Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > XC90 '02–'15 General

Notices

XC90 '02–'15 General Forum for the P2-platform XC90 model

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

Wheel Bearing Replacement

Views : 937

Replies : 16

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Jun 17th, 2018, 15:57   #1
Father Ted
Master Member
 

Last Online: Feb 28th, 2023 21:25
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Wirral
Default Wheel Bearing Replacement

So, working through my noises, I've come to the big one. Not the loudest noise, that was Drop Links, but the most worrying.
I have a droning noise which comes in at about 42mph, then goes, then comes back at about 62mph.
It's not the usual "wah - wah -wah" noise, just a steady drone.
However, I've come to the conclusion that it is the wheel bearing (even though I have no other symptoms).

Today I started the prep work. Bearing ordered (and new ABS ring). All bolts flooded with penetrating oil. Drive shaft knocked back a little, then tightened back up, just to prove that it wasn't seized in the hub. Found out I need to buy an 18mm socket.
I did notice that when I removed the bearing (centre) bolt that there was a lot of grease behind it. To my knowledge, this area should be dry. Does this prove that the bearing has failed?

I plan to remove the strut bolts to leave room to remove the drive shaft (I'd prefer to leave the ball joint alone), but they are heavily corroded. Does anyone know the size of these (was thinking of buying replacements to have to hand).
__________________
2003 V70 2.4SE Auto. Gone now.
2003 XC90 D5. Auto.
Father Ted is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17th, 2018, 17:17   #2
60041
Premier Member
 

Last Online: Yesterday 11:19
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: North Northumberland
Default

Sorry, I can’t tell you the size of the bolts, (from memory, I think they are M12, but I might be wrong) but I can confirm that the way you intend to do it is right; removing the 2 bolts holding the hub carrier to the strut gives plenty of room the slip the drive shaft out without having to disturb either the bottom joint or track rod end.
I was a little concerned about those bolts as well, but a little rattle from my air wrench and they can out cleanly and were quite fit for reuse.
The only problem I had with the job was parting the old bearing flange from the hub carrier; even when all 4 bolts were out, the rust held it solid and I had to resort to heat to shift it. Once I got the old bearing assembly off, it was only sa 5 minute job to clean up the carrier and bolt the new bearing assembly on.

You won’t believe the difference changing the bearing makes, for the first few miles after you have done it, you will think you have gone deaf, the silence is wonderful.
__________________
2018 V90CC D4, 2022 XC40
1940 Matchless G3, 1980 Moto Guzzi T3
Coming soon:- 1947Rover 14 P2
60041 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to 60041 For This Useful Post:
Old Jun 17th, 2018, 17:27   #3
owenfackrell
Premier Member
 

Last Online: Feb 4th, 2024 20:04
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: southampton
Default

I have had 2 of those bolts come of easily (drivers side) where as when I tried to undo the ones in the passenger side they both sheared at the nut. The bolts themselves came out easily at that point. I bought my replacements from Volvo. Not the cheapest I’m sure but you wasn’t sure of the size and length.
Maybe see if they are willing to take them back if you don’t need them.
owenfackrell is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to owenfackrell For This Useful Post:
Old Jun 17th, 2018, 19:53   #4
Father Ted
Master Member
 

Last Online: Feb 28th, 2023 21:25
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Wirral
Default

Thanks guys.
I think I will make those bolts my first job. There is a fixings specialist not far from me with a large stock of nuts and bolts. If it shears, I'll nip down there.
Volvo price seems a little high. I've seen them for a reasonable price on line, but don't want to buy unless I need them as I hope not to need them in future....
__________________
2003 V70 2.4SE Auto. Gone now.
2003 XC90 D5. Auto.
Father Ted is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 18th, 2018, 00:34   #5
laundryman
The Engineer
 

Last Online: Feb 26th, 2024 14:06
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Alton
Default

Have a look at the head of the bolts that have sheared and read the numbers on them to get the bolt with the correct tensile strength. ie 8.8, 9.6 etc.
laundryman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 18th, 2018, 09:45   #6
Tannaton
Bungling Amateur
 
Tannaton's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 11:17
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Beverley, East Yorks
Default

A couple of points....

The wheel bearing might not be worn, it might have just gone "dry" and hence the noise and the grease at the back. In either case you need to renew it. You should also grease the splines.

The strut to hub bolts and nuts are special items - intended to locate the hub precisely so when you re-assemble it the geometry is not affected. Note that the nut has a locking surface on it so often it's easier to undo the bolt rather than the nut. I forget the sizes but the nut is bigger than the bolt - 18mm and 21mm I *think*.

Sticking bolts apart - changing the bearing is usually easy... Much easier than on the FoMoCo derived chassis.
__________________
2011 XC90 D5 Executive
2003 C70 T5 GT
2012 Ford Ranger XL SC
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
1976 Massey Ferguson 135
Tannaton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 18th, 2018, 14:19   #7
oragex
Premier Member
 
oragex's Avatar
 

Last Online: Jul 26th, 2021 22:24
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Coldnada
Default

This is on the S60 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27a5YvRtVms

I don't replace the strut bolts. The only bolt you'll rather replace is the axle center bolt. Maybe just don't fully torque to the specs the other bolts (bearing, strut)

The axle bolt gets grease on it because it sits inside the CV joint. I'd try cleaning a little the threads inside the axle, and careful when torquing as grease on threads can lower the torque enormously (and stretch snap the bolt) - if it keeps feeling easy to torque stop, the bolt is stretching

Remember to test the bearing by hand after removing the brakes and axle, before removing the bearing bolts. The bearing may be stuck solidly inside the hub, I strongly advise having a three arm puller

Read about the camber setting, I push the top of the spindle fully for fully positive camber
__________________
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ECTts0FSVSOT_c
oragex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 18th, 2018, 21:46   #8
Father Ted
Master Member
 

Last Online: Feb 28th, 2023 21:25
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Wirral
Default

Thanks all.
I hadn't realised the centre bolt went all the way through. I thought the grease confirmed my suspicion that the bearing had gone. Still, I'll find out on Saturday.

I've never taken notice of the the strut bolts when I've had them off on other cars, thought they really were just to hold the two parts together! I'll mark this one up before I undo them. Hopefully, a good clean of threads, lots of penetrating oil and maybe a little heat should get them off intact.
__________________
2003 V70 2.4SE Auto. Gone now.
2003 XC90 D5. Auto.
Father Ted is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 18th, 2018, 22:47   #9
colinbos
2008 XC90 D5 SE
 

Last Online: Mar 28th, 2022 21:27
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Formby
Default

Why not try a mix of Acetone and ATF as your loosener ?

I hear nothing but fantastic results using this. There is a chemical reaction with the mix on the rust that breaks down any bond the rust has.
colinbos is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to colinbos For This Useful Post:
Old Jun 20th, 2018, 21:24   #10
Father Ted
Master Member
 

Last Online: Feb 28th, 2023 21:25
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Wirral
Default

Well, strut bolts didn't shear. But they piggin well fought all the way out!!!
So disc is off, strut is undone, drive shaft loose, but not out and bearing bolts thoroughly doused in Plusgas.
Going to borrow a cordless angle grinder if I can: just in case. But I'm all good to go on Saturday.

Just hope my diagnosis is right, or I'll be well cheesed off!
__________________
2003 V70 2.4SE Auto. Gone now.
2003 XC90 D5. Auto.
Father Ted is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 14:40.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.