240 Fuel Pump Relay

[Derek UK]

Pink ECU 561

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo...h_561_ecu.html

[Nashsurecanpaint]

While trying to diagnose my problem I found and changed the fuel relay behind the glove box. If it turns out my PINK 561 isn't the problem, is there other relays that need to be checked/replaced? FYI I already replaced both pumps.

[rtbcomp]

There's just the one relay.

Please make sure the fuses and the holders 4 & 6 are ok before swapping the ECU, it could be an expensive mistake!

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Nashsurecanpaint

I can't wait to read this thread. I think this is the exact source of information I've been looking for, for the last month.

Originally Posted by Nashsurecanpaint

My ECU is a pink labled -561, will all the information cover my ECU? From all my diagnosis I believe my problem is in my ECU.

Hello. Maybe I missed a post somewhere? I am wondering what your problem is that you want to solve.

May I suggest that before you spend any [more] money doing anything to your car, that you start a new thread asking about whatever problems you are experiencing with your car.

Then you should receive some specific advice which might help you a lot more, and hopefully save you some money.

[Nashsurecanpaint]

My problem is/was, no power to the fuel pumps. The pumps ran fine when giving the fuse#4 12v.

I went to my pick and pull today and for $20 got a used ECU and fuel relay. Swapped out the ECUs and the car was running within minutes. Mine was a pink labled 561. Unfortunately my new/used ECU is also a pink 561, but it works.

[Stephen Edwin]

I have replaced my car's fuses 4 and 6 with inline blade fuses now. I think it is well worth doing in addition to cleaning up/keeping clean the fuseboard and using ceramic fuses. Fuse 4 and 6 are crucial, and blade fuses have an inherently better contact with their sockets compared to ceramic fuses. And the fuseboards are old and fatigued. Replacement of the fuseboard, perhaps with blade fuses, would be very nice.

It was easy to fit the inline fuseholders, thank you rtb. The following is long winded step by step in the hopes of not missing anything and maybe filling in any aspect that is making anyone wonder. And my posts are always pedestrian init. This is what I did:

Fuseholders. I bought and tried black stacking fuseholders as in the link in this thread above. I connected a wire and female connector to one of those fuseholders. When I pulled the wire and female connector off the fuseholder, it pulled the fuseholder connector out of the fuseholder. That was a shame.

I hope and suspect that the white type of connector from the same company and used by rtb may be better. The company has a £10 minimum order plus p&p plus VAT. So to buy just two or three it would be cheaper to buy the Durite 0.376.00 - currently on eBay at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DURITE-0-3...sAAOSwHLNZP777 That's the white one and is Durite so it should hopefully be ok.

I used different Durite fuseholders that I had on the shelf. 0-376-60 currently on eBay at e.g. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-Durite-...72.m2749.l2649

Connectors. I did not cut off any original connectors. Partly gut feeling. Partly in case those wires ever get reconnected to say a blade type fuseboard. Some of those connectors are not insulated and all connections had some bare metal on show in the new inline arrangement, so I used heat shrink tubing on all connections for the new inline fuseholders. Uninsulated connectors are fine on a fixed fuseboard but I think not fine for an inline fuse.

Fuse 4. I took the yellow and red input wire of fuse 4 and connected it to the new inline fuse 4. That wire is live when made live by the relay and ecu. As partly discusssed above, that power must not be taken from anywhere else. Including not from fuse 6. Because taking the power from anywhere other than the yellow and red input wire of the original fuse 4 would bypass the relay.

Because I was not cutting off any original connectors I took the output from the new inline fuse 4 in to two short lengths of 8 amp wire using one yellow fully insulated female connector. I used red male connectors to connect those wires to the yellow and red output (load) wires that go to the pumps.

Fuse 6. My 1992 2.0 SE fuse 6 is not connected electrically to any other fuse. So I took the red input wire from fuse 6 and connected it to the new inline fuse 6. So for my fuseboard there was no soldering needed.

For the output I plugged the other red (load) wire from fuse 6 to the load side of the new inline fuse 6.

Testing if the relay is faulty if it becomes necessary to do that. By cutting away a little heat shrink tubing, I can if necessary:

remove the input wire from the inline fuse 4, and connect the input wire from the new inline fuse 6 to the new inline fuse 4. Remember to disconnect that promptly after getting home/somewhere safe.

A cushti arrangement to do the usually recommended test if it becomes necessary.

Labelling. So. Would I remember these details particularly in persistent freezing rain &c. &c. I am labelling the wires with writing on paper covered and affixed with good transparent tape.

It really is easy. This sounds a lot of work becasue I'm slow and my explanation is pedestrian. I think a lot and ask a lot before doing anything. I'm continually double checking my work. Mainly because I'm living with the outcome of a mental breakdown.

But. The job is really easy, especially if you have a good ratchet crimping tool. If you haven't got one, you know you want one of those.


.

[rtbcomp]

Nice one.

I was surprised how easy it was, all the wires pulled back without modification except the new live wire between the old fusebox and the new.

I wondered about trying to replace the original fusebox with a blade type, but I don't think it's viable. The other fuses seem OK, it's just #6 which seems to get a bit hot & weaken.

[Stephen Edwin]

I'm sure someone has posted that they have replaced the fuseboard with blade typ fuseboard[s]. I asked them about protecting the new fuseboard[s] from passenger feet.

It sounds like a fair amount of work incluidng dealing with interconnecting some fuseholders. But it must be a great outcome.

I might make the stop lights fuse in to an inline blade fuse. That fuse is fairly critical. Otherwise I think I shall remain with the original fuseboard plus these two inline fuses, for the reason you have explained.


.

[deadken]

I'm glad to have this section as a resource. But, I'm sorry to say that the images no longer work (same goes for some of the links).

Perhaps if someone has the time / ability they can fix this?

[rtbcomp]

Apparently they disappeared during a server crash. If you search through my posts I'm pretty sure I re-posted them