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Bumper pitting

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Old Jan 27th, 2021, 14:24   #11
Derek UK
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Anodising aluminium is a cheap and easy process. The shininess of the finish is dependant on the surface finish of the original material. Dye can be added to colour the finish. Thousands of pub ash trays for example. It's a type of corrosion that leaves a protective coating on the surface. Without polishing the old finish down to below the level of the original finish it's not possible to re anodise the part to give an original looking finish. That is rarely economical or even possible. Bumpers would be thick enough to give it a try if you can find a company to do the job. Polishing is expensive but basically free if you have the time and patience to do it yourself. Be prepared not to be satisfied with the final result. Every scratch in the metal that's there before re anodising will stick out like a sore thumb. Anyone that has tried to have this done please post!
Amazon owners with lots of anodised parts will know the problem.
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Old Jan 27th, 2021, 14:47   #12
Laird Scooby
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Quote:
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Anodising aluminium is a cheap and easy process.
If you're doing it in batches, yes and it's not quite as easy as many people think. There are many stages of degreasing, rinsing, acid etch baths, rinsing and so on, usually several tanks each with a rinse tank after before actually entering the final anodizing tank.

Preparation is the big thing and after polishing to remove the imperfections the many stages before the actual anodizing all take time.
If you're doing it yourself it can be reltively cheap but you'll be limited by what you can get from the mains supply you're using.
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Old Jan 27th, 2021, 15:45   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek UK View Post
Anodising aluminium is a cheap and easy process. The shininess of the finish is dependant on the surface finish of the original material. Dye can be added to colour the finish. Thousands of pub ash trays for example. It's a type of corrosion that leaves a protective coating on the surface. Without polishing the old finish down to below the level of the original finish it's not possible to re anodise the part to give an original looking finish. That is rarely economical or even possible. Bumpers would be thick enough to give it a try if you can find a company to do the job. Polishing is expensive but basically free if you have the time and patience to do it yourself. Be prepared not to be satisfied with the final result. Every scratch in the metal that's there before re anodising will stick out like a sore thumb. Anyone that has tried to have this done please post!
Amazon owners with lots of anodised parts will know the problem.
Thanks Derek. I didn’t know that about reanodising, makes sense though. I will have to make the ones I have as presentable as I can for now. They are nice and straight which isn’t always the case. There are stainless ones being sold but are quite expensive. 140 parts are a bit hard to come by in the U.K.
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Old Jan 27th, 2021, 15:48   #14
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
If you're doing it in batches, yes and it's not quite as easy as many people think. There are many stages of degreasing, rinsing, acid etch baths, rinsing and so on, usually several tanks each with a rinse tank after before actually entering the final anodizing tank.

Preparation is the big thing and after polishing to remove the imperfections the many stages before the actual anodizing all take time.
If you're doing it yourself it can be reltively cheap but you'll be limited by what you can get from the mains supply you're using.
I have some 2k aluminium silver metallic polyurethane paint which might be okay as well. I might do a trial and see what it looks like as I have never used it.
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Old Jan 27th, 2021, 19:25   #15
142 Guy
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Just a heads up. On my 1971 142 E (North American market) the bumpers are two part. There was a thin skin on the surface formed over an aluminum core.

I removed that surface skin long ago; but, my recollection was that the skin was polished aluminum. I cannot advise whether it had a clear anodized finish or a clear coat finish; but, being aluminum it would have required some type of finish to keep it from developing that common dull aluminum oxide. If my memory is correct about the skin being aluminum any polishing will further damage the remaining anodizing / clear coat putting you on a maintenance treadmill. You have the option of mechanically polishing the skin to remove all the blemishes and then clear coating or having a clear powder coat applied (after removing the rubber strips for the curing process).

