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Loosing Coolant and Gas Test V60 2013

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Old Feb 9th, 2019, 16:41   #1
Listerit
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Default Loosing Coolant and Gas Test V60 2013

Hi Lads,

I have a 2013 V60 1.6D Engine Type D4162T
Got a coolant light before christmas so topped it up straight away. And then the light started to appear close to every 100 miles worth of driving (when engine had got to decent temp) Checked over the hoses all look good nick and dry, checked around the side cant see any obvious leaks.

So decided to do a gas test with one of those chemical kits.

It was inconclusive until i got the coolant temp up to around 80 after a short drive and tested again to get gas properly through it. It then came back with yellow meaning exhaust gases detected - not ideal i know.

So what im asking is what is next steps, is there anything this can be bar the head ? Does this need head stripped and skimmed ? is this common on this engine type. Absolute pain only have the car a year.


Can i just change the Gasket itself without skim? Its not loosing oil

Last edited by Listerit; Feb 9th, 2019 at 16:45.
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Old Feb 10th, 2019, 15:07   #2
volvo for ever
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very common for head gaskets also water pumps leaking
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Old Feb 17th, 2019, 11:38   #3
Listerit
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Okay so I'm replacing the head gasket. Will get a head gasket kit and replace and seals provided in it.

As part of it going to replace the water pump and thermostat whilst I'm in there.

Replacing he head bolts too and the oil return valve

Is there any other things I'm missing whilst I have it open.
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Old Apr 1st, 2019, 12:35   #4
Listerit
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Hi Lads,

Thought i would come back and update on this. And give some insight into what i needed to do . Perhaps il come back and do a full write up on it but for now just give an outline of my problem and the parts tools i needed to resolve.

My Car
,12 Volvo V60
1.6 D2 or Eco Drive as its sometimes known
D4162t engine - thats the 85Kw not the early 80Kw engine (in some books it is called 84Kw)
86.5 K Miles

My Issue
The car was loosing small amounts of coolant every 120-160 Miles or so with the warning light popping up and the levels just below min on the overflow.

So i decided to check the coolant system for leaks, checking the hoses radiator and the overflow. Finally bleeding the system and then checking again. Problem returned and still had coolant loss.

So it was leak test time. ordered this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BT-2-BLOC...72.m2749.l2649
BT-2 BLOCK COMBUSTION LEAK TESTER KIT CO2 HEAD GASKET

Simple kit to work with, Just need to get engine up to temp, and then you should have some warmth and gases in the Overflow for the test, careful removing the overflow cap as it can shoot out if releasing gases (not good) I tested mine and sure enough there was Exhaust gases in the Overflow for the coolant. Bad news.

I figured that i just had a head gasket breach because the coolant loss was not very heavy and was not instantaneous. Head Gasket time.

Prices for the work were coming in at anything from £600 to £1000 depending on work, £600 were a bit on the dodgy end..

So i estimated the work to be around 15 hours myself and came in at just over 16 hours completed.

The parts cost me around £400 because i added some preventative maintenance items on too while it was all open.

Tools Needed

First, you will definitely need a decent array of tools, I have a large Halfords Advanced professional socket set 170 piece (great kit have had it for years) and various other war chest of assorted spanners and sockets. Generally speaking you should have duplicates of 10-15mm spanners and 8-13mm sockets for this job.

Torque Wrench capable of 10-100 Nm

Special tools
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11-PIECE-...72.m2749.l2649
(this is needed for holding the pulleys in position when loosing the Crankshaft bolt. Great tool, its universal and this is the cheapest i could find it. Makes a crap task easy)


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-...4fda4c4djtubwt
( Timing locking kit, this works on numerous engines, and you will probably only use 2 locking pins out of it for this particular job, if it all goes to plan)

https://www.banggood.com/12-inch-Dri...r_warehouse=CN
Angle Torque Gauge
(This is a fun tool, especially from when reading the Haynes Manual i found the head bolts needs to be final stage stretched to 260 Degrees. I thought it was around 180, but nope! That was kinda disconcerting especially with an aluminium head. So needless to say invaluable tool this)

Haynes Manual
Haynes VOLVO S40 & V50 DIESEL(07-13) 07- Workshop Manual
(this has all the torque Settings in it and other pointers and tips)


The Parts

These parts can be bought anywhere so dont take the links below as where you have to them. Mine was a mix of car parts places online and offline. And these parts match MY engine listed at the start of this thread.

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/elring-204843.html
ELRING (Brand) Bolt Kit, cylinder head M 11, 147mm
( These have to be replaced as they are stretched when fitted and a 1 time deal)

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/reinz-7748384.html
Victor Reinz (Brand) Gasket Set, cylinder head
( This kit contains all the rubber gaskets and seals from the upper part of the engine for manifolds, engine manifold (metal) and the oil exchanger and egr. Lots in it)

https://www.eurocarparts.com/en_ie/e...MaAkyQEALw_wcB
( This can be bought from Any Car Parts Place, But you will need a black Silicone RTV because the Rocker Cover and Cam Head do not have a off the shelf gasket, the existing one is silicone which needs to be scraped and cleaned off, and this gasket maker will replace the existing one. This is a weak point in this engine and is a usual weak point for oil leaks down the left hand side of your block)


*** The actual Head Gasket itself, This is the core of my problem. A crappy quality gasket that breached before its lifetime. All this for a cheap part. Before ordering this you have to know the gauge of your head gasket. They can all be different. Because each engine has different spec. The guage of the gasket is denoted on the gasket itself , The gasket has a sliver of a fin like blade that sticks out beyond the block. This fin has notches in it. and the notches tell you what gauge your gasket is. most are between 1 notch and 6 depending on the gauge. Problem with this engine is the fin of the gasket sticks out from the block at the front of the engine but under the Exhaust manifold and heat shields and brackets. You have half the engine out before you can see this fin. The link below is for a 3 Notch Gasket, I actually just guessed mine - Genuinely just guessed and ordered it. And on the day when i stripped it down there it was 3 notches! excellent! - Do not stick a different gauge Gasket in yours if the notches dont match then order the correct one!!!
https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/elring-7938757.html
Elring (Brand) Gasket, cylinder head


6.2 Litres of New Coolant



In addition to above i also wanted to do some preventative maintenance so decided to swap out the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Thermostat

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/gates-7898630.html
Gates(Brand) Water Pump & Timing Belt Set
( This contains, Belt, Water Pump, Tensionor pulley arm, pulley, Crankshaft Bolt)

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/feb...n-1890924.html
Febi Bilstein (Brand) Thermostat
(this comes with thermostat and gaskets)


Oil - 5W30 Fully Synt - takes 3.9 Litres
Oil Filter

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