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1800S rev counter-not running

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Old May 30th, 2018, 11:37   #1
Groundes-Peace
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Default 1800S rev counter-not running

On a 1800S the rev counter has never worked.
What is the likely issue, and is it also likely it would need an overhaul?
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Old May 30th, 2018, 14:53   #2
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I assume that you have checked all the connections?
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Old Jun 1st, 2018, 20:45   #3
chrsvo
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could be the cable connecting the gauge to the little bevel gear coming off from the gearbox, could be the pin connecting the cable to the bevel gear, could be the pin connecting the bevel gear to the gearbox, could be a shot bevel gear (uncommon).

all parts are still available, start with exchanging the cable (which should be done after 50 years anyways), also the bevel gear is only connected to the gearbox by a union nut, all can be disassembled and checked quite easily.
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Old Jun 1st, 2018, 22:42   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrsvo View Post
could be the cable connecting the gauge to the little bevel gear coming off from the gearbox, could be the pin connecting the cable to the bevel gear, could be the pin connecting the bevel gear to the gearbox, could be a shot bevel gear (uncommon).

all parts are still available, start with exchanging the cable (which should be done after 50 years anyways), also the bevel gear is only connected to the gearbox by a union nut, all can be disassembled and checked quite easily.
This is about the rev counter which is electric and not the speedo.
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Old Jun 4th, 2018, 17:18   #5
MAMDaveM
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Default 1800S rev counter not working

Hi I also have the long standing problem of a non working Tacho in my 1963 P1800S.

A great place to start is to read Ron's excellent pages on the various types of Tacho's used in the P1800's,

http://www.sw-em.com/Smith's%20Tachometer.htm

My own one is a Generation 1 with a remote sender which I think is the reason it doesn't work. I recently purchased a modern replacement sender unit from Spiyda which I hope will resolve the problem, but I've not got around to fitting it yet.

https://www.spiyda.com/tachometer-electronics.html

There is I believe a Canadian firm which will repair the Generation 2 instruments with the electronics in the gauge rather than a remote sender.

http://www.volvosolutions.com/1800inst_tach2.html

Your first step is to determine which generation of gauge you have and Ron's web pages will help you do that. Please be aware that I think there is an oddity in the transition from P1800 to P1800s before the the introduction of the Generation 2 unit, see my post on this

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=274712

hope this helps

Dave
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Old Jun 5th, 2018, 00:44   #6
Mr Thirsty
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If your rev counter is a second generation unit (without the external sender) and you have the armoured cable coil you should have a wire that runs from the single post on the coil to the rev counter and then on to the distributor. The wire is continuous on this run and is looped around a contact on the back of the rev counter and held in place with a small plate and nut. This loop provides the pulse sent between the coil and dizzy which is picked up by the rev counter.

My car is a 1969 model 1800S with the B20B engine and the second generation rev counter. I have no idea how the first generation rev counters are wired up.

Next time I am at the garage I will take some photos of the wiring is this would help.

Happy motoring!

Alan
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Old Jun 5th, 2018, 02:20   #7
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FYI

Volvosolutions has been out of business for years.
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Old Jun 17th, 2018, 21:41   #8
Waddii
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These electronic rev counters are basic, but pretty old, electronic technology driving a standard 'meter' movement. I have just repaired mine. It was rather optimistic showing readings more than double what the speedo would suggest it should!

The biggest problem faced - by miles- is getting the jiblets out of the chrome housing and then back in again - I can't emphasise enough how much care and patience is needed, it must not be rushed else you will have a cracked or mangled chrome housing. They were not designed to be repaired. Unrolling and then re-rolling the rolled over chrome case needs a lot of movement in the metal and fatige failure stalks the hasty.

Before considering a repair I would check it is getting 12v on the supply tag (voltmeter on the rev counter's tag not the much easier to do disconnected wire...), check the case really is connected to ground (resistance meter connectd to rev counter case and to a really good metal chassis point) and that the ignition wire is wound one turn around the little connecting loop (shown in the photo in the link provided earlier by another member.)

Finally check the ignition wire is actually carrying the ignition coil primary current pulse and has not been bypassed (You know: a desperate engineer trying to solve an igniton problem made sure.....).

If all that is good your rev counter needs fixing. Oh, and buying a used one you'd be lucky to get one that hasn't got the 'over optimistic' problem, which will need a dismantle to fix anyway.

Good luck!
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