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Diesel Engines A forum dedicated to diesel engines fitted to Volvo cars. See the first post in this forum for a list of the diesel engines. |
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2006 V70 D5 185 EGR V Clamp removalViews : 4596 Replies : 29Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 6th, 2018, 13:28 | #11 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2024 13:38
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Emsworth,hants
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also you need to see if the turbo actuator is moving, as if the vnt is jammed up the gears in the actuator can brake,
Dave |
Jul 6th, 2018, 16:20 | #12 |
V70 D5 185 Owner
Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 15:25
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Ipswich
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Thank you Joe H for the picture, it helps to understand how it works. I'll try completely undoing the jubilee clip then prising the inner sections. They didn't move last time but with the clip completely undone I might get better access. it will be a few days before I can do this as my wife needs to use the car and from experience I need to allow a good bit of time.
Hi davebb, the car has never been re-mapped or had the EGR blanked off. I did clear the codes several times but they came back again within a few seconds. I also tried disconnecting the battery for 6 hours but nothing changed. The battery is good and the low power mode when driving indicates to me that the codes are probably accurate. From the SkintKnuckles thread I think the other codes are a consequence of the 4430 EGR code. If the 100% reading is what the ECU is asking the EGR to do, then, if it remains constant doesn't that indicate that the EGR is not responding, which can be interpreted as it being jammed? |
Jul 6th, 2018, 19:38 | #13 |
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Last Online: Today 10:26
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
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As part of normal operation once shut down the car performs a self clean of the egr using the stepper motor attached to the front of the valve. This basically moves the valve in and out. What happens normally is when the valve starts to clog the motor finds it harder to move the valve and eventually strips the internal gears. So not only do you get a non functioning egr valve but also a worn out motor.
The best fix is a new motor and valve as you know its not the easiest area to work in so may as well do them both together. I had to sort this on my 150k mile s60 before I sold it.
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Previous -03 S40, 04 V70 D5, 04 V70 D5 Sport, 05 V50, 07 S60 D5, 09 V70 D5 R design, 12 XC60 DrivE, 15 V60 D3 Current- 05 XC90 D5 Exec, 12 XC70 D4 AWD Se Lux, 14 S80 D3 Se Lux |
Jul 19th, 2018, 18:52 | #14 |
V70 D5 185 Owner
Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 15:25
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Ipswich
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So with valuable help from the forum (and Joe H the picture of the V clamp really helped) I have managed to remove the EGR and Cooler assembly the question now is what to do next.
The valve is quite clean because I cleaned it thoroughly about two years ago and again last week. Some contributors have talked about plastic gears that strip so the valve won't work and I presume these are in the black plastic electronics unit with Pierburg printed on it. A new one of these assemblies is a whole load cheaper than a whole new EGR valve so is the way to go? Is there any way I can test the functioning of the EGR valve or this electronics unit? I have removed the black electronics unit. Despite soaking them in WD40 all 4 torx screws broke on trying to undo them so these will have to be drilled out. There is some evidence of water seepage/corrosion underneath the electronics unit (see picture) but it doesn't seem to have got past the seals on the prongs and into the motor unit. This electronics unit has a plunger that rests against the cam assembly on the end of the EGR valve shaft. This plunger can move freely and it sounds as it it is moving a spring mechanism inside the casing. I assume the EGR valve opens and closes via the cam on the electric (stepper?) motor. Then as the valve moves the plunger resting on the cam works a gear to provide feedback via the electronics to the ECU. I don't think the EGR motor or valve stem has seized but I can't see how to test the EGR valve for movement. It looks as if the outer casing of the cam assembly is welded to the top of the EGR valve shaft during manufacture so to get it to move you need to rotate the motor. But I am wary of just trying to stick 12V across the terminals to see what happens. So does anybody know how to test the EGR valve or has anybody had experience of just replacing the electronics unit? http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=8461 Any advice on how to proceed from here would be appreciated. Many thanks, Chris. BTW For anybody trying to do this same job in the future I will describe how I managed to get the EGR valve out and in particular the V clamp attaching the Cooler to the Flexible pipe. Firstly to get access to the EGR valve I followed the instructions in my Haynes manual, removing the air-box and throttle body, but then it says undo the four screws and remove the valve - simples. But on the 185 Euro IV D5 it doesn't work like that. I undid the electronics connector and the vacuum pipes at the front and the manifold connecting pipe. then I removed the black plastic pipe going from the turbocharger to the airbox/MAF sensor pipe and undid cooling pipes at the rear. This improves access to the rear EGR cooler mounting bolt and the V clamp from being impossible to difficult. I completely undid the jubilee clip and pushed back the tab part as far as I could. To remove the V clip you need to separate the top and bottom halves but the jubilee clip is welded to each half of the V on the most accessible side (i.e. the bit you can see) so there is no point in trying to push them apart from this side. I soaked the V clamp in WD40 overnight, then took a small flat bladed screwdriver and, coming in from the rear bulkhead side, placed it between the two halves and pushed/levered up. This loosened the top half and in a similar way I then loosened the the bottom half. You can't easily see this as it is on the RHS (towards the centreline of the car) so it is mainly done by touch but it was surprisingly easy and worked first time for me. |
Jul 19th, 2018, 20:23 | #15 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Dec 26th, 2021 13:42
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Crewe
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You can manipulate it and view the position reading using Dice and Vida.