As I mentioned I removed the skin because in my case the skin was in really bad condition and had already started to separate from the core. After removal, I found that the core also had some serious surface pits so simple polishing and clear coating was not an option. Once the skin starts to separate it becomes wonderful trap for moisture and corrosion. I initially just sprayed the aluminum cores in a satin black (period correct for the '80s 'tuner look'). When I did a complete resto on my car I considered having the bumper cores sprayed is a two part 'chrome' powder coat. Because of the pitting on the cores I would have to use a high temperature filler to withstand the high cure temperature which was extra effort. Since the car was being re sprayed I elected to use a conventional filler and color match the bumpers to the car. The chrome powder coats are good; but, you definitely will not mistake them for chrome or highly polished aluminum.

I can't comment on what your 2K polyurethane paint will look like; but, if you have corrosion pits make sure you sand them out (fine pits) or level them with filler. Nothing amplifies poor surface condition like a new glossy paint coat .

I am not so sure about anodizing being a cheap and easy process in the context of the home workshop. Setting up for a piece as large as the bumper and the amount of chemical required may not be cheap for a one or two part fix. I used to race sailboats and was perpetually doing touch up on the anodizing on aluminum spars and like because of surface damage. Those repairs were for surface protection and definitely were not cosmetic. Anodizing is an inexpensive and easy treatment when you have a large production run and can dip the parts in large vats of chemical.

Last edited by 142 Guy; Jan 27th, 2021 at 19:38.
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Old Jan 27th, 2021, 20:21   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 142 Guy View Post
Just a heads up. On my 1971 142 E (North American market) the bumpers are two part. There was a thin skin on the surface formed over an aluminum core.

I removed that surface skin long ago; but, my recollection was that the skin was polished aluminum. I cannot advise whether it had a clear anodized finish or a clear coat finish; but, being aluminum it would have required some type of finish to keep it from developing that common dull aluminum oxide. If my memory is correct about the skin being aluminum any polishing will further damage the remaining anodizing / clear coat putting you on a maintenance treadmill. You have the option of mechanically polishing the skin to remove all the blemishes and then clear coating or having a clear powder coat applied (after removing the rubber strips for the curing process).

As I mentioned I removed the skin because in my case the skin was in really bad condition and had already started to separate from the core. After removal, I found that the core also had some serious surface pits so simple polishing and clear coating was not an option. Once the skin starts to separate it becomes wonderful trap for moisture and corrosion. I initially just sprayed the aluminum cores in a satin black (period correct for the '80s 'tuner look'). When I did a complete resto on my car I considered having the bumper cores sprayed is a two part 'chrome' powder coat. Because of the pitting on the cores I would have to use a high temperature filler to withstand the high cure temperature which was extra effort. Since the car was being re sprayed I elected to use a conventional filler and color match the bumpers to the car. The chrome powder coats are good; but, you definitely will not mistake them for chrome or highly polished aluminum.

I can't comment on what your 2K polyurethane paint will look like; but, if you have corrosion pits make sure you sand them out (fine pits) or level them with filler. Nothing amplifies poor surface condition like a new glossy paint coat .

I am not so sure about anodizing being a cheap and easy process in the context of the home workshop. Setting up for a piece as large as the bumper and the amount of chemical required may not be cheap for a one or two part fix. I used to race sailboats and was perpetually doing touch up on the anodizing on aluminum spars and like because of surface damage. Those repairs were for surface protection and definitely were not cosmetic. Anodizing is an inexpensive and easy treatment when you have a large production run and can dip the parts in large vats of chemical.
I'll just clean the new one up for now and fit it. will try some diluted citric acid solution and see if that does anything to the pits. I ordered some MacGuiars metal polish which is supposed to be good as well so will see how that goes too.

I'll keep an eye for some NOS or better bumpers in the meantime. Or perhaps new stainless ones if I do a resto later on.
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Old Jan 28th, 2021, 00:37   #17
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Evening , a fine scotchbrite pad & soapy water to remove debris , just rub lightly until you get the finish you desire . Avoid rubbing hard as you will wear away the protective surface finish
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Old Jan 28th, 2021, 12:46   #18
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If you are going to paint the items then they can be treated as doing aluminum wheels (DIY)
After cleaning fill the pit holes will aluminum 2 part filler & sand back etc.
With a descent finish on the above then the paint will look far better especially with a clear top coat.
Hope it helps.
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