MOT Failure - Foot brake 'efficiency'

[S60D5-185]

Originally Posted by spiralarms

Yes, done that. With 2 clicks of the peddle, they already binding. You can still turn the wheels with a bit of effort. I can't press more than 9 clicks, does anyone know how many clicks there are? It doesn't feel like there's much room for more.

Though there seemed to be plenty of material left on the shoes, I'll order some new ones, but I forgot to measure the diameter of the inner hub, so I'll need to get them off again before I can.

If you have a look at the Volvo shoes, they have a flat on the top of the linings.

Use these.

[WrathOfKain]

Originally Posted by spiralarms

Yes, done that. With 2 clicks of the peddle, they already binding. You can still turn the wheels with a bit of effort. I can't press more than 9 clicks, does anyone know how many clicks there are? It doesn't feel like there's much room for more.

Though there seemed to be plenty of material left on the shoes, I'll order some new ones, but I forgot to measure the diameter of the inner hub, so I'll need to get them off again before I can.

I am looking to do this soon but concerned given your experiences you are having. I find i need to go down a fair few clicks before it holds too. I believe that it should just be a 3-4 clicks. I havent tried the cable as yet and was going to fit that adjuster as general opinion states that is a big hitter for improvements.

I intend to:
1 - Replace shoes
2 - Add the modified adjusters
3 - Cable adjustment

Not quite sure of the order tbh but like i said worried you seem to have done most things without success.

[spiralarms]

Originally Posted by S60D5-185

If you have a look at the Volvo shoes, they have a flat on the top of the linings.

Use these.

Ah. I looked through the photos I took when I was cleaning things up and making sure nothing was seized, and it doesn't look like they are genuine Volvo shoes. Though I'm sure that's what I asked to be put on (having previously read everyone say "use genunine volvo parts"), they have no flat top. That gives me something concrete to do. Ta.

As regards the previous comment about "use it or lose it", I can understand how that would apply to the articulated connectors etc, but does it also apply to the braking surfaces? In my case, I am guilty of tending not to use the footbrake on the flat (I don't want to stretch the cables unnecessarily), but my wife uses the brake all the time. Which usually means I drive off with it still on!

Neil

[spiralarms]

Originally Posted by WrathOfKain

I intend to:
1 - Replace shoes
2 - Add the modified adjusters
3 - Cable adjustment

Not quite sure of the order tbh but like i said worried you seem to have done most things without success.

There will be more qualified people than myself, but from my own experience. Doing the cable adjuster is easier (but still a fiddle), than dismantling the rear brakes to get to the shoes and install the adjusters. Though you'll probably need to do the cable adjust too, after doing the shoes.

I followed some Russian chap's video on YouTube of removing the center console to make getting at the cable adjuster easier. It's also handy should the cable connections from the y-splitter come off and need reattached.

Neil

[WrathOfKain]

Originally Posted by spiralarms

There will be more qualified people than myself, but from my own experience. Doing the cable adjuster is easier (but still a fiddle), than dismantling the rear brakes to get to the shoes and install the adjusters. Though you'll probably need to do the cable adjust too, after doing the shoes.

I followed some Russian chap's video on YouTube of removing the center console to make getting at the cable adjuster easier. It's also handy should the cable connections from the y-splitter come off and need reattached.

Neil

Yeah i watched that one .... but saw another chaps:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQgHx5nt1GI

Mind you he didnt seem to be too sure about it either.

Just reading your post above .... bummer ... you ask ...pay .... but dont get .... i am ordering these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-Bra...97.m4902.l9144

[S60D5-185]

Originally Posted by spiralarms

Ah. I looked through the photos I took when I was cleaning things up and making sure nothing was seized, and it doesn't look like they are genuine Volvo shoes. Though I'm sure that's what I asked to be put on (having previously read everyone say "use genunine volvo parts"), they have no flat top. That gives me something concrete to do. Ta.

As regards the previous comment about "use it or lose it", I can understand how that would apply to the articulated connectors etc, but does it also apply to the braking surfaces? In my case, I am guilty of tending not to use the footbrake on the flat (I don't want to stretch the cables unnecessarily), but my wife uses the brake all the time.
Neil

What use it or loose it actually means is every few weeks whilst travelling slowly ( about 10mph ) gently apply the parking brake a few clicks to LIGHTLY put the shoe surface in contact with the drum surface for maybe 20 metres or so. Do not be rough.

This keeps everything nice and clean and aids efficiency.

Remember that with the Volvo parking brake, the only time that it has any work to do is when the car is stationary and it is applied, unlike many other cars where the parking brake is just part of the service brake and all of the surfaces are being constantly used and swept clean.

The Volvo parking brake needs to be swept clean as well and that is achieved by doing what I suggested.

[drjarmin]

Did the cable adjustment in the cabin and managed to get my efficiency up from 13% to just over 17% and enough to pass the MOT retest.

I found the printed instructions for the cable adjustment really confusing but managed to get it sorted with the help from a couple of friends.

My order of new rear rotors, pads, springs etc arrived including a set of those adjusters from EBay so need to get this all fitted before the MOT next year. Probably a job for October as it’s scorchingly hot and humid here at the moment and too hot for this type of work unless absolutely necessary. Will share some pics if useful come the autumn.

[Harley Dave]

I'll be doing the exact same job later this year/early next too, so will await your "how to" pics with interest.

Cheers

Dave

[Clan]

Originally Posted by john langrick

Yup, I agree with that.

Mine had observations each year, for the last few years, re ineffective handbreak, until my indie fitted adjusters.

Last year, had adjusters fitted prior to mot and delighted there was no mention of hsnxbreak and it actually does work well.

Also use genuine Volvo shoes.

I understand the ideal fix would be to get it working without the adjusters, which, I understand, were designed for another Volvo model. But you will be surprised at how they improve efficiency on an XC90.


But do use the break occasionally as far too easy just to leave it in park.

Oh l

By a bodge which does not support the shoes properly, the adjusters get past other inadequacies in the parking brake mechanism ...
The original H bar has close fitting slots which hold the two shoes squarely to the surface of the drum so they act as one ...
The Brake works fine when it has it's original parts correctly fitted and bedded in and in proper working condition ..

[S60D5-185]

Clan, when these cars were new they had a parking brake which was adequate but that was as good as it got.

As you very well know these adjusters were fitted as standard to many models throughout the Volvo range.

On a 10 plus year old Xc90 why replace a load of components with new when for less than £15 you end up with a very efficient parking brake.

As you know, I value your opinion greatly but in this respect I think that you are being pedantic and asking people to spend a small fortune in parts and labour based on an unsupported personal opinion as to whether these adjusters are up to the job.