B18 Rebuild Getting some oil through the journals

[sleek lemur]

Hi All,

My B18 rebuild is about finished. I don't have a car to put the engine into so am thinking of how to get it running. But before then, I just want to get some oil around the journals. I used plenty of sticky assembly lube. I think I can fit an oil pressure gauge to the mounting for the pressure warning light sender. My thoughts are to connect a starter motor and crank the engine with the plugs out to build up some pressure.

All comments/ideas/warnings appreciated!

[c1800]

I’m pretty sure there’s a method of driving the oil pump to circulate oil with the distributor out through that drive. Also I have no idea on this, but maybe the assembly lube is better for storage than oil, which might drain out over time. Others will chime in I’m sure.

[Laird Scooby]

I'd leave it on the assembly lube until you come to actually want/need to start it. Seal off the various openings to prevent corrosion, fit a set of spark plugs in to prevent the cylinders/pistons rusting, fit an oil pressure switch again to prevent corrosion and apply grease or oil to any surfaces you don't want to rust such as the flywheel - it can be cleaned off before you fit the clutch with a suitable degreaser and likewise removed from any other surfaces you don't want grease on but it's a lot easier to remove grease than it is to remove rust pits from the flywheel surface for example.

When you do come to start it, remove those plugs and dribble some oil into the bores, let it soak in for a while with the plugs refitted then remove them, put rags over the holes and spin it on the starter to eject the oil. This will help "wet" the rings to help them make a good seal so when you come to start it, you have a better chance of it firing fairly easily.

[sleek lemur]

Thanks LS and C. Yes, I was thinking that the assembly lube would keep everything in order....until a friend suggested that I spin the engine. I've given the inside of the block a good spray with light oil.

Interestingly, I haven't been able to add the flywheel, as the engine stand is blocking access. I soaked the rusty old thing for a few days in vinegar and it's come up grand!

Am currently rebuilding a pair of SUs, a dynamo and a starter motor and then I think I'll offer my engine for sale at the cost of parts and machining. Have enjoyed the process of rebuilding immensely. I had to work on my actual car the other day and it was horrible, lying on the floor, with all this stuff in the way!

The other alternative is to get a steering wheel and sit behind it, going "Brrmm Brmmmmm"

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by sleek lemur

Thanks LS and C. Yes, I was thinking that the assembly lube would keep everything in order....until a friend suggested that I spin the engine. I've given the inside of the block a good spray with light oil.

Interestingly, I haven't been able to add the flywheel, as the engine stand is blocking access. I soaked the rusty old thing for a few days in vinegar and it's come up grand!

Am currently rebuilding a pair of SUs, a dynamo and a starter motor and then I think I'll offer my engine for sale at the cost of parts and machining. Have enjoyed the process of rebuilding immensely. I had to work on my actual car the other day and it was horrible, lying on the floor, with all this stuff in the way!

The other alternative is to get a steering wheel and sit behind it, going "Brrmm Brmmmmm"

Just so i've understood this correctly, you've basically rebuilt the engine for the fun of it with no intention of fitting it to your car?

I think if i'd gone to that kind of trouble and expense, i would at least fit it to my car (then perhaps sell the old unit) and enjoy the fruits of my labour. Even if you fitted it so the car was mobile while you rebuilt the original engine for refitment and put a few miles on it to "prove" it and then refitted the original once rebuilt and sold it, at least you would have some use from it.

As for your friend suggesting turning it over, i'm guessing you know the crank turns freely as you would have used Plastigage to check/adjust the clearance on the mains and big ends as you did the rebuild?
If so, no real need to turn it over now and disperse that thick assembly lube.

[sleek lemur]

Hi LS,

Yes, built the engine just for fun. I managed to get hold of a B18A which had obviously been sitting around for a good few years. No, I don't have a car for it! My 1800E runs a bored and stroked engine on Webers so will not be doing an experimental swap! The B18A is now unleaded, with 9.5 C/R and a K cam. Also went to the trouble of re-bushing the rocker gear. Interestingly, the crank was still within tolerance (2 thou wear), so could use standard main bearings. It's quite tight, but turns nicely and nothing bashes into anything else, which is nice. I'm rebuilding a pair of SU's for it.

Just for the fun!

I will have to do something with it, but if I do sell it, it will probably only be so I can do another one. Or maybe a gearbox next time.

[142 Guy]

I am pretty much going to echo the advice of others.

There is a procedure by which you can remove the distributor and use an electric drill on slow speed to turn the oil pump for the purpose of priming the oil galleries. This procedure does require removing the distributor drive gear to allow you to access the oil pump. On my car, I have one of those reenforcing rings on the oil pump drive shaft which can make fitting the oil pump on to the drive gear a challenge. My concern on my engine would be getting the drive gear back into the oil pump if I ever tried this procedure. Note that this procedure of priming the oil galleries was only carried out prior to actual start up, not as a storage procedure.

I rebuilt my B20E and it sat for 3-4 years while I completed the chassis restoration. When I rebuilt the engine, I reassembled with something called Red Line assembly lube which is more like grease. I added some oil to the engine, sprayed oil into the cylinders and screwed in spark plugs. I sealed off the intake manifold, exhaust ports, oil filler and separator openings and coolant openings to prevent the engine from breathing air as the ambient temperature changed which could result in moisture entering the engine.

The assembly lube I used was quite thick. If you prime the engine with enough oil at enough pressure I think you would run the risk of washing out the assembly lube as it is designed to be washed out following a normal start up.

The assembly lube is designed to do two things
- prevent corrosion on the bearing surfaces during storage
- provide lubrication to the bearing surfaces in that very short period during initial start up before the oil galleries are pressurized.

If you have applied a heavy body assembly lube to the bearings, I would not attempt to pressurize the oil galleries until just before you attempt a first start on the engine. Personally, I would be inclined to turn the engine over a few times by hand (spark plugs out - wrench on the front pulley, a little oil added to the cylinders so the bores are not dry) if you want to prime the oil galleries before attempting a first start.

[sleek lemur]

Thanks 142. I used the same assy lube as you and plenty of it! I've filled the sump with oil and turned the engine a few revolutions with the crank nut, mainly when setting the valve clearances. You're right, the distributor drive was a real fiddle and I don't want to touch it!

All the relevant orifices are bunged or taped.

I'll probably offer it for sale, but I think I might have become too attached to it!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by sleek lemur

Hi LS,

Yes, built the engine just for fun. I managed to get hold of a B18A which had obviously been sitting around for a good few years. No, I don't have a car for it! My 1800E runs a bored and stroked engine on Webers so will not be doing an experimental swap! The B18A is now unleaded, with 9.5 C/R and a K cam. Also went to the trouble of re-bushing the rocker gear. Interestingly, the crank was still within tolerance (2 thou wear), so could use standard main bearings. It's quite tight, but turns nicely and nothing bashes into anything else, which is nice. I'm rebuilding a pair of SU's for it.

Just for the fun!

I will have to do something with it, but if I do sell it, it will probably only be so I can do another one. Or maybe a gearbox next time.

That sounds almost B18B spec, i get why you woudln't fit it to your 1800E, i'm guessing bored + stroked = ~2.3 now?

Maybe if you're attached to it find something to fit it into?

[sleek lemur]

Hi Dave, my 1800E is around 2,150cc. Built by Randall Engineering.

Yes, the B18B"+"is what I was aiming for. Just put up another post onthis forum of an Amazon that looks interesting. Might be the basis of a project for a sporty road car, with my rebuilt engine.

Then I'll have another B18 to rebuild.....