Antiroll bars - Page 2

Ralphead · Jun 26th, 2012, 23:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by ian2000t

Thought if you had too stiff a roll bar on the front and not enough on the rear it would tend to cause understeer?

True.

If you're replacing the rear dampers then you could leave the arb (or lack of) alone and see what it's like.

Steve940estate · Jun 27th, 2012, 00:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by ian2000t

Well the front of.mine feels nice now, much flatter than before anyway, but the back is all over the place so need new rear shocks and anti roll bar then I might start hunting for the early 960 24mm one. Thought if you had too stiff a roll bar on the front and not enough on the rear it would tend to cause understeer?

According to how things should work a bigger front bar or nothing on the rear would cause more understeer. I felt with my car the amount of body roll it had was causing the understeer. If you were doing things properly you would fit much stiffer front springs to sort this out first but that means getting something specially made.

940 diesel springs aren't much more heavy duty than petrol ones, they just have 1 or 2 more coils. I'm interested to know if your 760 ones are made from thicker wire. 740 diesel one are supposed to be.

Neoott · Jun 27th, 2012, 15:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve940estate

940 diesel springs aren't much more heavy duty than petrol ones, they just have 1 or 2 more coils. I'm interested to know if your 760 ones are made from thicker wire. 740 diesel one are supposed to be.

I'd like to know this too. As I'm trying to source better suspension all round for my 740 and just trying to fine things out at the mo.

ian2000t · Jun 28th, 2012, 12:57

Since chopping 1 & 1/4 and adding the Bilsteins the front is now much stiffer - doing the bounce test requires much more effort.

Will get the measuring calipers out and let you know the wire thickness. They only have about 6 coils (before the chop). Only got one pic of them, before I chopped them:

But, although you are right about stiffening the springs rather than fitting larger AR bars - you then end up with a much harsher ride, which I wouldn't want - stiffer yes, but bone shaking.. no thanks - I've got the Mini for that!!

Re: Rear AR bar - at the moment I haven't got the ££ for the rear shocks, but I do have a rear AR bar from a saloon sat attached to my old 1041 axle in my parents garden, so it's not going to cost me anything to give it a try!

ian2000t · Jun 28th, 2012, 13:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by volvo-express

Thats the one to go for that is the easiest to retor fit. As you said above the 960's is the source, I got one from a 1991 car as the suspension is the same.

It fits your diesel ok then?

barkster1971 · Jun 28th, 2012, 14:38

The thickest stock one was off the early 90's 960's which is 24mm. With it being a diesel I'd check to make sure it clears the sump as there's not a lot of room for error between the ARB and the sump!
IPD do front and back 25mm ARB's but they'd be a bit pricey to get from the US of A. They also did a 28mm one at one point. An under chassis brace would help too.

Steve940estate · Jun 28th, 2012, 17:15

I think you could go for slightly stiffer springs and not notice much difference. My car seemed to just try and trip over the outside wheel in a corner.
The spring rate will increase slightly when you cut a coil off, you probably end up with something similar to what you get in a lowered spring kit.

I have a list of wire diameters somewhere, some gained from aftermarket spring catalogues which I was never sure was right, and some off Vadis. I will have a look.

smithy · Jun 28th, 2012, 22:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve940estate

I think you could go for slightly stiffer springs and not notice much difference. My car seemed to just try and trip over the outside wheel in a corner.
The spring rate will increase slightly when you cut a coil off, you probably end up with something similar to what you get in a lowered spring kit.

I have a list of wire diameters somewhere, some gained from aftermarket spring catalogues which I was never sure was right, and some off Vadis. I will have a look.

When lowering the car you need a adjustable panhard rod or make the standard panhard rod adjustable yourself.you need this to centralise the axle otherwise your axle will be pushed to the one side.also I have just purchased a ipd kit for my 940 saloon but I already have bilstens and 40mm drop springs on the car.

ian2000t · Jun 28th, 2012, 23:22

I have noticed the axle has moved over a little. Don't have the tools to make one though.

Are you running bilstein TC or HD shocks?

smithy · Jun 29th, 2012, 16:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by ian2000t

I have noticed the axle has moved over a little. Don't have the tools to make one though.

Are you running bilstein TC or HD shocks?

Tcs mate no probs at all

Jun 28th, 2012, 12:57	#14
ian2000t Premier Member Last Online: Oct 21st, 2023 20:25 Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Halesowen	Since chopping 1 & 1/4 and adding the Bilsteins the front is now much stiffer - doing the bounce test requires much more effort. Will get the measuring calipers out and let you know the wire thickness. They only have about 6 coils (before the chop). Only got one pic of them, before I chopped them: But, although you are right about stiffening the springs rather than fitting larger AR bars - you then end up with a much harsher ride, which I wouldn't want - stiffer yes, but bone shaking.. no thanks - I've got the Mini for that!! Re: Rear AR bar - at the moment I haven't got the ££ for the rear shocks, but I do have a rear AR bar from a saloon sat attached to my old 1041 axle in my parents garden, so it's not going to cost me anything to give it a try! __________________ 1990 Volvo 760 GLE D24TIC ZF22 - 16psi, more fuel, Monark 293 nozzles, 40mm lower, Bilstein TCs, 24/19 ARBs, full Polybushed front, H&R spacers, 17" Titans. Running Veg oil/petrol mix. Past: 1988 Volvo 740 B230E M46, 1991 Volvo 940 B230FB M47

Jun 28th, 2012, 14:38	#16
barkster1971 VOC Member Last Online: May 6th, 2024 13:23 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Swineshead/Salford	sump The thickest stock one was off the early 90's 960's which is 24mm. With it being a diesel I'd check to make sure it clears the sump as there's not a lot of room for error between the ARB and the sump! IPD do front and back 25mm ARB's but they'd be a bit pricey to get from the US of A. They also did a 28mm one at one point. An under chassis brace would help too. __________________ new engine! new car!

Jun 28th, 2012, 23:22	#19
ian2000t Premier Member Last Online: Oct 21st, 2023 20:25 Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Halesowen	I have noticed the axle has moved over a little. Don't have the tools to make one though. Are you running bilstein TC or HD shocks? __________________ 1990 Volvo 760 GLE D24TIC ZF22 - 16psi, more fuel, Monark 293 nozzles, 40mm lower, Bilstein TCs, 24/19 ARBs, full Polybushed front, H&R spacers, 17" Titans. Running Veg oil/petrol mix. Past: 1988 Volvo 740 B230E M46, 1991 Volvo 940 B230FB M47

Jun 28th, 2012, 17:15	#17
Steve940estate Steam Driven PC Owner. Last Online: Mar 4th, 2024 23:50 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Not sure.	I think you could go for slightly stiffer springs and not notice much difference. My car seemed to just try and trip over the outside wheel in a corner. The spring rate will increase slightly when you cut a coil off, you probably end up with something similar to what you get in a lowered spring kit. I have a list of wire diameters somewhere, some gained from aftermarket spring catalogues which I was never sure was right, and some off Vadis. I will have a look.

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