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Swirl flaps, worth fixing?

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Old Jun 14th, 2018, 22:57   #11
MissSpentYouth
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If that doesn't work then try a very small amount of easy start down the side of the intake manifold inlet, where that rubber joint is undo the jubilee clip and push a screw driver down the side to make a gap to squirt down.

Only use a very small amount the D5 really doesn't like easy start and will sound awful. But it might help to clear those valve seats.
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Old Jun 15th, 2018, 22:46   #12
Semnoz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parkl View Post
Hi gents.

I've did all the procedure, disconnected battery, new swirl flaps, Egr and throttle body cleaning, new valve cover gasket, changed new injector cooper washers.....etc

Now Volvo (Xc90 D5 185HP) doesnt start...just cranks....is there some air trapped?

Thx in advance!
Do you have any ODB diagnostic tools, e.g. Torque software app with bluetooth connector, or VIDA DICE ? It's worth checking you're getting adequate pressure in the high-pressure fuel lines. Have you checked for fuel leaking around the fuel rail nuts ?

Mine did take a total of about 10 seconds cranking before starting, following reassembly. This was one long crank (~8 seconds) with a 20 second pause, and it then started 2nd time (slightly lumpy for a couple of seconds and then perfect).
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Old Jun 16th, 2018, 23:54   #13
Parkl
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Hi and grazias for replys...

It started after couple attempts, no leaking at fuel lines,
but it blew valve cover gasket in front right corner and also injectors 3,4 and 5 are leaking....

Hmm, I'm gonna repeat the process w/t a new gasket and small sealant spots and new injector clamps, bolts and of course new cooper washers.

Hopefully it's gonna be ok, I 'm using torque spanner for 10Nm rocker cover and 13Nm injector clamps.
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Old Jun 17th, 2018, 21:51   #14
Semnoz
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Originally Posted by Parkl View Post
Hi and grazias for replys...

It started after couple attempts, no leaking at fuel lines,
but it blew valve cover gasket in front right corner and also injectors 3,4 and 5 are leaking....

Hmm, I'm gonna repeat the process w/t a new gasket and small sealant spots and new injector clamps, bolts and of course new cooper washers.

Hopefully it's gonna be ok, I 'm using torque spanner for 10Nm rocker cover and 13Nm injector clamps.
Shame to hear it didn't work out. I am a bit a confused though.

When you say front right corner, do you mean the corner where the swirl flap control arm sits? If so, there is a rubber grommet holding the swirl throttle axle in place that needs pushing down quite hard into the cylinder head.

Either way, there shouldn't be much air pressure inside the top cover. If anything, there should be suction of air. Maybe one of the intake valves isn't seating (as per previous suggestion) and combustion pressure is filling the top cover ? It must have taken a lot of pressure to flex that top cover. Was the gasket well seated in the top cover grooves? It should sit in place nicely and not fall out when you're fitting the top cover (no sealant needed).

I only replaced the copper injector washers when I did mine, but did thoroughly clean the injector seats in the cylinder head until they were shiny:

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Last edited by Semnoz; Jun 17th, 2018 at 21:55.
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Old Sep 27th, 2018, 10:53   #15
calama
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Hi Semnoz I am just in the middle of replacing my swirl flaps - looking at your other detail post on this but seems to be locked for reply for some reason - anyway just wondering how you cleaned your inlet ports? have the cover off and the ports are full off oily gunk, but presumably if you disturb too much it is going to fall into the cylinder or get stuck on the valve seat...is this a problem or I guess it just gets burnt off?? My flaps seemed to be stuck closed but didn't notice any problems with power or error codes. thanks for any advice.
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Old Sep 27th, 2018, 16:40   #16
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Hi - I am replacing my swirl flaps now...so would you suggest I don't try and remove any gunk from the inlet ports? being a clean freak I can't resist making everything shiny now I have made the effort to remove everthing. thanks
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Old Sep 27th, 2018, 16:55   #17
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Originally Posted by MissSpentYouth View Post
Hi Parkl,

I do these swirl flaps all the time and you have to be really careful not to drop any carbon deposits down the inlet manifold when you take the old flaps out.

It is very tempting to clean all the carbon deposits off around were the flaps sit but in doing so it is very easy to let bits drop down the intake. I image this is what you have done ....

Anyway these bits land up getting squished onto the valve seats and in effect they prevent a good gas tight seal and you cant generate good enough compression to start the engine it just turns over and over.

You will need to charge up your battery overnight and also get another car to jump start along side and any other jump packs you can lay your hands on as you want to get a good cranking speed

Eventually you will start to get it firing on one cylinder and then it will start up shortly afterwards.

Don't burn out your starter in the process if it wont start after a few minutes then let the starter cool for a half hour before trying again.
Hi - I am replacing my swirl flaps now...so would you suggest I don't try and remove any gunk from the inlet ports? being a clean freak I can't resist making everything shiny now I have made the effort to remove everthing. thanks
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Old Sep 28th, 2018, 17:38   #18
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Wouldnt a tow from a friend be the answer. (Unless you have an Automatic car) I have had to do this when changing a cylinder head after a broken Timing Belt destroyed the Cam Shaft and several Valves, and finding the battery had gone flat, it would save a lot of mucking about with booster batteries etc.

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Old Oct 26th, 2018, 00:35   #19
Ryan1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MissSpentYouth View Post
Hi Parkl,

I do these swirl flaps all the time and you have to be really careful not to drop any carbon deposits down the inlet manifold when you take the old flaps out.

It is very tempting to clean all the carbon deposits off around were the flaps sit but in doing so it is very easy to let bits drop down the intake. I image this is what you have done ....

Anyway these bits land up getting squished onto the valve seats and in effect they prevent a good gas tight seal and you cant generate good enough compression to start the engine it just turns over and over.

You will need to charge up your battery overnight and also get another car to jump start along side and any other jump packs you can lay your hands on as you want to get a good cranking speed

Eventually you will start to get it firing on one cylinder and then it will start up shortly afterwards.

Don't burn out your starter in the process if it wont start after a few minutes then let the starter cool for a half hour before trying again.
would this apply to me i have a 2006 v70 d5 only had it a few days and noticed that the actuator rod for the swirl flaps was hanging off so i reconnected it and now it wont start after cranking the actuator makes a buzzing noise as if its stuck and also buzzing from down on passenger side still wont start if i disconnect the arm hope you can help as im stuck lol
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Old Oct 26th, 2018, 06:14   #20
Stephen2015
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When I replaced my swirl flaps, I tape a small length of hose to the end of my Henry Hoover hose and used this to suck away the carbon while cleaning the inlet chambers. Again using the hoover to suck any carbon down the injectors sleeves. Taking your time, double checking everything is clean is well worth while. Turn the key to No2 for a couple of mins, and away she starts. Smiles all round.
By the way Henry Hoover is mine not the Mrs so no ass kicking there lol
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