c70 turbo

[keith58]

the turbo on the wifes c70 (2001) is stuck solid nothing is rotating in side is there a way to free it or is it a buy another turbo or time to scrap her (the car not the wife) just had hand brake cable and new shoes fitted and as im out of work i dont want to spend money i havnt got, cheers in advance.

[JohnM 855 T5R]

As long as the casing is intact, no cracks etc. you can buy a turbo cartridge or insert that contains all the rotating gubbins. Much much cheaper than a replacement turbo and can be fitted yourself with the turbo in-situ (a bit fiddly but doable). You will be looking for a 16t replacement cartridge which are freely available from turbo specialists and e-bay.

Regards
John

[JohnM 855 T5R]

Originally Posted by JohnM 855 T5R

You will be looking for a 16t replacement cartridge which are freely available from turbo specialists and e-bay.

I should have said he 16t assumes you have a T5. If you have the 2.5l low pressure turbo engine variant, check the plate on the turbo body for the turbo type. Same still applies regards buying a new cartridge.

Regards
John

[FredGraham]

There is a company in Stoke called Cats & Carbs who do refurbs/rebuilds on turbos, Tel 01782 392202 check outwebsite and give them a bell. Might of help.
Cheers
Fred

[Clan]

Originally Posted by keith58

the turbo on the wifes c70 (2001) is stuck solid nothing is rotating in side is there a way to free it or is it a buy another turbo or time to scrap her (the car not the wife) just had hand brake cable and new shoes fitted and as im out of work i dont want to spend money i havnt got, cheers in advance.

Don't just fit a new turbocharger and forget about it ,, the cause of failure has to be fixed first...

Turbochargers last indefinitely . they only fail when there is an external fault with the oil supply , or a solid object has been sucked in ,... also the oil drain tube could be blocked but that would make a lot of smoke ..

Did it fail instantly with no noise ? or been giving trouble a while?

[keith58]

Originally Posted by Clan

Don't just fit a new turbocharger and forget about it ,, the cause of failure has to be fixed first...

Turbochargers last indefinitely . they only fail when there is an external fault with the oil supply , or a solid object has been sucked in ,... also the oil drain tube could be blocked but that would make a lot of smoke ..

Did it fail instantly with no noise ? or been giving trouble a while?

wife didnt no it wasnt working its her car i have s40 i have a feeling it hasnt worked since she got it it never smoked but it had been stood for two years when she got it s

[Clan]

Originally Posted by keith58

wife didnt no it wasnt working its her car i have s40 i have a feeling it hasnt worked since she got it it never smoked but it had been stood for two years when she got it s

fit a new feed pipe and clean the drain pipe , also briefly start it to make sure oil gushes out the feed pipe .

[Shinsplintz 101]

https://www.dowleys.co.uk/blog/turbo...hat-can-i-do/#

Good article on turbos.

As Clan said - there will be an underlying reason for the failure of the turbo - most likely the result of poor maintenance (e.g. irregular services/ poor quality filters / crap oil) or abuse (e.g. switching off the car immediately after hard driving). It's a 20 year old car. It probably had at least one or two less than ideal owners.

If the CHRA (turbo core) is seized then it needs to be replaced our you're just driving an NA car, and is a simple enough job as pointed out by John.

If possible service the car before you start - clean good quality oil, oil filter an air filter as a minimum. This will help avoid damage to the new turbo gubbins.

Remove air intake, oil & coolant connections, loosen the central clamp and pull out the entire cold side housing, CHRA and all.

Replace CHRA with a new cartridge ( Melett are my preferred suppliers and very reasonably priced - around £140 ish for 16T -
https://www.melett.com/). You'll need a big set of circlip pliers for this.

Check the wastegate and recirculation valve are functional - need a vacuum tester, cheap of flea bay is fine - replace as required.

Give everything a damn good clean and pop it all back on the car. Ensure all feed pipework is clean, clear and change gaskets/oil seals/ vacuum lines & clamps as required - if in doubt then change it - they're cheap as chips.

Remove the king lead / disconnect coil packs and spin the car over for 10 to 15 sec (or more) to get oil flowing through the head and turbo. Reconnect ignition wires and start up. Leave to idle 20 min.

Check for leaks / smoke. If none then jobs a good'un.

Allow 1 easyish day for whole job if your a capable spanner man, and 200 quid in parts.

This method avoids having to unbolt the hot side, which is always a barsteward - access is awkward and the nuts are generally seized on due to the extreme heat through the manifold - doable but best avoided if possible!!


Have fun

[Familyman 90]

Originally Posted by JohnM 855 T5R

As long as the casing is intact, no cracks etc. you can buy a turbo cartridge or insert that contains all the rotating gubbins. Much much cheaper than a replacement turbo and can be fitted yourself with the turbo in-situ (a bit fiddly but doable). You will be looking for a 16t replacement cartridge which are freely available from turbo specialists and e-bay.

Regards
John

This can be done, but you still really need to pay someone to have it balanced. The cartridge alone can be done, but until its mounted up in the housing, everything is torqued and the assembly subject to the final clamping forces it's not ideal.

[Shinsplintz 101]

The CHRAs come pre balanced. They are snug fit in the cold side with a massive circlip to hold tight in position. I have done about 6 or 7 of these now with no bother whatsoever- and the first one has covered over 30k miles trouble free.

Just buy the CHRA from a reputable supplier and take your time.

Full Turbo refurbishment (remove & send away) is also a great option, but will cost 50- 100% more - whixh in the OP's case probably isn't viable. Also remember it won't remove the underlying issue that will have caused the failure so all the other ancillary bits need to be done too.