Hot wheel - burning rubber - Page 3

John Underhill · Nov 25th, 2015, 23:10

Thanks for your responses. The visible part of the piston is pretty rusty, but it pushed back OK with a screw G Clamp with a 1 inch thumb screw, it seemed to be the same effort as the "good" side, though incidentally that hub was pretty warm after the 3 mile run too - the fronts were stone cold!

When I fitted the new discs and pads I clamped off the brake pipe and pushed the old piston fluid out through the bleed nipple. Fluid was last changed about 35k miles ago (5 years) and will be changed with the new callipers, I have a pressure bleed system which makes the job easy.

I considered rebuilding the callipers but from all accounts it is a bit hit and miss with the rears and the PFV ones are £60! These are new units with all the hardware and not the usual rebuilt units with a £30 deposit on the old ones, so not bad value.

4candles · Nov 25th, 2015, 23:47

It could be a flexi issue, its not unheard of for some fools thinking its ok clamping the brake flexi with locking pliers (vice-grips), this damages the inner lining which can then make it act as a one way valve which holds the pressure on and releases it too slow. Seen it before.

John Underhill · Dec 5th, 2015, 21:00

Well, just to finish the saga, I fitted the new callipers, changed the fluid to Ate SL6 and all is fine - nice firm pedal feel and progressive braking - no residual heat in the rear wheels/hubs after a run

Still a residual burnt brake smell in the cabin though

Thanks to all who contributed

The old original Volvo 108k miles rear callipers are up for grabs if anybody needs them? The NSR was OK before changing! I haven't stripped them.

Nov 25th, 2015, 23:10	#21
John Underhill Junior Member Last Online: Mar 15th, 2024 21:21 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Didcot	Thanks for your responses. The visible part of the piston is pretty rusty, but it pushed back OK with a screw G Clamp with a 1 inch thumb screw, it seemed to be the same effort as the "good" side, though incidentally that hub was pretty warm after the 3 mile run too - the fronts were stone cold! When I fitted the new discs and pads I clamped off the brake pipe and pushed the old piston fluid out through the bleed nipple. Fluid was last changed about 35k miles ago (5 years) and will be changed with the new callipers, I have a pressure bleed system which makes the job easy. I considered rebuilding the callipers but from all accounts it is a bit hit and miss with the rears and the PFV ones are £60! These are new units with all the hardware and not the usual rebuilt units with a £30 deposit on the old ones, so not bad value. __________________ 52 Silver V70 D5 SE Manual

Nov 25th, 2015, 23:47	#22
4candles I've Been Banned Last Online: Mar 19th, 2016 19:57 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Yondershire	It could be a flexi issue, its not unheard of for some fools thinking its ok clamping the brake flexi with locking pliers (vice-grips), this damages the inner lining which can then make it act as a one way valve which holds the pressure on and releases it too slow. Seen it before. Last edited by 4candles; Nov 26th, 2015 at 00:08.

Dec 5th, 2015, 21:00	#23
John Underhill Junior Member Last Online: Mar 15th, 2024 21:21 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Didcot	Update! Well, just to finish the saga, I fitted the new callipers, changed the fluid to Ate SL6 and all is fine - nice firm pedal feel and progressive braking - no residual heat in the rear wheels/hubs after a run Still a residual burnt brake smell in the cabin though Thanks to all who contributed The old original Volvo 108k miles rear callipers are up for grabs if anybody needs them? The NSR was OK before changing! I haven't stripped them. __________________ 52 Silver V70 D5 SE Manual

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