Dpf problem please help!

[jamiee89]

Hi all, I'm sorry if I haven't posted in the correct thread.

I have been having problems with the dpf on my Volvo C30( 2010) since last summer. The car went into limp mode and the engine management light came on. After taking it to several garages I was then told by the Volvo main dealer that it was a DPF blockage fault and that my only option was to get a new DPF, I was then also told that I could get it sonic cleaned.

I took it to another garage who took it out and said that they removed the blockage by getting the soot/ash to a high temperature. He could not see any issues with the dpf and said that it should be resolved. A month later the car went into limp mode (no warning light showing) he then changed my oil and again removed the blockage. Around a month later the car went into limp mode for a 3rd time. This time he said the egr valve was blocked and cleaned that. I have been taking the car on longer runs and this time this car has gone back into limp mode after 2/3 months (no warning lights showing).

I have phoned a few more garages but they can't seem to put their finger on the problem. From reading up I know that other things such as the egr valve could be faulty.
I have been quoted around £480 for a new filter and sensor. I don't want to pay this unless I know what the problem definitely is, which the garages aren't giving me the confidence that they know.

Please could I have some advice on what I should do/what the problem might be?

[skyship007]

Originally Posted by jamiee89

Hi all, I'm sorry if I haven't posted in the correct thread.

I have been having problems with the dpf on my Volvo C30( 2010) since last summer. The car went into limp mode and the engine management light came on. After taking it to several garages I was then told by the Volvo main dealer that it was a DPF blockage fault and that my only option was to get a new DPF, I was then also told that I could get it sonic cleaned.

I took it to another garage who took it out and said that they removed the blockage by getting the soot/ash to a high temperature. He could not see any issues with the dpf and said that it should be resolved. A month later the car went into limp mode (no warning light showing) he then changed my oil and again removed the blockage. Around a month later the car went into limp mode for a 3rd time. This time he said the egr valve was blocked and cleaned that. I have been taking the car on longer runs and this time this car has gone back into limp mode after 2/3 months (no warning lights showing).

I have phoned a few more garages but they can't seem to put their finger on the problem. From reading up I know that other things such as the egr valve could be faulty.
I have been quoted around £480 for a new filter and sensor. I don't want to pay this unless I know what the problem definitely is, which the garages aren't giving me the confidence that they know.

Please could I have some advice on what I should do/what the problem might be?

Did the Volvo stealer read the hidden fault codes to see if it's a DPF fault ??

The quote for a new DPF seems a real low one, although you will probably get what you pay for unless you can find a low time DPF from a scrap yard for peanuts.

Another option would be to sell your present car and buy a good used diesel Volvo that was made in 2004 or before.

If you are stuck with a DPF that uses fuel to burn clean, try an 0 or 5W40 full synthetic (Major brand only), Liqui Moly Diesel Purge to fill the fuel filter when it's replaced and half a can of LM Ceratec once it's out of warranty. Also change the oil only every 5 to 6000 miles max to avoid diesel fuel building up in the oil. No need to change the oil filter until max recommended interval unless you drive in a desert area!

[jamiee89]

Hi,

Thanks for your reply. Yes the fault code has shown as the dpf being blocked each time.

I think I will need to sell the car eventually as I keep having this problem. I would buy a new dpf but it's not guaranteed to resolve the issue... I'm kind of stuck.

[S40 Driver]

Originally Posted by jamiee89

Hi,

Thanks for your reply. Yes the fault code has shown as the dpf being blocked each time.

I think I will need to sell the car eventually as I keep having this problem. I would buy a new dpf but it's not guaranteed to resolve the issue... I'm kind of stuck.

Hi,

My car was showing the same problem and I removed the DPF and it was relatively clean- re-installed it. The problem in my situation was that the DPF fluid was empty and needed to be refilled and the level re-set to full, that cleared the problem.

Alternatively, is it possible that your EGR valve is blocked with soot and needs to be cleaned, that might give you the same symptoms.

Good luck

[tt82]

A DPF blockage is generally a symptom of a fault elsewhere, rather than being the fault itself!

The basics: Are you doing enough long high speed journeys to allow the DPF to regenerate? Really you want to do a 30-40 mile trip at a constant speed of 60mph+ once a week.

DPF related hardware: Does your car use the eolys additive? Is the the tank full and is it injecting correctly? Is the DPF pressure sensor faulty?

Now the fun starts: If it's none of the above, you car has an issue elsewhere. It could be a faulty EGR valve, faulty/leaky injectors, an air leak in the induction pipes, wrong grade of oil being used, leaking oil seals in the turbo or faulty glow plugs.

A good mechanic on hearing your history of issues should be able to go through that list to hopefully identify the issue. A 'parts fitter' will simply recommend replacing the DPF as that's what the computer says to do. A cowboy will recommend DPF removal.

[SwissXC90]

A clogged DPF can be caused by something as simple as a failed thermostat on the engine.

If the thermostat does not close, the engine will not get up to the normal 80° to 90° C operating temperature.
If it doesn't get to normal temperature, the car will not trigger a regen of the DPF.
This results in the DPF filling up until it becomes clogged.

Other reasons for clogged DPF are any oil burning: through worn turbo oil seals, worn rings or anything else causing oil to get into the engine combustion process.

Another reason is too rich a mixture, producing too much soot, normally due to an air leak cause by split or cracked charged air pipes.

You can rule out the thermostat if the car reaches normal operating temperature within 5km, and the temperature needle is bang in the middle of the temperature gauge

You can rule out oil burning if you never use oil and the oil level never decreases

You can rule out a over-rich combustion by monitoring the fuel trims in VIDA, analysing the exhaust gasses, or noting the MPG now compared to when the engine was known to be good.

At any rate, it would be good to use VIDA to get a proper diagnosis.