Suspension: How to change rear shocks and/or springs

[morsing]

Originally Posted by Andrew (UK)

I would love to read all methods of doing the rear TA bushings. I have not attempted this yet and am still trying to find a method that I could make work. The description I have seen of the home made tool uses items you can only find in the US which I can't seem to find online.

I might be interested in selling mine after I'm done with it...

[brens-s80]

Originally Posted by morsing

I might be interested in selling mine after I'm done with it...

Hi Morsing,

Can you put me down as first dibs if you do decide to sell ?.
regards

brendan

[Clifford Pope]

Basically it is much harder pressing the old bushes out than getting the new ones in, because the sleeves will be rusted. But in their favour is the fact that the bush tapers, and the two lugs on the axle casing have slightly different internal diameters. So once you have managed to move the sleeve a bit, it rapidly loosens as you move down the taper.

But once you appreciate that you don't need to get the old bush out intact, the problem becomes simply one of how to cut and bash it out. If you cut out the middle section with an angle grinder (mind the handbrake cable!) the remaining two rings of probably rusty metal can simply be crumpled with a hammer and cold chisel.
Getting the new bush into the cleaned up lugs just needs a long bit of threaded rod with nuts, and various large washers and spacers to bear on the bush and keep the lugs from bending.
There's a bit more to the detail than that, but in essence that is all you need to do.

[Mike_Brace]

I would agree that rebushing is likely to come along with springs and shocks. However, there can be need to change springs shocks at any time. I'm specifically thinking of anyone fiiting heavier duty springs or like in my case replacing the shocks at 120,000 miles but only three years after bushes. teh bushes degrade as much through age as anything although my non-Volvo front ones have needed replacement but they never seem to last as long as the rears.
I am in the process of writing up the rear buch replacement but the work was not finished last week so it is a case of waiting for the car to be available.
I am covering this as a seperate article as i am trying do make my "how to" articles into small jobs. Nothing worse IMHO than wading through masses of irrelevant info. That I regard as the problem with Haynes - only complete strip-down and rebuild nothing on the usual jobs that need doing on there own.
I will write a short bit about springs and useage/characteristics as a simple guide and add it to this thread soon.

Mike

[Suterman]

These Guides are really useful. Thanks Mike, I will be printing them off soon.

I was considering tackling the bushes on my 240 but decided against it as if I screw it up and the car is Immobile (in pieces) then I will be stuck with it on the drive.

I recently got a quote for all suspension bushes swapped for £90 (labour only)

Seeing as it would have more than likely taken up at least a saturday and perhaps sunday too, £90 sounds great.

PS, an easy way of removing old stubborn bushes is to burn them out on a fire.

[Paul240480]

Could'nt agree more Suterman. I've already started a folder with these 'How to s') printed off ans 'sleeved up'.

If I could find someone to do my bushes for £90 I'd snap there hands off. Go for it!

[Mike_Brace]

I promised a bit of guidance regarding springs. I have tried about six times to write and post this piece and have come to the conclusion I prefer 240s to computers - at least I understand them!

There are two standard rear springs available from the likes of Volvo or Euro Car Parts amongst others. they are:
standard saloon rear springs
standard estate rear springs

From specialists the following are available
heavy duty rear springs
cargo rear springs (discontinued?)
progressive rear spring (discontinued?)
lowering rear springs

The standard saloon/estate rear springs are idle for normal use and will restore the rear end to ride properly and eliminate that rear end droop. If you have a saloon that regularly carrries a little more weight (eg lpg tank) or you want a stiffer ride the estate springs are ideal.
The heavy duty springs are great for a car regularly carrying a lot of weight or towing. This enables it to maintain ride height better even when laden. The downside is empty bumps are more noticeable and under enthusiastic cornering the tail can be slightly skittish. Under load the ride and handling are excellent.
The cargo springs are a little stiffer again and I believe are discontinued. The progreesive spring is an ideal sprng for both empty and laden. On this sthe coils are unevenly spaced - when laden the coils that are closer together can actually compress till they touch. however, the remaining coils still provide normal type travel. They are made by Kilen industri ab part no.V7660. I believe they are discomtinued. If anyone can find out where they can be obtained I would love to know as they are such a good spring for estates.
Finally the lowering springs are intended for use with front lowering springs. If you want to carry anything (even passengers) in the car they are not very practical. Standard rear combined with lowered fronts are a better option. If lowering remember that the steering geometry will need resetting.


Mike

[minesa240x3]

Hi mike! Just a silly question,but what other cars in your experience used coils on the rear the sort of size volvo ones are.

The reason I ask is that way back when I got my first 240 estate I had a look round the local breakers with a view to finding a heavier vehicle to maybe upgrade the springs from,I couldn't find anything that had similar,even the 7 series I looked at seemed a lot narrower.Hence why I gave up and brought some heavyduty ones.

didn't know they existed until I asked for standard and the salesman came back with the heavy duty ones and offered me them at normal price.They had been on the shelf for a very long time and he wanted rid.I have swapped them to each car I have bought and they still perform excellant.

I also have the rubber towing aids which fit inside the coils and only start working when the load is considerable.ie old heavy caravan,two grown up girls the wife two dogs and an endless supply of female must haves!!

Oh and if you have seen the pictures I posted when fully laden she sits quite well,I am also one of the last people in the world to still use a windslammer.YES it does work when fitted as far back as possible,Towing a square front caravan you could feel it pulling bigtime and once fitted there is no feeling of resistance at all.
Cheers Brian.

[Mike_Brace]

Nothing springs to mind to be honest.

Mike

[minesa240x3]

BOING!said Zebidee!