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Diesel Engines A forum dedicated to diesel engines fitted to Volvo cars. See the first post in this forum for a list of the diesel engines. |
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D5 issues, turbo adjustmentViews : 56745 Replies : 154Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 11th, 2011, 12:08 | #21 |
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Last Online: Sep 11th, 2023 14:58
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Rennes
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Hello Mike and all the others,
First of all I'd like to thank you Mike for your help and all the good pieces of advice by phone, I do really appreciate. I proceeded to all the check you told me to do as well as the softair charge hose consolidation. It helps, not completely but it does help so I ordered a brand new one and it should be there wednesday or thursday. Next step is to remove the turbo for a thorough cleaning and gaskets/seals replacement. I found affordable rebuilt kits for £70. Did anybody perform a variable nozzle turbo rebuilt, if so any advice would be appreciated. Thanks again Mike, it was really nice from you |
Sep 12th, 2011, 11:54 | #22 |
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Last Online: Oct 20th, 2021 11:41
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Location: Ramelton
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There are sellers on ebay supplying kits for £40 to £70 , I dont trust any of them . They appear to me to be selling cheap sets of parts they have put together from China and East Europe , the price of what they are selling should be £7 not £70 . The suppliers I would like to use but cannot because they will not sell directly to me are 1 Garrett - even if they would sell they charge nearly the price of a new turbo for a few bits and pieces . 2 Diesel Levante Italy - not original Garrett but good quality patten parts 3 Melett in Barnsley - supply to trade only . Try and find a good used turbo at a reasonable price , D5 turbos have sold on ebay for £50 complete so no point trying to repair one if you can get one at that price . Your turbo is worth repairing if its just the oil seals that have failed but if there is damage to the rotor blades then bin it . You will need some good quality torx type bits , not like the ones in photo which are made by Sealey with a lifetime guarantee and sheared off the first time I used them.
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Sep 12th, 2011, 19:11 | #23 |
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Last Online: Sep 11th, 2023 14:58
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Rennes
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Bernard 333, this is the main problem with "el cheapos" parts available now !
I take my camera today and record my vacuum gauge connected in line from the "out" port of the GCV to the Vacuum regulator and you can see the readings on the following video. I don't speak very clearly in the video but you should understand. However, values are printed in the comments window. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OB2-Bpe6lPM To compare to the figures you gave me Mike, results are setting higher, espacially @idle, I read 10-12hg. What do you think about how the needle reacts from idle to 2800rpm ? |
Sep 12th, 2011, 20:51 | #24 |
Lunatic from Wakefield
Last Online: Apr 16th, 2023 06:33
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: wakefield
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hi Fred.
i will do a test for you in the morning and a u tube video, looking at the way the vac is going it is going down and not up . compared to the figures i have posted so could you be loosing vac from there to the turbo mike
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2012 volvo xc90 Executive Buccaneer Bermuda 2021 |
Sep 12th, 2011, 23:47 | #25 |
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Last Online: Sep 11th, 2023 14:58
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Mike,
Thank you, I do appreciate. I post another vid tomorrow, I did a mistake with reconnecting the leaking engine mounts in the system, but figures are somewhat similar and the more speed the engine revs the less vacuum I have so the problem remains the same....GRRRRR !!!! Finally the turbo may be in good condition (it may !!). Aside from the vacuum pump, I can't see what could be the culprit, connections are limited to the minimum. Vacuum pump, hose to the TCG vacuum port, hose from the out port of TCG to the Turbo Vacuum Regulator and that is all. Hoses are leak free, TCG is new and TVR don't leak either ! Do you know if there is one or two vacuum source (compartment) in the vacuum pump, i.e. one for the brakes and another for the turbo vacuum system ? I look forward to see your video ! Thanks again Mike for your help... |
Sep 13th, 2011, 07:26 | #26 |
Lunatic from Wakefield
Last Online: Apr 16th, 2023 06:33
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: wakefield
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the vac pump splits provides for the brake servo and boost,so if you have a leak on the boost side or it is not providing enough vaccum it will not effect your brakes.have you connected in line from the vac pump to see what you are getting there
mike
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2012 volvo xc90 Executive Buccaneer Bermuda 2021 Last edited by outnumbered; Sep 13th, 2011 at 07:39. |
Sep 13th, 2011, 08:30 | #27 |
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Last Online: Sep 11th, 2023 14:58
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Location: Rennes
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Ok for the vacuum pump. Vacuum gauge reads 65hg @ any rpm
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Sep 13th, 2011, 09:04 | #28 |
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Last Online: Sep 11th, 2023 14:58
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Location: Rennes
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here's the new video, but nothing really changes from the previous one...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wswblEWt9bA |
Sep 13th, 2011, 10:59 | #29 |
Lunatic from Wakefield
Last Online: Apr 16th, 2023 06:33
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: wakefield
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this is a test of mine at the vac pump.you can here the turbo whistle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJQPcA3USAg mike
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2012 volvo xc90 Executive Buccaneer Bermuda 2021 Last edited by outnumbered; Sep 13th, 2011 at 11:02. |
Sep 13th, 2011, 11:13 | #30 |
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Last Online: Oct 20th, 2021 11:41
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Location: Ramelton
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I think a 1cm movement in the actuator rod is approximately the full range necessary to take the variable nozzle from closed to open and if you are getting this range of movement does it not indicate that the vacuum system and actuator is ok ? The variable nozzle mechanism is not likely to be jammed but of course as said already movement in the actuator rod will not show up the vanes sticking maybe when the engine is very hot but when you take the whole thing apart its a fairly loose fitting type of setup and looks fairly reliable to me . If the internal actuator ring breaks ( it moves the bones which are attached to the vanes ) this could jam the whole thing solid but then the actuator rod would hardly be able to move at all . You could also have a situation where the actuator ring is broken but is still able to move and open and close the vanes but obviously then not in the correct way , the only way to be sure about this is taking the turbo apart , I think I would look elsewhere for the problem before doing this . The variable nozzle turbos I have taken apart are from high mileage diesels and apart from a coating of very fine soot around the bones ( no soot on the vanes ) they were ok showing no sign of wear even though the rest of the turbo was goosed .
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