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C30 / S40 & V50 '04-'12 / C70 '06-'13 General Forum for the P1-platform C30 / S40 / V50 / C70 models |
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2008 C70 Trunk Divider Switch helpViews : 1327 Replies : 9Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 13th, 2020, 04:42 | #1 |
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2008 C70 Trunk Divider Switch help
Hi, I am new to the forum and Volvo in general. I just got a low mileage 2008 C70. The Trunk divider that latches down into the two clips in the trunk floor is missing the Stud on the driver side which I believe activates the switch to allow the top to open and retract. Is there a way to by pass this switch? Can a magnet be used to activate it and cycle the roof up and down? I haven’t found a replacement divider yet to repair it and would like to cycle the roof to see if it works or if anything else needs attention. Thanks in advance for any input!
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Jul 13th, 2020, 09:47 | #2 |
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It's a hall-sensor, so you just need a suitable sized bit of metal to trigger it.
If you compare the left and right hand latches, you should see that the right hand latch is a single piece moulding, and the left hand latch has a rectangular piece set into it. The rectangular piece is the tip of the hall-sensor. If you duct tape a bolt on top of the sensor, it should be enough to trigger it. |
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Jul 13th, 2020, 09:59 | #3 |
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+1 on pinballdave's post.
I'm assuming your C70 is LHD so this makes sense The hall sensor for the roof divider is fitted to the LH divider clip in the floor (the RH clip is passive). If your bar/post is missing on the divider, then the sensor won't be triggered and you should get the divider warning on the dash. If you havent seen it, then this doc. is very useful: - https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/c7...-Technical.pdf
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Jul 14th, 2020, 04:29 | #4 |
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Thanks for the help!
All I had to do was place a small magnet on the switch and it worked. I put a bolt on it first but it didn’t activate it. Now I have another question, is there any sort of cleaner or conditioner I can use on all of the seals and weatherstripping? I hope to make this last as long as I can! |
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Jul 14th, 2020, 10:38 | #5 |
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Good news on the divider.
Glad you are tackling the seals. Probably very wise in a Houston climate! They cost a fortunte to replace, so looking after them is so important, and regular lubrication will prevent leakage which can be disastrous. I use the following regime (as per attached document): - Put roof in service/maintenance position. VIDA is useful to put the roof in the maintenance position as its awkward to reach all the seals. If you don't have VIDA, just stop the roof when it is about 3/4 open. Don't forget to complete the cycle when finished though. Drop all the windows as you'll need to climb in the back of the car and get in some awkward positions! Clean the seals thoroughly with water/shampoo to remove all the dirt. Make sure you get under the folds in the seals as the dirt and grit gets trapped easily. Let them dry for an hour. Follow this with a wipedown with Isopropyl Alcohol - IPA (1161721 or alternative from local supplier), then treat with Krytox GPL-105 [1161840] (not Nextzett gummi pflege stift as it doesn't last). I do this twice a year. Don't forget to do the seals on the leading edge of the rear windows too! ZAROX OYN 14 or Slugslime Fluorofluid are alternatives to Krytox. Krytox is expensive but you need only a tiny amount. If you have time, I always do the seal cleaning process on all of the seals on the car (doors, boot etc.), plus check the boot drain holes near the rear windows when the boot is open. These block regularly and a poke around with a long zip tie normally does the trick in unblocking. If they are clear you will see water running out of the drains behind the rear wheels. While the seals are drying, I do a quick lubrication of the roof mechanism too. I do this whole process twice a year, but annually should be ok.
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Jul 14th, 2020, 12:09 | #6 | |
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quite expensive .
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Jul 14th, 2020, 16:41 | #7 |
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Thanks for the info! I will search for these products here in the Houston area.
This is sort of a side question, will treating the seals help the windows slide on them easier? I noticed the drivers side window often sticks about 3/4” from fully closed at the top, sometimes a few cycles up and down will get it to close all the way, but it has on occasion stopped working and gone to the 1/2 way up position. I just let is sit for an hour or so and it then rolled up fine, but the only thing I can imagine might be happening is that it is hitting resistance on the seals before it is fully closed? Have you ever seen this type of thing happen? |
Jul 14th, 2020, 17:18 | #8 |
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This thread might help.
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...opping+halfway Clan has some good advice within that might be useful.
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Now: - MY12 XC60 SE Lux Premium D3 Geartonic AWD, MY09 XC70 D5 SE Lux Geartronic AWD, MY08 C70 SE Lux D5 Geartronic & 1994 480GT Previously: - MY08 V50 2.0D SE Lux, MY08 S40 1.8 SE, MY10 C70 SE Lux 2.0D Powershift, & ’99 V40 2.0T SE Lux |
Jul 14th, 2020, 20:10 | #9 | |
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