterhold the pulley) as it will make your life much easier and avert over stressing the camshaft. Also replace ALL the bolts, they are almost ALL stretch bolts on the D5252t.

To counterhold the crank pulley there is a copy of the VW tool kit on ebay for about £20/25 that includes also the fuel pump lock (you don't need it, but nice to have) and the cam shaft lock (you can also make this from 1/4" plate), it uses a 3/4" drive. You will need TWO 3/4" drive breaker bars and a quality impact socket. I broke my Teng tools 1/2" drive 4' bar when doing mine back up, use 3/4" as no (reasonable cost effective) 1/2" will actually do the full torque.

With all the right tools you can do all three belts, the tensioners and water pump in around 2-3hours. If you don't have the right tools and have to improvise on the fly, maybe a few days!

[Martin Cox]

When I had the head off mine, I checked I had the correct TDC mark by bringing No 1 piston to the top of its stroke and checking with a dial gauge. The correct mark was then easily identifiable and a spot of white paint on the flywheel made finding it easier subsequently.

I was able to borrow the proper Volvo crank lock tool and that in combination with a 3/4 inch drive impact socket, 500 mm extension and a 3/4 inch drive 1000 mm breaker bar meant that the crank bolt was easily and safely managed. I also used a length of scaffold pole on the end of the breaker bar which gave a little more control.

I made the remainder of the tools and they sound identical to the ones Brickman made.

Although critical, timing the camshaft is straightforward. The injector pump may involve a fair amount of guesswork but if you get it wrong, nothing breaks; it just won't start. When I had the pump timing checked, it turned out I was about 5 degrees out.

Mine finally started after I'd set the engine to No 1 TDC, set the pump marks to line up and then rotated the pump anticlockwise until I started to feel some resistance and then bolted up the cam pulley.