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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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1967 - P130 restoration in Norway.Views : 3639 Replies : 58Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 22nd, 2019, 21:30 | #21 | |
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Last Online: Sep 24th, 2019 18:49
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Location: Norway
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Here is a great guy doing similar work as I most likely have to go through :[YOUTUBE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mj62FPs4neA [/YOUTUBE] Guess this might be the area I have to start when the car comes back from media blasting.. :-) Last edited by AmazonViking; Apr 22nd, 2019 at 22:01. Reason: Trying to get the Youtube video to show in post.. |
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Apr 22nd, 2019, 22:30 | #22 |
Trader Volvo in my veins
Last Online: Yesterday 22:41
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Location: Anglesey
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you can buy new floor pans
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Apr 23rd, 2019, 09:03 | #23 | |
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Last Online: Nov 29th, 2020 00:42
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Location: Newton Abbot
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A picture below of the crap I cut out. The guy on youtube's video was invaluable, watched it loads of times before I started. Cheers Tail |
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Apr 23rd, 2019, 09:13 | #24 |
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Last Online: Sep 24th, 2019 18:49
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Thanks ClassicsSw.
I'm aware of this and I need to get most likely all 4 of them. The ideas is to cut out parts of the new panel and weld in on the rotten sections. If the whole section would go or not is something I would judge when the car has been blasted. The thing is that there is so many different floor panels out there in such a different price range that I have problems choosing which to get... |
Apr 23rd, 2019, 09:19 | #25 | |
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Last Online: Sep 24th, 2019 18:49
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My fuel tank frame is also - luckily - good so I would patch up similar to you. Mine is however more rotten where it spreads out on the side of the tank as well. So in all practical terms, the floor needs to go, the double rear panels need to go - including the external and the internal support panel. The problem I'm facing is what to do first - where do I start. First idea is to make a new floor section with a "lip" (don't know the propper English name ) which should be attached to the external rear panel so I know the floor would fit. Then cut out the rear section as the guy on the video to make it fit the new floor. Then weld in the inner support section where the trunk lid locks... I'm hoping the curved outer section would be savable after blasting but have my doubts. :-( I'll shoot some more pics of this section when the blasting has been done. |
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Apr 23rd, 2019, 17:30 | #26 |
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Well if you remove the rear panel both parts it did make it easier for me to sort out the floor, it makes it a little more complicated because of the slight radius to make the lip that the new rear panel is welded to but a cut or two in the right place makes it do-able, some pics below of how much easier it will be with the old rear panel removed, the new panel lines up ok, the rear lights fit ok and the boot lid sits nice and centered with the same gap all the way round so i am happy if it keeps the old girl on the road for a few more years.
Tail |
Apr 23rd, 2019, 19:11 | #27 | |
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I might go the same route then. My biggest fear is to weld the rear sectiion up and not get the lid lined up. Currently at an airport-would get back to you later. Thanks for the pics, would study them thouroughly later :-) Kent |
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Apr 25th, 2019, 07:34 | #28 | |
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I considered doing the opposite, leaving the rear panel in place to have something to make a new floor panel - with lip - to match the rear. If that outer ring is savable I would do the same as you :-) I do however think that I have much more rott to take care of so in worst case where the floor is completely gone, I would consider going back to my original plan. Thx |
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Apr 28th, 2019, 22:53 | #29 |
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I had the panels left side of the boot to sort out as well but whoever did the Amazon before me fitted the spare wheel well about half an inch too high because what they did was weld in new steel around the wheel well over the top of the rusty stuff underneath then used loads of filler. It looks ok, never going to win any prizes but its all new steel
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Apr 29th, 2019, 22:32 | #30 | |
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