Managed to change cambelt.... - Page 3

pierremcalpine · Sep 12th, 2014, 14:37

Interestingly, I did not have much difficulty removing mine without the tool. To take it off, I just used a cheap 1/2" electric impact wrench. To re-tighten I made my own tool using some items purchased from a hardware store. See link below for pics (there are three). I did manage to bend one of the two screws that I purchased at the hardware store but I think that's because I used too many washers in behind them. The second time I tried it, I put two large bolts in behind each rod to raise just enough for the two pieces to be flat. I also had to cut a bit of material off the end of each to make sure that there was room for the 32mm socket in the middle.

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...=204876&page=2

flyingtech55 · Sep 12th, 2014, 14:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by pierremcalpine

Errrrhhh, you may want to re-read the whole thread as the answer to the first question is right in there. The answer is (apparently), no, you do not need to remove the crank bolt BUT you'll have more trouble confirming the timing mark in behind it (unless you are using the locking pin that goes into engine block behind the starter.

Point taken but....I did read the whole thread but I wanted to confirm that I could do it on my particular engine. The engines vary...the diesel is a Renault engine, the GDi is Mitsubishi engine and so on. That's why I specified my exact car/engine to make sure the comments applied to my car.

On your second point on the part I quoted, how do I access the hole for the locking pin? Do I need to remove the starter motor? I like locking pins...you know it's right.

TimR

pierremcalpine · Sep 12th, 2014, 15:16

Agreed. If you read the guide (the last one posted on page II of the link I provided above) part of the instructions will provide guidance on how/where to insert pin. Yes, it is behind the starter (at least on my petrol engine). As I understand it, it's a bit easier on the diesel. Not sure what the exact set-up is on your engine. Maybe someone can chime in?

Just re-checked your first post, I'm assuming your set-up will be similar to mine. If yours is NOT turbo then it's a bit easier.

A piece of advice when putting belt back on (as I had to do mine twice!). When the instructions for putting tension back on tensioner say "make sure that the belt is tight on the rhs side between the cam and the crank"...just make sure it is. What I did was use the pry bar to actually turn the crank just a touch clock-wise until I could tell that the belt no longer had any slack on rhs, and THEN I tightened the tensioner as per instructions. Afterwards I made sure to rest the crank back on the pin (as the pin only prevents movement of the crank in one direction only) before moving to next step in instructions.

patrick264 · Sep 14th, 2014, 15:41

That's one of my upcoming jobs _ cam and serpentine belts /never done either

Sep 12th, 2014, 14:37	#21
pierremcalpine Premier Member Last Online: Jan 3rd, 2024 14:43 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Toronto Canada	Interestingly, I did not have much difficulty removing mine without the tool. To take it off, I just used a cheap 1/2" electric impact wrench. To re-tighten I made my own tool using some items purchased from a hardware store. See link below for pics (there are three). I did manage to bend one of the two screws that I purchased at the hardware store but I think that's because I used too many washers in behind them. The second time I tried it, I put two large bolts in behind each rod to raise just enough for the two pieces to be flat. I also had to cut a bit of material off the end of each to make sure that there was room for the 32mm socket in the middle. http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...=204876&page=2 __________________ 2003 V40 1.9T B4204T4, 197,000miles (sold but alive!), 2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000miles, 2010 V70 3.2, 125,000miles, 2002 V70XC 2.4, 175,000miles Click here for my x40 and V70 P3 repair guides

Sep 12th, 2014, 15:16	#23
pierremcalpine Premier Member Last Online: Jan 3rd, 2024 14:43 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Toronto Canada	Agreed. If you read the guide (the last one posted on page II of the link I provided above) part of the instructions will provide guidance on how/where to insert pin. Yes, it is behind the starter (at least on my petrol engine). As I understand it, it's a bit easier on the diesel. Not sure what the exact set-up is on your engine. Maybe someone can chime in? Just re-checked your first post, I'm assuming your set-up will be similar to mine. If yours is NOT turbo then it's a bit easier. A piece of advice when putting belt back on (as I had to do mine twice!). When the instructions for putting tension back on tensioner say "make sure that the belt is tight on the rhs side between the cam and the crank"...just make sure it is. What I did was use the pry bar to actually turn the crank just a touch clock-wise until I could tell that the belt no longer had any slack on rhs, and THEN I tightened the tensioner as per instructions. Afterwards I made sure to rest the crank back on the pin (as the pin only prevents movement of the crank in one direction only) before moving to next step in instructions. __________________ 2003 V40 1.9T B4204T4, 197,000miles (sold but alive!), 2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000miles, 2010 V70 3.2, 125,000miles, 2002 V70XC 2.4, 175,000miles Click here for my x40 and V70 P3 repair guides Last edited by pierremcalpine; Sep 12th, 2014 at 15:23.

Sep 14th, 2014, 15:41	#24
patrick264 Senior Member Last Online: Apr 1st, 2018 08:04 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Edinburgh MK Northampton Rugby Coventry Glasgow	That's one of my upcoming jobs _ cam and serpentine belts /never done either

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