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XC90 '02–'15 General Forum for the P2-platform XC90 model |
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2011 D5 Post sales inspectionViews : 1651 Replies : 23Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 10th, 2020, 09:55 | #11 |
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Every time you change the engine oil, you do a complete change, not a partial change.
It's pretty much the same as the "flush" method for a gearbox change. You're progressively changing all the oil, rather than only 1/2 at a time. It's not like you're doing it at high velocity, with a solvent etc. Yes, any change to clean oil has the potential dislodge material, but if it's that bad, it's probably terminal anyway. Damien |
Jul 10th, 2020, 12:37 | #12 |
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I'm sorry to have to say this but there is a lot of BS being talked here about gearbox flushing.
The oil in the gearbox is the working fluid as well as a lubricant. It is permanently pumped around the box, whenever the engine is running. A drain and fill will only change a fraction of the oil as most of it is in the galleries and (especially) the torque converter. The oil degrades over time, especially if it gets hot. A complete flush (which is a Volvo procedure) is easy to do DIY if you wish and will definately improve the operation of the box if it has done 50k or more. It is the only way to change the oil properly. I have done it myself twice and had no issues. The box was smooth as silk afterwards. Forget all this guff about dislodging debris. Rant over
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Jul 10th, 2020, 13:19 | #13 |
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I think you are right gmonag as the chances of a full flush creating problems is small but this has been known so there is a risk however small which should be understood, but lessened by doing the drain and fill method.
The bigger risk of course is that a full flush will remove 99% of the old oil which will contain contaminants providing a higher viscosity and so hide potential clutch issues. When replaced the clutches can start slipping, but if this is the case then the box needs refurbishing anyway and this problem would be showing itself very soon, even with a drain and fill. |
Jul 11th, 2020, 00:00 | #14 | |
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The Independent Volvo garage I bring my car to doesn't do transmission flushing, nor do they recommend it (They only do drain & fills). I know plenty of other garages that don't recommend flushing either, nor do they offer it as part of their services. These are professional garages with trained technicians, so I consider their advice to be sound & something I personally take heed of. Whether you do the same is your choice.
Flush your transmission if you want to. Saying a complete flush is the only way to do the 'job properly' isn't correct - Its the only way if you want to replace the fluid all in one go. You can do multiple drain & fills of the transmission over a period of time, if required, based on the condition of the existing fluid & it'll be just as clean as flushing it all at once in the end - That's also another way of doing the 'job properly'. Although, it might take a bit longer to do admittedly because its done in stages, but its less risky too. Do as you please, call it BS, call it what you want... Its your car & its your decision what you decide to do with it. I'm only offering an opinion & advice I've been given. Whether you take heed is up to you. Quote:
Draining via the sump doesn't remove all the engine oil, there is still a considerable amount deep within the internals of the engine that you can't access. Why do you think the owner's manuals for vehicles say a car holds x amount of oil, yet when you go to service it, you need much less than the figure quoted? Those figures are based on a completely dry engine & the only time that would occur would be at manufacturing. So when you do your oil change, you're draining the oil out of the engine via the sump & filling it back up through the oil filler neck... You aren't doing a complete change like you may think. The same principle applies when draining & filling the transmission... You aren't removing all the fluid either, the same as an oil change.
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2007 (P3) Volvo S80 SE 2.4D (163bhp) - 109,000 miles. Black exterior with cream leather interior. Last edited by Kev0607; Jul 11th, 2020 at 00:56. |
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Jul 11th, 2020, 01:04 | #15 |
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Is it just possible that there is some misunderstanding by what is meant by "flush"?
To me, it means draining as much of the old oil as will come out then filling with a thinner "flushing oil" (intended to penetrate all the little nooks and crannies and get the crud out), drain that and then fill with lovely fresh oil of the correct spec. The above is of course in an engine, not an auto box, where the "character" (cleanliness and condition) of the oil will determine (to a certain extent) the performance of the box. I can appreciate the reluctance of some to (potentially) dislodge crud and then to have that suspended in the oil until the umteenth part change cleans the oil enough to not impact the operation of the box. Cheers Dave |
Jul 11th, 2020, 21:01 | #16 | |
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Quote:
This circulation goes on continuously whenever the engine is running. Intercepting the old oil and replacing it with fresh oil will not stir up crud any more than it does all the time. In fact, diverting the old oil will remove any crud with it (which is the whole point). Draining the gearbox sump will deliver 2.2lt of old oil. The gearbox holds over 7lt. If you drain and refill, the new oil will mix with the old and the second drain and refill will change another 2lt of the mixed (diluted) oil. You will have to repeat the procedure a dozen times to change the oil completely. The flush takes about 10 minutes and you only need to do it once. You are correct. It is my car and I will do as I want, but please stop spreading this old-wives tale about flushing stirring up crud in the gearbox.
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Jul 11th, 2020, 22:42 | #17 |
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Here is a good example of how a gearbox flush can damage your gearbox.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EwOLHxawq4Q They did the Volvo flush procedure correctly but their gearbox stopped working very soon after. It is also worth noting that most auto boxes have a filter than can be changed easily. Unfortunately, the gearbox needs to be dismantled to replace the filter (stupid design) with these Volvo/Asin boxes. Which is another reason not to flush them.
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2002 Volvo V70 2.4 n/a auto |
Jul 11th, 2020, 23:56 | #18 | |
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Quote:
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Jul 12th, 2020, 00:10 | #19 |
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Sorry my bad, they did a follow up video where they said it died after the flush
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2002 Volvo V70 2.4 n/a auto |
Jul 12th, 2020, 00:26 | #20 |
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It died DESPITE the flush.
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