Personally, I'd have done this before undoing anything and there are plenty of willing members who have the equipment. .
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2002 S60 SE D5 Manual 209000 miles |
Jul 26th, 2018, 19:04 | #16 |
V70 D5 185 Owner
Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 15:25
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Ipswich
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Thank you cheshireD5 for the advice. I now have my VIDA/DICE system running again and I have re-fitted the EGR valve complete with a new Position Sensor. I can see the fault codes, clear the codes and read the data stream but I can't see how to manipulate the EGR Valve using VIDA. I cannot find an EGR or EGR Sensor option in the 'ECM Adaption' options.
The EGR position reading is still constantly at 100% and I still have the ECM-4430 No Signal DTC code. The valve is spotlessly clean inside, the Position sensor terminals looked clean and the Position Sensor is a new Pierburg unit. So it would be very useful to be able to manipulate EGR valve to see if it does move. Please will you give me some guidance on how to use VIDA to give me more information. Thanks Chris |
Jul 26th, 2018, 19:43 | #17 |
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Last Online: Dec 26th, 2021 13:42
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Location: Crewe
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Diagnostics >Vehicle Communication >ECM >Activations
Click on the EGR valve or EGR cooler bypass actuator and click start. Don't forget to click stop before moving on to anything else. For the fault description type ECM 4430 in the fault tracing section of Search in Vida.
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2002 S60 SE D5 Manual 209000 miles |
Jul 26th, 2018, 19:47 | #18 | |
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Last Online: Today 16:01
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Location: L/H side
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Quote:
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Jul 27th, 2018, 14:18 | #19 |
V70 D5 185 Owner
Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 15:25
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Ipswich
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When I took the EGR valve /Cooler assembly off I cleaned it thoroughly and removed the Position Sensor. The small black rod in the Position Sensor would push back and spring out ok. I also tested the EGR Cooler Bypass butterfly valve using a vacuum tester and this worked fine.
With the Position Sensor removed you can see the cam drive for the EGR valve stem. You can't move it longitudinally because of the cam mechanism but I could rotate back and forth it a few degrees without any problem. From this I deduced the EGR valve was not stuck so perhaps it was the electronics in the Position Sensor. So I fitted a new Pierburg 7.00555.07.0 unit prior to refitting the whole EGR assembly. I cleared all the DTC's using VIDA but unfortunately they all returned after running the engine, i.e. ECM4430 - EGR Valve - No signal ECM4150 - EGR cooler Bypass Valve - Signal too low ECM4450 - EGR Position Sensor - Faulty Signal ECM6500 - Engine Pads ECM6860 - Turbo control Actuator - Signal to low I have run the ECM Activation tests and I get no clicks (so I guess that means fail) from the EGR Valve, EGR Cooler Bypass Actuator, Turbo Control Valve Duty Cycle and Vacuum Valve Engine Mount. The Position Sensor is new and I don't think the EGR Valve stem is seized so so my thinking the problem must be in the area between the two i.e. the motor in the EGR Valve, which means a new EGR Valve. Can anybody help on the analysis. I think the EGR Motor is a sealed unit so is the only solution a new valve assembly? The Vida system refers to testing signals does this help? Is there anything else I can try? Thanks Chris |
Jul 27th, 2018, 14:34 | #20 | |
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I still think the motor is seized without being there of course ! ...
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