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Deadlocked car with no working key - observations

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Old Mar 5th, 2019, 12:02   #11
LizardOfBodom
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Out of curiosity (havent enquired about it as owner still didnt decide what to do) - will programming the non-working key be cheaper than programming new one or its the same software needed? (ofcourse price of actual new key aside).

Also if there is no working keys present, what is official "volvo recommended" way to enable Vida connection and connecting with disabled car. Powering up trough CEM or some other fancy method?
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Old Mar 5th, 2019, 16:04   #12
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Emm... unexpected turn of events...

I found out about it just now but still cant wrap my head around it.
I am just looking at a generic ebay-like copy of Volvo key that actually STARTS this car and opens it with the blade. remote fob doesnt work.
Car never left our parking lot, in fact was here with battery disconnected until 10am this morning. All I know is that independent locksmith was called in, his van was here for about 10 minutes. Now car starts.
Just to remind all - there was no working keys present and no physical blade on the non-working key.
Whole operation was 150e.

Can someone please explain it to me as I am literally blown away at this moment? I have my theory but need other opinions.

Also I called them straight away ofcourse, I was quoted 100e for a replacement key for my car if I come over and wait 2hrs... Car will start and blade will work but remote fob wont.

How does it stand against the well-known statement "you need to tow your car to volvo and spend kidney bla bla bla...."
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Old Mar 5th, 2019, 17:32   #13
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Very interesting indeed.
Keep us informed as i could find myself down this avenue one day.
My car came with just one key, dashboard diagnostics shows two keys programmed.
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Old Mar 5th, 2019, 17:41   #14
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It's a simple explanation. The original key is actually in the car somewhere because it's signal is clearly within range to allow the other key to start it.

As for the blade, it's not a particularly complex pattern and when it was picked it's probably been smoothed off inside so anything will turn it.

Last edited by Bendolfc; Mar 5th, 2019 at 17:43.
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Old Mar 6th, 2019, 10:33   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bendolfc View Post
It's a simple explanation. The original key is actually in the car somewhere because it's signal is clearly within range to allow the other key to start it.

As for the blade, it's not a particularly complex pattern and when it was picked it's probably been smoothed off inside so anything will turn it.
Hehe, if it was only that simple
a) car is NOT keyless entry, require a key in ignition physically in all the time
b) regardless, key was NOT in the car, interior was literally torn apart after opening - no key
c) the barrel is intact and my blade WONT open it, the newly cut blade is distinctively patterned and looks very OEM. I will check today if it works on glovebox lock, just to confirm it is indeed from that car, as by the looks of it barrel wasnt physically replaced at all.
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Old Mar 6th, 2019, 11:53   #16
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Have you tried it on your car, I don't think the key needs to physically be in the ignition, just within range. Unfortunately I don't have access to a 2nd non programmed key to test.

Or the other option is someone found they key and put it on ebay and you bought it.
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Old Mar 6th, 2019, 14:54   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bendolfc View Post
Have you tried it on your car, I don't think the key needs to physically be in the ignition, just within range. Unfortunately I don't have access to a 2nd non programmed key to test.

Or the other option is someone found they key and put it on ebay and you bought it.
ee...no, key needs to be physically in ignition. When you insert it and is recognised, car does "bzzt" to unlock steering wheel.
I repeat - it is NOT a keyless entry car. My key wont start it, the second key that came with the car wont start it either.

The ebay suggestion is ridiculous, did you read the whole story?
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Old Mar 7th, 2019, 04:00   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LizardOfBodom View Post
ee...no, key needs to be physically in ignition. When you insert it and is recognised, car does "bzzt" to unlock steering wheel.
I repeat - it is NOT a keyless entry car. My key wont start it, the second key that came with the car wont start it either.

The ebay suggestion is ridiculous, did you read the whole story?
LizardOfBodom, hahaha, you made me come here from swedespeed. couldn’t resist the curiousity. Did you check in the car settings how many keys it shows???

Last edited by Facusan; Mar 7th, 2019 at 04:31.
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Old Mar 7th, 2019, 09:42   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Facusan View Post
LizardOfBodom, hahaha, you made me come here from swedespeed. couldn’t resist the curiousity. Did you check in the car settings how many keys it shows???
Ha! welcome!
no, havent checked yet, he came to work after I was gone but I am hoping to check today.
As I mentioned on SS I am planning on getting replacement key on Sat myself so that will share some more light on this mystery.

There is one thing that is actually worrying me a bit - with his car being 1.6D and known for "loosing key code when battery disconnected etc because of that model just being that way" , maybe the way of coding a key differs on his car vs the T5 electronic. Just guessing out loud here, but you hear so much about how those ford/mazda engines differs from 5pot Volvo ones, I wonder will that make key coding totally different or still the same rules apply?
I guess I find out after I come over with the car and get them to try.
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Old Mar 7th, 2019, 15:19   #20
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update: checking on waterfall display, car says it has only 2 keys programmed in.
Also I tried to start it with mine and it didnt work so immobiliser still works.

still baffled
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